Tasted in Morgon with Jean-Marc Burgaud, 13 February 2024.
Domaine Jean-Marc Burgaud
La Côte du Py
69910 Villié-Morgon
Tel: +33 4 74 69 16 10
www.jean-marc-burgaud.com
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More reports with Domaine Jean-Marc Burgaud
Jean-Marc on 2023:
“The volume was about the same in 23 as in 22 – and similar quality too – about 50 hl/ha each year.”
Jean-Marc on 2022:
“Magnificent – I think that everything is there for this vintage! We didn’t really suffer from the dryness – Cote du Py is more dense and rich in the direction of 2020 but our other areas much less so – particularly where there was some clay in the soil. The Beaujolais Lantignie took up a little rain – there was more volume but still 13° so I’m very happy. It was the sandy soils that suffered more in 22 but here we got some rain at the right moments – we had the luck of having some small rains just at the right moment so the vines never really suffered. We had probably more stress than the vines! And in this vintage we were not hit by the frost so no complaints!”
The wines…
Another beautiful range from Jean-Marc – you could buy the wines blind and be completely happy – so many are great or touching on greatness…
“DIAMs for BJ Lantignié and the blanc the rest are all ‘natural’ cork:”
Just 7 days of maceration. A single bottling from this 4.3 ha of vines. Bottled in April – all tank elevage.
Good width, great depth of aroma – slowly more floral and precise. Mouth-filling, energetic – love the precision and clarity of this – a beautiful Lantigné – bravo!
2022 Morgon Grand Cras
Just under 3 hectares of vines. Here is clay, it’s a harder soil to work, a little limestone in the mix too, part is less sunny, the last was very granitic. Started with these vines in 2006 – harder to work as more clay – ‘I often find the tannins less noble so have shorter macerations than Côte du Py with more remontage – I’m happier today but it’s still a wine that brings its reward if you have more patience – the 2017 was great but only after 2 years in bottle.’ Bottled since start of June.
Fine and wide aroma – precision again – what a great invitation! Hmm – more concentration – but not soft – this wine melts over the palate – can these so accessible wines be Morgon? Gorgeous wine.
2022 Morgon Les Charmes
1 ha of 1932 vines, that were in family fermage but managed to buy outright from his cousin in 2022. In the west of Morgon towards Regnié but a different soil, the latest harvested parcel at the domaine and usually picked 1 week later due to sitting in a cooler current of air. Bottled the same tine – ‘a smaller yield so more ‘construction.’’
These aromas are a little more direct – almost a rose perfume. Extra width, more architectural, more juicy too. More Morgon style to this structure but there is nothing austere here. I love this finish – gorgeous and slowly fading – beautiful wine!
The same age vines as the Charmes – from 1932. Second vintage for this cuvée.
This nose is the most open but also quite airy in style – the air bringing more and more perfume. Clarity, fluidity, precision, architecture – perfect Morgon – bravo – oh – it’s also completely delicious – Yes!
‘There’s over 6 hectares of vines represented here – with context, richness and depth, and the touch of fruit – each parcel providing the different component – vines 45-65 yo old – I’m lucky to have them!’ This bottled at the end of July
The nose here has a similar width plus a little more depth. More mouth-filling wine of extra energy and a floral perfume mingling in the fruit flavours. The middle to finishing flavour have even another level over the Corcelettes!!
2022 Morgon Côte du Py Javernières
This lower on the slope. All large-format barrels for elevage, older barrels. 12 months in barrel then another 4 in tank before the bottling in January.
A fine and pure nose of width and very faint spice – a hint of smoke too. Cool and broad, energetic, properly structured and modestly tannic – but such fluidity of flavour – intensity too – I would drink all the others today – this I would wait at least a few months 😉 It’s excellent!
This from the summit of the hill – near the cross of Py – all the rest of the elevage is exactly the same as the last – to the day, only the origin is different, even the vines were planted in the same year – 1965. Same elevage and bottling as the previous wine.
A soft, faintly spiced width of aroma – here I don’t see the smoke but I do see a faint creaminess of the barrel. Hmm, another small step in energy and open architecture – still with a vivid intensity – I see the oak a little in this middle and finishing flavour too – again slightly creamy – so I’d wait a little longer to drink this than the Javernières – but neither are on the market yet – so no issues! This clearly has the potential for great wine!
And le white:
2022 Beaujolais Villages Lantignié Blanc
Vines planted in 2010, in Lantignié – a yellow clay hillside towards Regnié. ‘It was all gamay and producing not very much when I bought it in 1996. It’s 40% clay in the soil here so I decided to plant some chardonnay. Bottled in March.
Airy – fresh – not too ripe – that’s a nice invitation. Hmm, that’s really very good – mobile, mineral – good energy with being effervescent. A fine finish – I would take another glass!