Tasted in Romanèche-Thorins with Emeric Gaucher & Adrien Dubeouf, 26 February 2024.
Vins Georges Duboeuf
208 rue de Lancié
71570 Romanèche-Thorins
Tel: +33 3 85 35 34 20
www.duboeuf.com
More reports with Maison Georges Duboeuf
Emeric & Adrien on 2023:
“Sales are a battle right now, despite a quality that we’ve rarely seen before. 2023 brought a little hail and dryness but fine quality.”
Emeric & Adrien on 2022:
“Lower volume this year due to the dryness – which was completely opposite to 2021 where it rained nearly every second day! We harvested early in the morning when possible, getting the grapes in the tanks as quickly as possible – nothing stopped fermenting but we had to pilot the fermentations and also to avoid brett.”
The wines…
The range is excellent – many requiring a year or two of patience before first opening – but there a few great wines dotted around this selection too – I fell in love with the Chénas!!
2022 Beaujolais – Fleur
Classic, floral – a beautiful cliché Beaujolais nose. In the mouth plenty of scale, layers of flavour, some finishing tannin too – a little of the bubblegum flavour very completely classic…
2022 Beaujolais Villages Fleur
Slightly darker width of fruit. Also mouth-filling but here with a bit more structure and much more finishing length – less overt tannin and bitters here. Delicious wine…
2022 Brouilly – Fleur
Good width and a little darker fresh fruit. Dark in the mouth too – riper but not cooked also with a lot more structure and finishing bitters – finer textured than the Beaujolais though – slowly fading with a little more perfume – that’s very long…
2022 Brouilly Pisse Vieille
There are 5 new wines with the lieu-dit designations…
Higher toned and really floral perfumed. Really mouth-filling, darker fruit like the last but with an extra combination of intensity and fluidity. A little drying in the finish – wait 1-2 years.
2022 Chiroubles – Fleur
Higher red tones – just a little wider and more floral-inclined than the PV. Large scale with a lovely juicy energy – still a serious wine in the lovely finishing flavour – maybe only wait a year for this one- it’s completely delicious.
2022 Morgon – Fleur
Plenty of high-toned freshness. Structural, slightly drying tannin – but without grain – also lots of juicy dark fruit – a touch of licorice here. A keeper – back to 2 years here.
2022 Morgon Côte du Py
A more vertical nose – not fully expressive today. A wine of scale, of mouth-filling volume – also with a structure and dryness of tannin – more velour this time. More concentrated and with more generosity than the previous. Black fruit, wait 3 years…
2022 Fleurie – Fleur
Not a large-scale nose – but what a beautifully perfumed nose! Large scale in the mouth – a big wine but one that’s very mouth-watering. There’s some dryness again to the grainless tannin that frames the flavour – but more supple and less dry than either of the the Morgons. Large and long in the finish – there’s power here.
2022 Fleurie La Madone
Each of these climat wines comes from a single vigneron
Ooh, that’s good – a more direct but still perfumed nose. Ooh, a wine that melts over the palate – what finishing scale – it really is sooo delicious but maybe with a hint lower degree would be the clarity of a great wine – I anyway find it excellent !!
A panoramic nose and perfumed too – yes. Supple, ultra silky, more fluid – dark with some finishing bitters but just fabulously textured with a small generosity and a fabulously rolling finish. Maybe a little warm but potentially a great wine…
2022 Juliénas – Fleur
A slightly more direct floral note – not large but precise. Mouth-filling – framed with a tiny grain of tannin but actually less drying. A simply beautiful, contemplative, clean, floral-infused finish. Excellent wine…
2022 Juliénas Château des Capitains
A deep nose of redder, vibrant fruit. Extra-wide – and, again, beautifully textured. I find the first flavours slightly over the top but the fading finish is another gorgeous one – in this case a little more mineral with darker fruit than the Juliénas Fleur. Yum!
2022 St.Amour – Fleur
Perfumed an airy – it’s a lovely introduction. Open – this has good scale and a proper structure, faintly drying but with out grain. Elegant to start, quite elegant to finish – some power to tame in the middle.
A little more direct and clean but still with a lovely perfume. Scale and concentration balanced by a fluid delivery with lovely energy. Long, beautifully constructed wine – that could be a great one.
Ooh – this wine has scale and concentration and energy and perfume – and that’s just the nose! Concentrated a texture that starts silky and turns to velour as the tannin comes to the fore, finishing darkly fruited and complex and clean – that’s a great one.
2022 Moulin à Vent – Fleur
Whilst there’s width here, this is still a tighter nose. I like the more direct style here, I also like the grainless tannin that brings a small drag to the texture. The finish is strong, powerful and full of finishing bitters – but it’s so very hard to follow the previous wine – it’s either tighter or it’s forced to be after the last – still an excellent wine though.