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Romanée-Conti 28 April 2025

Vosne-Romanée – the 2024 boundary changes …

Right: Romanée-Conti 28 April 2025Romanée-Conti 28 April 2025

A few weeks ago, I read an article that stated ‘it appears the Vosne-Romanée appellation zone has been expanded, incorporating an additional 30 parcels of vineyard into the appellation. In total, these blocks constitute three hectares (7.4 acres).

Seemingly, this was a story that had slipped through the net but it was hard to get to the bottom of what was involved. I had to enlist the help of ‘Burgundy Wines,’ to get to the information – and it took them some time too, despite that I was not the only one asking for clarification.

It seems that the actual situation is much more modest than the quote (above) might suggest. I’ve slightly modified the words of their researches, only to make the situation a little more concise:

Whilst the number of ‘modified’ plots is indeed notable — around thirty in total — the actual changes involve only very small areas, often no more than a few rows of vines.
This is part of a broader clean-up of the appellation boundaries which, for Vosne-Romanée, was completed at the end of 2024.
The changes were brought about using a ‘simplified mechanism’ that allows for minor adjustments without triggering a national ‘opposition process.’
Other appellations have already used, or are in the process of using, this same mechanism. These updates typically occur every 10, 15, or 20 years to reflect the evolving realities on the ground.

2024 Changes to Vosne-Romanée Boundaries

Four Premier Cru Climats are included in these adjustments:
1. In Vosne-Romanée:
Aux Brûlées is now 4.6311 ha from 4.5408 ha
Aux Raignots/Reignots is now 1.6422 ha from 1.6295 ha
Les Petits Monts is now 3.7283 ha from 3.6803 ha
2. In Flagey-Echezeaux:
Les Beaux Monts is now 7.5628 ha from 7.0589 ha – the largest change
The 4.4514 ha of Beaux Monts in Vosne-Romanée is unchanged

I’ve known for some time that some producers with vines in Beaux Monts have not been declaring part of their production as 1er cru – this should change in 2025. And to underline, there have been no changes made to the boundaries of the Grand Crus.

Beaujolais - March 2025

March Report – more 2023 Beaujolais plus a dozen from the Côte d’Or

Right: Beaujolais 15 March 2025…Beaujolais - March 2025

A new report with 64 producers and, mainly, their 2023s…

Two more weeks of visits to taste 2023 Beaujolais – weeks 3 & 4 of 4 weeks planned – and the others are a nice dozen of Côte d’Or producers – as I slowly start to return my gaze to this part of Burgundy. My April report will see a return to Chablis – I’ve only done half of my normal list, so far. And a few more visits form the core of the regions the Côte d’Or down to Mâcon…

For my best addresses in Beaujolais, see in my slightly updated summary in my February 2025 report

That’s 304 domaines already visited to taste 2023s, and 289 already online 😉

mark-gough

Very sad news …

Last weekend, we lost Marko de Morey – a long-time contributor to Burgundy Report.

His acerbic observations on the harvests – at multiple domaines over multiple years – made him a great favourite here.

Mark was a friend, so I am shocked to learn he has left us.

I fondly remember his combative personality – which I’m sure was apparent to all in his writings – but also his love of Burgundy – not just the wines but the place and the people too.

For many well-known names in the UK (Burgundy) wine trade, he was also their Bank Manager – retired 3-4 years now – his ire about some of those traders that he helped out, who would in later years no-longer allocate him a bottle of Roumier could light up a room and warm your hands with its incandescence – and that was also the fun of Mark – as, to cool off, we sipped something from Lafon instead 🙂

I will miss him dearly…

Beaujolais 07 February 2023...

2023 Beaujolais – and more 2023 Chablis

Beaujolais 07 February 2023...
Beaujolais 07 February 2023…

I’m happy to let you know that my latest report went online yesterday – a report of visits to over 70 domaines.

The bulk of those visits are covering the first two weeks of my visits to taste 2023 Beaujolais – 2 of 4 weeks in Beaujolais – and the others a week in Chablis. My March report will have 2 more weeks of Beaujolais and at least a dozen great domaines from the Côte d’Or, while April and May will see more visits in Chablis as, so far, I’ve only really done half of my normal visits…

Back to Beaujolais – it will be a crowd-pleasing vintage – missing many of the highs of 2022 but also the lows – I describe 2023 as having less amplitude than 2022 but on average it’s more attractive young.

For my best addresses, see in my February 2025 report

Chablis Grand Cru - July 2023

2023 Chablis, Report Online:

Chablis Grand Cru - July 2023
Chablis Grand Cru – July 2023

For a vintage finishing in ‘3’ – i.e. 2023 – the vigneron(ne)s are very happy; quantity together with quality has been their mantra.

Given what was to follow in 2024, they are particularly thankful for the production volume of 2023. This was one of the largest recorded volumes, in places exceeding the volume produced in 2018. The authorised volumes were at a maximum – more in the case of grand crus – plus an additional ‘reserve’ (the VCI) to be used if times of need were to arrive – as they surely did in 2024.

I can confirm that practically every 2023 wine I tasted in the region – 65 domaines in my first wave of visits between January and February 2025 – was delicious. But I was usually left asking myself ‘But is this really Chablis?’ I typically felt that these were wines from planet chardonnay – compared to 2014s, 2017s, 2021s and even the 2024s in waiting, which clearly came from planet Chablis.

In my first week of visits, I found just 3 domaines where my eyes lit up as I tasted the wines.

It’s a vintage that showcases the grape variety more than ‘place.’ So, if you really want Chablis, you will need my list of ‘best addresses’ – in my January 2025 report

Harvest 2023...

The December 2024 Burgundy-Report – the Côte d’Or part 3

The 2023 harvestThe December 2024 issue of Burgundy-Report

The 2023 Burgundy Vintage:
Part 3 of 3 in the Côte d’Or
Right: Beaune – Sept 2023 harvesting…

This report comprises 34 reports of visits from December 2024 plus a link to my summary of the Côte d’Or vintage from the October report. That’s 114 domaines from the Côte d’Or now online. The 2023 visits in Chablis will be online in just a couple of weeks – only my summary needs to penned 🙂

As usual, from each producer a few words on their vintage campaigns (2023 & 2024) and, as always, those extra-special wines that are worth a special search are highlighted for you.

December’s part 3 here: The Côte d’Or reports with 34 additional domaines…

Latest Burgundy Reports

03-2025

Beaujolais - March 2025

The March 2025 issue of Burgundy-Report:
1. 2023 Beaujolais – 52 more producers to add to the 51 domaines visited in February 2025 …
2. 2023 Côte d'Or – 12 domaines As I slowly start to get my teeth back into the region

If you need it, the slightly updated 2023 Beaujolais Summary Report from February

Beaujolais: The New Producers here:
Champ de la Croix – 2023
Julien Mathon – 2023
L’Oiseau de Passage – 2023
Obora – 2023
Perrusset – 2023

Back again, roughly alphabetically:
Anita – 2023
Anne-Sophie Dubois + Sylvain Martel – 2023
Anthony Charvet – 2023
Antoine Sunier – 2023
Château de La Chaize – 2023
Château de l’Eclair – 2023
Château de Pougelon – 2023
Château des Jacques – 2023
Château des Vergers – 2023
Château du Basty – 2023
Château Thivin – 2023
Chermette – 2023
Clos de Mez (2025 visit)
Clos du Vieux Bourg – 2023
David Béroujon – 2023
de Colette – 2023
de Colonat – 2023
des Marrans – 2023
Elisa Guérin – 2023
Fabien Collonge – 2023
Frédéric Berne – 2023
Georges Duboeuf – 2023
Gilles Paris – 2023
Grégoire Hoppenot – 2023
Jean Foillard & Alex Foillard – 2023
Jean-Marc Burgaud – 2023
Joncy – 2023
Jules Desjourneys (whites) – 2022
Julien Duport – 2023
Julien Sunier – 2023
Kevin ‘Kéké’ Descombes – 2023
l’Arbuissonnière – 2023
Labruyère – 2023
Lapierre – 2023
Laurent Martray – 2023
Le Nid – 2023
Les Roches Bleues – 2023
Louis-Claude Desvignes – 2023
Manoir du Carra Sambardier – 2023
Mee Godard – 2023
Mommessin – 2023
Nadège & Emmanuel Fellot – 2023
Olivier Pezenneau – 2023
Paul Janin & Fils – 2023
Pauline Passot – La Grosse Pierre – 2023
Striffling – 2023
Yohan Lardy – 2023

Côte d'Or, roughly alphabetically:
Bertagna – 2023
Boursot Père et Fils – 2023
de l’Arlot – 2023
Elodie Roy – 2023
Harmand-Geoffroy – 2023
Henri Gouges – 2023
Hubert Lignier – 2023
Lucien Muzard & Fils – 2023
Perrot-Minot – 2023
Rossignol-Trapet – 2023
Thibault Liger-Belair – 2023
Vincent Ledy – 2023

02-2025

Fleurie 27-Feb-2023

The February 2025 issue of Burgundy-Report:
2023 Beaujolais – 51 Domaines visited in February 2025. 50 more will come in the March Report !!
2023 Chablis – 21 more domaines visited in February to add to those from January…

2023 Beaujolais Summary Report:
2023 Beaujolais: An easy crowd-pleaser…

The Producers – New here:
Agamy – 2023
Antoine & Audrey Viland – 2023
Bonnet Cotton – 2023
JP Rivière – 2023
Julien Aucagne – 2023

The Producers – Back again, roughly alphabetically:
Anthony Perol – 2023
Aurélie & Fabien Romany – 2023
Bertrand – 2023
Botheland – Laurence & Rémi Dufaitre – 2023
Celia & David Large – 2023
Chamonard – 2023
Chapel – 2023
Château Bonnet – 2023
Château Cambon – 2023
Château des Bachelards – 2023
Château du Moulin-à-Vent & Roc des Boutires – 2023
Château Poncié – 2023
Chignard – 2023
Claire & Fabien Chasselay – 2023
Clos de la Roilette – 2023
Daniel Bouland – 2023
David-Beaupère – 2023
de Boischampt – 2023
de La Grand’Cour – 2023
de la Madone – Frères Bérerd – 2023
de la Milleranche – 2023
de Valma – 2023
des 2 Fontaines – 2023
des Nugues – 2023
des Prévelières – 2023
des Terres Dorées – 2023
Dupré Goujon – 2023
Girin – 2023
Jean-Claude Lapalu – 2023
Jean-Luc Longère – 2023
Jules Desjourneys (reds) – 2022
Laurent Gauthier – 2023
Laurent Tribut – 2023
Les Capreoles – 2023
Michel & Sylvain Tête – 2023
Mont Bessay – 2023
Pascal Aufranc – 2023
Philippe Viet – 2023
Raphaël Chopin – 2023
Richard Rottiers – 2023
Robert Perroud – 2023
Romanesca – 2023
Saint-Cyr – 2022 (2)
Tano Péchard – 2023
Thillardon – 2023
Thomas Rivier – 2023

More 2023 Chablis:
47°N3°E – 2023
Agnes & Didier Dauvissat – 2023
Camille & Laurent Schaller – 2023
Camille Besson – 2023
Daniel Seguinot & Filles – 2023
Daniel, Sébastien & Vincent Dampt – 2023
des Trois V – 2023
Eléonore Moreau – Domaine des Pérégrins – 2023
Fourrey & Fils – 2023
Gérard Tremblay – 2023
Guillaume Vrignaud – 2023
Heimbourger – 2023
Jean Collet – 2023
Jean Durup – 2023
Jean-Marc Brocard – 2023
Millet – 2023
Moreau-Naudet – 2023
Orion – 2023
Pascal Henry – 2023
Pattes-Loup – incl 2023 Irancy
Testut – 2023

You still like to have something touchy?

The Finest Wines of Burgundy

A portable, hard-wearing guide to the Côte d’Or plus 90 producers of note and their best wines. Truth be told, there should have been 150 great producers – but not in the 320 pages that were prescribed.
It’s probably time to start working on a new one – eh?

Burgundy Report

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