
A new Burgundy Report
A new Burgundy Report with an additional 20 domaines from in and around Chablis to add to the 64 tasted in January – that’s 84 domaines’ 2020s – and there’s more too!
Nobody gives you more…
A new Burgundy Report with an additional 20 domaines from in and around Chablis to add to the 64 tasted in January – that’s 84 domaines’ 2020s – and there’s more too!
Nobody gives you more…
There’s been no attenuation to the advancement of the vine growth in the last week. There have been a few (helpful!) bursts of rain in the last 2 weeks since I updated you – nicely regular on the 02, 09 and 15 June – but also with high temperatures too – in the last week, 36-38°C have been measured in the vines.
Not since the 2005 vintage have temperatures been so high in June – and in 2022 those temperatures have comfortably exceeded what was seen in 2005. The combination of occasional rain plus high temperatures is the engine of vine growth this year. Despite the episode of frost in early April, we are holding a similar course of precocious maturity to the 2003, 2011 and 2020 vintages when measured at the same time – i.e. 3-4 days ahead of 2007, 2015, 2017 and 2018 – ie, other vintages with August harvesting.
Current estimates are for veraison (the grapes starting to change colour) suggest the 10-15 July. Given that dry days that have followed each delivery of rain, it’s no surprise that mildew is quite rare. On the other hand, as it is the morning dew that helps oïdium, this is where the growers’ concerns are currently most focused – but for now, the treatments have the upper hand. Black rot is a rarer problem – but was found in the Côte d’Or – and more-so in Beaujolais – in 2021 but seems largely absent at this stage of vine growth.
More in a couple of weeks!
To end, some views from Volnay – starting with Clos de la Chapelle but mainly from Caillerets – images from the end of last week:
For everyone in Europe, it’s unnecessary to mention the heatwave of the moment but, for readers further afield, it’s worth mentioning the temperatures of 35-38°C. We see these temperatures for a day or two in most years (not 2021) but typically they come in the high summer of July-August – but these are record temperatures for June.
After a couple of covid years where the magnums were left untouched, we have guests again – and on a hot weekend, it was time to delve into the pile of magnums for something refreshing.
2018 Alain Geoffroy, Chablis 1er Vau-Ligneau
2018, despite its other-worldly yields, continues to offer positive surprises from Chablis – though I’m finding most Côte de Beaune whites a little bland at this stage. Here is a nose of obvious ‘northern freshness’ and a certain citrus twang – it’s a fine invitation. In the mouth, the surprises continue with fine intensity and a grapefruit and tannin style to the flavours and texture. Both delicious and interesting! Excellent wine.
Rebuy – Yes
2017 Chevrot, Bourgogne Aligoté Tilleul Mag
I loved this before bottling but the oak treatment was more generous than I like – so I ordered 6 mags but planned not to open one before it was 5 years old – here’s the first. Cork sealed. A lovely freshness of aroma – very appealing. On the palate there is direction and delicious mouth-watering flavour – still a hint of its creamy oak beginnings – but the oak is now almost in the background. Absolutely delicious young wine – a treat!
Rebuy – Yes
2017 Domaine Champy, Pernand-Vergelesses Mag
Also sealed with cork and herein came a problem. This was just fabulous at the domaine when a baby – today not. Darker colour than the Tilleul and a much more developed nose that suggested a slight oxidation. Over about 1 hour the oxidative note largely faded but the accent remained in the flavours. I’m hoping for better corks in the remaining 2 magnums – I’ve never previously noted any premature ageing with magnums but I won’t be holding onto these with the same confidence as the Chevrot…
Rebuy – No
2020 Gautheron, Chablis VV
One of my ‘house-wine’ purchases and only to note that with these warmer temperatures, the pyrazine was the most visible as for any of these 12 bottles. A shame, as the base wine is great.
Rebuy – No
Whilst these wines were once quite expensive not much cheaper more than 10 years ago, their prices have remained impressively stable – though possibly not next year after the decimation of their 2021 yields. Below are the prices of their 2020s – which are unchanged since their 2017s. Still, only two cuvées are offered but my Swiss merchant expanded the offer to include larger formats in this vintage. I bought some 2020 (neither of these cuvées) direct from the domaine and the prices are comparable.
POUILLY-FUISSE Tête de Cru Les Perrières 2020 75cl 42.00 (*Swiss francs)
POUILLY-FUISSE Hors Classe Les Ménétrières 2020 75cl 52.00
*Delivered price, but Swiss purchase tax is still to be added – 7.7%.
The sun gave way to plenty of stormy weather over the last weekend – though fortunately none of the hail-induced devastation seen in vineyards in more southerly parts of France near Armagnac. There have been a few spots of hail mixed in with the storms but not enough to cause particular damage. As such – though stressed – the Burgundian locals are reasonably happy that up to 45mm of rain fell – since last Friday – on their very dry vineyards; May had delivered less than half the normal amount of rain.
Even in the Hautes Côtes, the flowering was largely over when the rain, sometimes heavy, fell – so will not have significantly affected the setting of the fruit. The chardonnay in Meursault and other places is showing a little coulure but yields still look good – though nobody knows how much juice there will really be until the grapes are pressed!
Post-rain, the weather is much cooler for now but from the weekend onwards will return to the high 20s°C. The recent cooler weather and darker skies have put the projected position in the vines about 3-4 days behind where it was in 2020 but still ahead of 2015 and 2018 – which still comfortably indicates an August harvest. The changeable weather increases the domaines’ vigilance to mildew, where incubation time is 5-6 days, so post-rain, the domaines will have a better idea by the end of this week on how it’s developing. Oïdium is also on the move in certain parcels. Fortunately, entry into the vines is not so difficult at the moment so there has been no brake on the required treatments.
The growth remains rigorous for now in the vines – so tasting appointments are at a premium – this may start to calm in the second half of July…
The April 2022 issue of Burgundy-Report
An additional 20 domaines from in and around Chablis to add to the 64 tasted in January – 84 domaines' 2020s plus a blind tasting of some 2020 wines from the Côtes d'Auxerre:
2020 Côtes d'Auxerre – and its close neighbours:
Northern Burgundy 2020
The Chablis Producers (Part 2)
New Here:
Raoul Gautherin et Fils – 2020
Not so new here:
Bessin-Tremblay – 2020
Billaud-Simon – 2020
Château de Béru – 2020
Christian Moreau – 2020
d’Henri – 2020
Eleni & Edouard Vocoret – 2021
Gilbert Picq – 2020
Jean Collet & Fils – 2020
Jean-Hughes & Guilhem Goisot – 2020
Laroche – 2020
Millet – 2020
Moreau-Naudet – 2020
Patrick Puize – 2020
Pattes Loups – 2019
Roland Lavantureux – 2020
Savary – 2020
Venon et Fils – 2020
Vignoble Dampt Frères – 2020
Yvon & Laurent Vocoret – 2020
The March 2022 issue of Burgundy-Report
Mopping up some Beaujolais domaines moved from February and a mix of names – new and old – from the Côte d'Or and Mâconnais. As always, those wines worth a special search are highlighted for you in blue. That's now over 300 domaines (304) for this 2020 vintage season:
The Beaujolais Producers (Part 2)
New Here:
Aurelie & Fabien Romany – 2020
Chapel – 2020
Château de Vaux – 2020
des Prévelières – 2020
Les Roches Bleues – 2021 & 2020
Pascal Aufranc – 2020
Prunelle de Navacelle – 2020
Not so new here:
Château du Basty – 2020
de la Madone – Frères Bérerd – 2020
Jean Loron – 2020
Jeunes Pousses – 2020
Julie Balagny – 2020
Philippe Deschamps – 2020
Richard Rottiers – 2020
Romanesca – 2020
The Côte d'Or Producers
New Here:
Bourgogne-Devaux – 2020
Not so new here:
Benoît Moreau – 2020 again
Buisson-Battault – 2020
Digioia-Royer – 2020
Elodie Roy – 2020 again
Thomas-Collardot – 2020
Tollot-Beaut – 2020
The Mâconnais:
JA Ferret – 2020
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