Right: Romanée-Conti 28 April 2025

A few weeks ago, I read an article that stated ‘it appears the Vosne-Romanée appellation zone has been expanded, incorporating an additional 30 parcels of vineyard into the appellation. In total, these blocks constitute three hectares (7.4 acres).‘

Seemingly, this was a story that had slipped through the net but it was hard to get to the bottom of what was involved. I had to enlist the help of ‘Burgundy Wines,’ to get to the information – and it took them some time too, despite that I was not the only one asking for clarification.

It seems that the actual situation is much more modest than the quote (above) might suggest. I’ve slightly modified the words of their researches, only to make the situation a little more concise:

Whilst the number of ‘modified’ plots is indeed notable — around thirty in total — the actual changes involve only very small areas, often no more than a few rows of vines.
This is part of a broader clean-up of the appellation boundaries which, for Vosne-Romanée, was completed at the end of 2024.
The changes were brought about using a ‘simplified mechanism’ that allows for minor adjustments without triggering a national ‘opposition process.’
Other appellations have already used, or are in the process of using, this same mechanism. These updates typically occur every 10, 15, or 20 years to reflect the evolving realities on the ground.

Four Premier Cru Climats are included in these adjustments:
1. In Vosne-Romanée:
Aux Brûlées is now 4.6311 ha from 4.5408 ha
Aux Raignots/Reignots is now 1.6422 ha from 1.6295 ha
Les Petits Monts is now 3.7283 ha from 3.6803 ha
2. In Flagey-Echezeaux:
Les Beaux Monts is now 7.5628 ha from 7.0589 ha – the largest change
The 4.4514 ha of Beaux Monts in Vosne-Romanée is unchanged

I’ve known for some time that some producers with vines in Beaux Monts have not been declaring part of their production as 1er cru – this should change in 2025. And to underline, there have been no changes made to the boundaries of the Grand Crus.

Right: Beaujolais 15 March 2025…

A new report with 64 producers and, mainly, their 2023s…

Two more weeks of visits to taste 2023 Beaujolais – weeks 3 & 4 of 4 weeks planned – and the others are a nice dozen of Côte d’Or producers – as I slowly start to return my gaze to this part of Burgundy. My April report will see a return to Chablis – I’ve only done half of my normal list, so far. And a few more visits form the core of the regions the Côte d’Or down to Mâcon…

For my best addresses in Beaujolais, see in my slightly updated summary in my February 2025 report …

That’s 304 domaines already visited to taste 2023s, and 289 already online 😉

Last weekend, we lost Marko de Morey – a long-time contributor to Burgundy Report.

His acerbic observations on the harvests – at multiple domaines over multiple years – made him a great favourite here.

Mark was a friend, so I am shocked to learn he has left us.

I fondly remember his combative personality – which I’m sure was apparent to all in his writings – but also his love of Burgundy – not just the wines but the place and the people too.

For many well-known names in the UK (Burgundy) wine trade, he was also their Bank Manager – retired 3-4 years now – his ire about some of those traders that he helped out, who would in later years no-longer allocate him a bottle of Roumier could light up a room and warm your hands with its incandescence – and that was also the fun of Mark – as, to cool off, we sipped something from Lafon instead 🙂

I will miss him dearly…

Beaujolais 07 February 2023…

I’m happy to let you know that my latest report went online yesterday – a report of visits to over 70 domaines.

The bulk of those visits are covering the first two weeks of my visits to taste 2023 Beaujolais – 2 of 4 weeks in Beaujolais – and the others a week in Chablis. My March report will have 2 more weeks of Beaujolais and at least a dozen great domaines from the Côte d’Or, while April and May will see more visits in Chablis as, so far, I’ve only really done half of my normal visits…

Back to Beaujolais – it will be a crowd-pleasing vintage – missing many of the highs of 2022 but also the lows – I describe 2023 as having less amplitude than 2022 but on average it’s more attractive young.

For my best addresses, see in my February 2025 report …

Chablis Grand Cru – July 2023

For a vintage finishing in ‘3’ – i.e. 2023 – the vigneron(ne)s are very happy; quantity together with quality has been their mantra.

Given what was to follow in 2024, they are particularly thankful for the production volume of 2023. This was one of the largest recorded volumes, in places exceeding the volume produced in 2018. The authorised volumes were at a maximum – more in the case of grand crus – plus an additional ‘reserve’ (the VCI) to be used if times of need were to arrive – as they surely did in 2024.

I can confirm that practically every 2023 wine I tasted in the region – 65 domaines in my first wave of visits between January and February 2025 – was delicious. But I was usually left asking myself ‘But is this really Chablis?’ I typically felt that these were wines from planet chardonnay – compared to 2014s, 2017s, 2021s and even the 2024s in waiting, which clearly came from planet Chablis.

In my first week of visits, I found just 3 domaines where my eyes lit up as I tasted the wines.

It’s a vintage that showcases the grape variety more than ‘place.’ So, if you really want Chablis, you will need my list of ‘best addresses’ – in my January 2025 report …

The December 2024 issue of Burgundy-Report

The 2023 Burgundy Vintage:
Part 3 of 3 in the Côte d’Or
Right: Beaune – Sept 2023 harvesting…

This report comprises 34 reports of visits from December 2024 plus a link to my summary of the Côte d’Or vintage from the October report. That’s 114 domaines from the Côte d’Or now online. The 2023 visits in Chablis will be online in just a couple of weeks – only my summary needs to penned 🙂

As usual, from each producer a few words on their vintage campaigns (2023 & 2024) and, as always, those extra-special wines that are worth a special search are highlighted for you.

December’s part 3 here: The Côte d’Or reports with 34 additional domaines…