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collet’s cremant…

Gilles et Romain Collet CremantEvery year when I taste the Chablis at Domaine Jean Collet, I also buy a little cremant, and usually in magnum. There’s a, non-size-related, advantage to buying in magnum too – at least this year:

Their base wine for the latest available cuvée is from 2018 – all Petit Chablis with 5g dosage, malo done, 1.5 hectares worth, harvested 3 weeks before the Petit Chablis. But if you are buying in magnum, these bottles are still based on the 2015 vintage, and like any NV Champagne, the do get better and better with a little cellar time. That is definitely the case here. This (large) bottle was absolutely delicious – much more-so than the slightly more angular wine (today) from 2018. I recommend it very highly…

This is why I buy a little each year 🙂

opened bottles…

JC Boisset Meursault Limozin 2017, Pavillon Volnay Santenots 2009

2017 Jean-Claude Boisset, Meursault Limozin
Almost a textured depth of aroma – certainly cushioned – modestly oaked and of ripe but not exotic fruit. In the mouth, this is nicely fresh starting, even a little mineral. There’s structure but also softness – probably because there’s still some visible oak in the finish. But the finish is wide, interesting and persistent – nicely structural and mineral here. This started a bit anonymously but finished with plenty of character. Give it a couple more years in the cellar if you’re confident with cork, but it’s a very good, almost excellent wine.
Rebuy – Yes

2009 Pavillon, Volnay 1er Santenots
This nose starts deep and fruity – seemingly still with some vanilla too – but very little air is needed and the vanilla is gone – wider, complex, inviting, starting to fill with secondary aromas – tobacco for instance – that’s great! Concentrated wine, with a saline-accented line of flavour, but wide and complex and delicious too. Still quite a baby and also still finishing with some lip-smacking oaky bitters. A tremendous wine though, almost bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

Of-course, due to my laziness, there have been others in the last weeks – just a few words about each as I didn’t record anything:

2018 Dampt Frères, Chablis 1er Montée de Tonnerre
Easy, decently concentrated, very tasty wine – only the merest impression of ‘Chablis’ – but considering the cost of ‘Bourgogne Blanc’ this remains a very worthy option.

2014 des Chézeaux / Berthaut-Gerbet, Gevrey-Chambertin
Amélie Berthaut’s second vintage – already here is both aromatic class and a lovely, balanced, flavour. Young, delicious wine. I’m very happy to have a few more of these – and her 1er cru Gevreys too.

2018 Alain Geoffroy, Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Round, rich, some fat, but decently balanced, very tasty wine. I wouldn’t have guessed Chablis though…

2011 Camille Giroud, Volnay 1er Caillerets
Modestly coloured. The nose while complex, disappoints me – so much vanilla is still visible here. Beautifully balanced, medium-bodied wine of proper Caillerets clarity – yet – the palate still suffused with vanilla notes. I’ve one or two more – given my lack of empathy with vanilla, I’ll be waiting another 5 years, I think…

Latest Burgundy Reports

01-2021

2019 Chablis - 66 producers

The January 2021 issue of Burgundy-Report
Unashamedly Chablis 2019
2019 Chablis – Easy Classic…

The Producers
66 domaines and their 2019s – including a few words from the producers on their 2019 and 2020 campaigns. As always, those wines worth a special search are highlighted for you in blue:
To start: 66x 2019 Petit Chablis

New Here:
Bardet et Fils – 2019
Camille et Laurent Schaller – 2019
Château de Chemilly – 2019
Des Hâtes – 2019
Isabelle & Denis Pommier – 2019
Maupa – 2019

And in roughly alphabetical order:
Agnes et Didier Dauvissat – 2019
Alain Geoffroy – 2019
Alice & Olivier De Moor – 2019
Beaufumé – 2019
Besson – 2019
Billaud-Simon – 2019
Céline & Frédéric Gueguen – 2019
Charly Nicolle – 2019
Chaude Ecuelle – 2019
Château de Béru – 2019
Chevallier – 2019
Christian Moreau – 2019
Christophe et Fils – 2019
Claire, Laurence et Denis Race – 2019
Clotilde Davenne – 2019
Corine et Jean-Pierre Grossot – 2019
Cyril Gautheron – 2019
d’Henri – 2019
Daniel Seguinot – 2019
Daniel, Sébastien & Vincent Dampt – 2019
Domaine du Chardonnay – 2019
Drouhin Vaudon – 2019
Eléonore Moreau – 2019
Eleni & Edouard Vocoret – 2019
Garnier & Fils – 2019
Gilbert Picq – 2019
Jean Collet & Fils – 2019
Jean Dauvissat – 2019
Jean-Claude Courtault + Michelet – 2019
Jean-Claude et Romain Bessin – 2019
Jean-Hughes & Guilhem Goisot – 2019
Jean-Marc Brocard – 2019
Jean-Paul et Benoit Droin – 2019
La Chablisienne – 2019
La Meulière – 2019 & 2018
La Motte – 2019
Laurent Tribut – 2019
Long-Depaquit – 2019
Louis Michel – 2019
Louis Moreau – 2019
Malandes – 2019
Marronniers & Maupertuis – 2019
Millet – 2019
Moreau-Naudet – 2019
Nathalie & Gilles Fèvre – 2019
Oudin – 2019
Patrick Puize – 2019
Pattes Loups – 2018
Pinson – 2019
Roland Lavantureux – 2019
Samuel Billaud – 2019
Séguinot-Bordet – 2019
Servin – 2019
Testut – 2019
Thomas Ventoura – 2019
Vignoble Dampt Frères – 2019
Vincent Dauvissat – 2019
Vocoret – 2019
William Fevre – 2019
Yvon & Laurent Vocoret – 2019

12-2020

You still like to have something touchy?

ze-book

The Finest Wines of Burgundy

A portable, hard-wearing guide to the Côte d’Or plus 90 producers of note and their best wines. Truth be told, there should have been 150 great producers – but not in the 320 pages that were prescribed.
It’s probably time to start working on a new one – eh?

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