The return of the Mark – Vosne 2024 – part 2
Domaine Michel Gros Vendange 2024 – Day 1, Saturday 21st Sept
After travelling, arrival day and evening socials/dinner, this was ‘it’, day one for this vintage which, maybe more than usual, has had one wondering what might be in store given the much-trailed 2024 weather issues and effects to this point.
Had forgotten what sort of timing I’d used last year for getting up, ready, and early into breakfast but settled on rising here at c6.30 which seemed ok when I made it into the dining cave to see only the well-known older regulars from last year who presided over laying out breakfast materials and brewing the all-important very strong black coffee. Tea bags of varying types were available but to ‘brew up’ required a tea bag in mug with a microwave to heat the water – a dubious-looking microwave of some ‘vintage’ who’s turntable no longer turned !!!
I’d come prepared with my own bananas, breakfast bars and soft apricots which would suit me thro the vendange rather than the huge hunks of bread, chunks of butter, and confiture the regulars were used to/put away, and dip into their coffee – not for me !!!
Back to my room post breakfast for teeth brushing and gathering my stuff:- camera, knee pads, gloves, and, on this dry-looking day, old Merrell trainers which are my gardening/exterior of the home footwear in the UK. Ambling to the plot across the road from the domaine gates where we habitually gather, and were the vehicles are (tractors x 4; 2 v Renault Minibuses, large white Peugeot van, plus assorted smaller white vans and blue 9-seat Citroen Jumpy, any number of familiar from last year faces greeted me cheerily and enquired as to my health etc.
The standout feature for me was the new Gros building which had been under construction last year, and I recall may have been started in 2022. Purpose various to give the domaine more covered space. Immediately, the building looked finished but closer inspection revealed not – both in exterior & interior aspects (roof edgings, no guttering/downpipes etc, and inside a bathroom, toilet and shower area to be fitted out. The building though, I guessed work having paused for the vendange, is quite attractive different in terms of what I can only describe as 3D type brickwork (see photo[s], which hopefully Bill will publish, which I’ve not seen before and certainly differentiates it from others of similar type. The exterior whiteish smooth hardstanding (concrete ?) is complete as are impressive & neat exterior walls edging along the street.
Amongst one of the later arrivals, in battered large white panel van, I was delighted to see one of last year’s canine specials, the largely white, wolfish looking, in practice very friendly, Onyx – and, bless him, as I called his name thro the van side window he wagged his tail for me from within. His elderly, dishevelled looking, short gent, Guy, greeted me warmly. We would partner up cutting rows in HCDN En Fretoilles in days to come.
Temporary office lady, Sarah (ex Patriarche), all the while recording our individual attendances via clipboard, is a long-term substitute for last year’s fiercely efficient Juliette whom, Pierre Gros had told me in response to my pre vendange email enquiry, is on a long-term sickness absence (reason not given and I didn’t ask).
My pre-vendange strategy now came into play here ! Last year, whilst I’d participated, amongst others, in working in Clos des Reas, Richebourg, and Vosne 1er Brulees, I’d missed out on the likes of Clos de Vougeot Maupertuis and Echezeaux plus some other ‘lesser’ terroirs. The latter top sites had been worked, as had a number of the other attractive to me terroirs, by a smaller sub-team split off from the whole workforce, and with their own moving around transport. Consequently, in response to one of Pierre Gros’ later pre-vendange emails I’d asked, politely not cheekily, if I might be part of any smaller team this year. His reply had been a no problem affirmative with the obvious caveat that I remind him on the first morning (as here) which now I politely did. He readily & casually confirmed ‘the plan’ pointing me to one of the two Renault minibuses with senior ‘players’, driver Fabian and Christelle, both of whom I knew slightly from last year. Isn’t it good when a plan comes off 😉 ? The sub-team also utilised a large white ageing (presumably domaine-owned) Peugeot van driven by a youngish guy, name of Louis, who I didn’t recall from last year.
If any readers at this point just want to know what we did during the day without reading more then I can summarise thus:- Morning:- Vougeot, then Echezeaux to neatly take us up to lunch. Afternoon:- a plot of Nuits-St-Georges Village (think this was La Charmotte, if not then Aux Saint Juliens) followed, by a ‘close of play’ Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er cru Aux Vignerondes.
To Vougeot in more detail. Little tricky to describe exactly where we entered the Clos and the Gros vines are (just slightly along from the entry in the wall). If one imagines The Clos ‘roughly’ as a rectangle then our location was very roughly south west; Grands Echezeaux being on the other side of the wall. The Gros vines are ‘further round’ coming from the south, nearer to the Chateau (if still a way from it), than the Domaine Michel Noellat Vougeot vines I’ve worked in previously. Assuming Bill publishes the appropriate photo(s) one can gain a better idea of our location by assessing against where the Chateau is over the sea of vines.
This day was by some margin the best day weather-wise of our vendange – after this matters, meteo wise, became clouded in uncertainty (and worse) but a bright, cloudless, sky morning set the tone for the day – I subsequently saw 25°C during the afternoon, must have been on the vehicle dash. As a Saturday, Vosne was very sleepy as we left (the rest of the workforce were ‘doing’ Clos des Reas) with the main road quiet before we turned off it and took a back route to the Vougeot wall. The clear sky already featured two distant hot air balloons to the east. These were a portent of quite a bit of aerial activity through the day with any number of different aircraft – the NSG aerodrome must have been busy. Three, presumably French Air Force fighters or training aircraft, flew over mid-morning east to west heading for the top of the Cote D’Or escarpment. No idea what type they were – but distinctive with long noses and fuselage before stubby un-swept wings, and short further rear fuselage to the upright tail. I can’t recall now how many rows of vines Gros have here or whether we were doubled up in the rows, guess we were. As a first sighter to this vintage, the grapes were very much less than impressive – scrappy, bitty, small bunches and clear evidence of mildew. I was subsequently to ask Pierre Gros about the yield here. He came back to me with 4 differing terroir yields – I’ll cover those off in Day 2 or Day 3s words – but suffice to say not ‘good’, quite the contrary.
From Vougeot seemed but a short ‘hop’ to the Gros Echezeaux plot. This was very appealing on the eye (or mine anyway) indeed. I’m confused.com as I type this in terms of Lieux-Dit. Say this as I’d understood, or thought I did, that the Gros plot is in ‘Les Loachausses’ but where we were, with a bit of gentle upslope altitude, is at odds with the map in my ‘Climats & Lieux Dits’ “bible”. I’ve worked in both the Arlaud & Michel Noellat plots, which are actually very close to each other, and they are both in Les Treux to my understanding. I’m going to have to ask but for now guess we were in “Du Dessus” or ‘Les Poulailleres’.
At this point I halted my typing as time for dinner loomed. This was an opportunity to ask Michel about my puzzle. This got me absolutely nowhere as he seemed as bemused as me, confirming their vines are indeed in ‘Les Loachausses’, so for now I’m baffled but thinking is there an error in the mapping in my above ”bible” ? Whatever……….!! The Gros plot we were looking at had above it a fallow section of neatly tilled soil where whatever vines had existed previously had been pulled out – no sign remaining. Someone in our group told me replanting here was planned for Spring 2025. I could but guess in that obtaining the vines back they’d been ‘inherited’ in a poor state. So, in totality the Michel Gros overall plot consisted of the existing rows of vines below, and the ‘empty’ section, and also, maybe curiously, included two old-vine planted rows above the ‘empty’ section which we rattled through after the main element. What was clear, and good, was the quality of the grapes in Echezeaux. A very significant improvement on Vougeot and almost ‘normal’ – whilst quality of what grapes there were looked very good, and signs of mildew were much less prevalent, more volume would have been ‘good’. Anyway, a decent way to go into lunch.
Post lunch took us to another, for me, new location & an unusual one too. Assembling, we were almost, apart from a narrow tarmac road, but up to a fence separating us from the car park of the NSG Intermarche ! We seemed to hang about here for a while prior to getting going, not sure why. Just along the road to our right from where we were standing was a white, flat bed truck with bored looking driver – turned out he was from Louis Latour, waiting for his picking team to arrive – they subsequently did after we had got going and, sizeable in number, picked rows adjacent to us.
Whilst we were waiting to get going I noted with amusement a woman sat alongside the two laundromat washing machines on the outside of the Intermarche who was accompanied by two largish dogs of mastiff or fighting type breed. Some minutes later the inevitable happened in that Onyx managed to find a gap in the fence to the car park, and without regard for his size, immediately started fighting with one of the aforementioned dogs. Fortunately, the woman was accompanied by a guy who hadn’t been visible previously and between them they separated the snarling dogs &, with much shouting from us, naughty instigator Onyx came back to us without ‘damage’. Ten out of ten to him for bravery though ! It was hot, hot, hot here as the afternoon progressed with 2/3 passes of the quite ling village grapes rows. Something of a thirst-inducing slog ! Mixed results in that some decent grapes but again mildew evident.
From the above site we moved not too far away, to another new one to me to add to my ‘worked in collection’. This was mid-slope NSG 1er Aux Vignerondes, on the north side again of NSG, situated between Aux Boussselots & Aux Murgers. I wrote ‘split site’ here but can’t now recall exactly what I meant by this but have a recollection the lower set of rows upslope ended in a grassy sward with another set of rows above this, which saw us split into two groups to work the rows. Again small yields were the order of the day. Completing work in this premier cru took us to a close for this first day.
Back to the domaine and room I figured, if I were quick, I’d be well placed to be the first of the 4 of us guys in the 2 rooms on our landing to get in the unoccupied shower but, to my frustration, whilst I was dumping my working gear, collecting my washbag, towel etc the Dutch guy in the next room beat me into the shower – nothing for it but to wait what seemed an age for him to do his ablutions.
At some stage either here or earlier M. Nanson had messaged me to mention he’d be finished in Vosne c19.00 hrs and suggesting a meet up at the Liger-Belair La Cuverie de Vosne, conveniently all but next door to me. Eventually, a little after the appointed hour, contact ! Nice bottle of Chablis lubricated a brief conversation before ‘Sir’ had to head off to his car, and a return to Switzerland for the duration of my vendange, meaning no Beaune session for once and thus 3 ‘redundant’ bottles I’d brought from the UK (2 of which subsequently returned with me).
And so to bed ! Day 2 to come with a marked change in the weather, another NSG 1er cru, plenty of Chambolle village before concluding in a charming site in dear ole Morey-St-Denis.
MdMdlV
