Tasted in Villié-Morgon with Raphael Champier, 13 February 2024
Domaine Léonis
86 Chemin des Presles
69910 Villié-Morgon
Tel: +33 6 86 98 96 62
Domaine Instagram
www.domaine-leonis.fr
Here, in a hidden part of Villié-Morgon, Raphael and Crystelle Champier have, since 2011, their exploitation – the domaine officially registered in 2015.
Raphael explains: “We have 7 hectares here – mostly metayage – a lot of which are old vines which we’ve slowly converted to organic viticulture. All the production is commercialised in bottle – of which, about half is exported. Elevage is longer here so the 2022s are not yet bottled. Before covid, we sold the wine of the year but this quiet period was to our advantage, helping us to slow down the commercialisation of the wines. We also have a white which is a contract from Saint-Étienne-des-Oullières.”
The wines…
Considering the sub-optimal tasting conditions, pre-bottling, what a delicious set of wines.
All tasted from tank:
2022 Cote de Brouilly
From tank – south-west facing on the Quincié side of the hill
Direct and a little reductive. In the mouth, this has a fine combination of energy and concentration. The finish is lovely, red-fruited and has just a hint of finishing structure. That will be a lovely wine.
2022 Beaujolais Villages
Also from Saint-Étienne-des-Oullières
Good impact – this nose is directly more open – and of perfumed width too. Vibrant – juicy, that’s going to be lovely – the structure supporting, buttressing the flavours. That’s got a great finish too – a super wine that finishes deliciously already!
2022 Brouilly
On clay and limestone in the commune of St.Lager. A parcel bought in 2015…
This nose needs a bit of air – like the first – but with darker, more direct fruit. In the mouth too, this is direct and with good energy. Darker fruit in the flavours too – mouth-watering in this finish. That will be lovely – it’s a very fine finish.
2022 Regnié
This sample was assembled from part tank and part barrel elevage – old barrels ‘that hopefully don’t mark, I just want the micro-oxygenation’ – some of this was included in their BJV in 2021.
More airy and perfumed notes. Supple in the mouth – texturally lovely. And easily the most delicious wine of all in this lovely finish. It’s excellent…
2022 Brouilly
The only parcel of the domaine – from Raphael’s parents – which is in barrel for 12 months.
The most open and pretty nose of all – not showing its barrel elevage. Rounder from the barrels in the mouth – but finely grained with tannin and delicious fruit. Even more deliciously finishing too – boiled sweets at the end.
2022 VdF Cuvée Léonis
From Regnié but each year it’s just the best grapes of the domaine with elevage in an amphora.
A nose of breadth, darker fruit and salinity. Lush, good energy and quite sweet – yes there’s still some residual sugar in this. But this finish is actually quite delicious and long-lasting.
2022 Beaujolais Villages Blanc
This is actually quite direct and inviting nose – a faint mirabelle fruit. In the mouth too, maybe also a little quince. This has a juicy mineral style in the middle – and just a suggestion of the classic Beaujolais Blanc rigour – but this is tasty wine. Well done!