weekend wine – week #18 2022

By billn on May 10, 2022 #degustation

weekend 18 2022

2019 Gautheron, Chablis 1er Montmains
One of my house wines from last year: Already coming into a great place (I might be tempted to open my 2020 Homme Mort!) with freshness and aromatic clarity – a super invitation. In the mouth, cool, all sinew and muscle – mineral freshness. A wine to drink and drink – and we did! Lovely stuff
Rebuy – Yes

2003 des Chézeaux/Berthaut, Gevery-Chambertin 1er Cru
In small-volume vintages – such as this – their Cazetiers and Lavaux are usually blended. For at least 15 years this wine has been absolutely delicious. Today, showing a small extra aromatic maturity but luscious, sweet fruit on the palate too – it just goes to show how we have become accustomed to the ripeness of modern wines – this was quite an outlier for many years – it’s now, practically, normal! On day two the last third (overnighted in the fridge) didn’t smell so nice – I didn’t finish my glass – but day one was really on top form. I think I have 3 or 4 more – I’m sure that they will all be enjoyed!
Rebuy – Yes

just a bit of cramp

By billn on May 09, 2022 #events

…but still 24.4 km done today for the team at Bike to Care.

The only real negative (cramp excepted) of this foot-tour through the Côte de Beaune from Santenay in the south to Beaune in the north – the cuverie of Louis Jadot as finishing-line – was the north wind! In the face the whole way! Never cold though, we had almost 24°C and lots of sunshine. The vines looked resplendent – now with 20-30cm, or more, of leafy growth.

The bikers will tackle another 100km stage tomorrow – the Côte de Nuits this time. Me? I’ll be making some domaine visits – and comparing tales of aching legs at the Château de Clos Vougeot tomorrow evening 😉

As it’s not quite over, feel free to contribute at this link!

Santenay to Beaune...

offer of the day – domaine leflaive 2019 & 2020 mâconnais & chalonnaise

By billn on May 08, 2022 #the market

DOMAINE LEFLAIVE 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
Mâcon-Verzé 2017, 2018, 2019 75cl 33.00 (Swiss francs*)
Mâcon-Verzé Les Chênes 2017, 2018, 2019 75cl 38.00
Mâcon-Verzé Le Monté 2019 75cl 39.00
Pouilly-Fuissé 2020 (2019, 2018) 75cl 52.00 (49.00, 49.00)
Rully 1er Cru Leflaive & Associés 2017, 2018, 2020 75cl 49.00
Image, right, ex-Domaine Leflaive

As usual from this merchant, the prices are ‘delivered’ but without the mandatory 7.7% purchase tax. Save for a little jump for the Pouilly, stable as she goes…

2020 Thillardon, Chénas Vibrations

By billn on May 06, 2022 #degustation

Thillardon Vibration

2020 Thillardon, Chénas Vibrations
It’s not often that a bottle is drunk on an evening chez moi – even with two of us to satisfy – but this wine managed it with ease! Medium red colour with a nose that suggests no sulfur then over-delivers on attractive red berry fruit. In the mouth; sweetness, plenty of generosity too, yet never ponderous. There’s a mineral energy too here that befits the name of this cuvée – and frankly, it was just delicious.
Rebuy – Yes

March Burgundy Report online

By billn on May 05, 2022 #reports

March 2022[It goes without saying – for subscribers!]

Mopping up some Beaujolais domaines moved from February into March and a mix of names – new and old – from the Côte d'Or and Mâconnais.

This report, as always, has those wines worth a special search highlighted for you in blue. That's now over 300 domaines (304) for this 2020 vintage season – with, the winemakers giving their thoughts on 2020 and 2021. Of course, there are more to come before we switch to the 2021 vintage!


Most important news of the day…

By billn on May 05, 2022 #sad losses...

I don’t know if the gentleman – now with only one ball – was invited to this ceremony!

recent wines – week 17 2022

By billn on May 02, 2022 #degustation

2016 Buisson-Charles, Chablis Vaudésir
Patrick Essa has been making a range of maison wines for a few years now. This was served blind and had a ripeness yet energy that made me think of the best producers in Mâconnais – but not Pouilly-Fuisse. There was a modestly exotic style to the fruit but a clean attack that should have reminded me that 2016 is quite a favourite of mine in Chablis. Overall, a great wine for such a ‘non-standard’ Chablis, yet one that properly reflects the vintage there. It drank great for the whole night!
Rebuy – Yes

2016 Vincent Dancer, Meursault Les Grands Charrons
Another wine of supple, slightly exotic flavours – at this age the vintage completely outshining the place. Another wine that you would justly call delicious despite, in this case, having no single feature that you might consider Murisaltien! Yum!
Rebuy – Maybe

2010 Daniel Rion, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Beaux-Monts
Another wine that was served blind, and what a tour de force of a nose – much more mature than you expect from the vintage, full of sous-bois and enticing mature character. It seemed to me to be a warmer vintage so I considered 1997 or 2000 to be suitable vintages and perhaps from a very place – such as Chapelle-Chambertin… So much for blind guessing! But this was a wine that was completely on song – the first to be opened from this case, no-less!
Rebuy – Yes

2020 Camille & Laurent Schaller, Chablis
Here’s a wine with no hint of the 2020 greens – just a very attractive and properly mineral yet tasty wine. All as it should be from this (otherwise) excellent vintage. Super!
Rebuy – Yes

1999 Nicolas Potel, Volnay 1er Clos des Chênes
When released, this wine was one of my joint-top-three Volnays of the vintage – it wasn’t possible to separate this from Lafon’s Santenots or d’Angerville’s Ducs – 3-4 years later this was clearly in third place – though still something great. This may, unfortunately, be my last bottle – unfortunately, because it was such a bravura wine – concentrated, clean, complex, a little muscular, even a little young – certainly younger than the 2010 Rion. But a beauty – a real beauty! Bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

2000 Bessin-Tremblay, Chablis 1er Montmains
As the previous bottle – great wine from an excellent vintage. Bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

offer of the day – Angerville 2020

By billn on May 01, 2022 #the market

The prices from my usual merchant in Switzerland:

Domaine Marquis d’Angerville 2020 (in brackets the prices of the 2019s, 2018s and then the 2016s – I never saw 2017s…)
Volnay 1er Cru 2020 75cl 85.00 (79.00, 75.00, —)* (Swiss Francs)
Volnay Fremiet 1er Cru 2020 75cl 115.00 (105.00, 105.00, 105.00)
Volnay Champans 1er Cru 2020 75cl 149.00 (129.00, 129.00, 129.00)
Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru 2020 75cl 248.00 (215.00, 198.00, —)

These 2020s are available for delivery only at the end of this year. The price you see is ‘delivered’ but ex 7.7% Swiss purchase tax. That’s a jump!

a few bottles, mainly from last week…

By billn on April 28, 2022 #degustation

Just a few wines that were drunk before last weekend – the weekend wines will follow – but what can I remember? 😉

2016 Raphaël Chopin, Beaujolais Lantignie La Savoye
Full coloured – and with a ton of tartrate rubble to deposit in the last glass too! Full, warm-weather aromatic but not cooked. Really impressive size for this wine – more than the 2019, for instance. Supple, layered, concentrated but just about avoiding ‘heavy.’ Excellent!
Rebuy – Yes

2020 Cyril Gauthier, Chablis Vieilles-Vignes
One of my new ‘house wines’ for this year – but showing the problem of 2020: Not a hint of pyrazine from the tank-sample at the domaine but clearly there’s a lick of it here. Yet! The same bottle on day 2, neither I nor my equally sensitive better half could find any – it was just fabulous. So, I will be decanting this an hour or 2 beforehand. I seem to be already down to my last 8 bottles – oups!
Rebuy – Maybe

2017 Domaine d’Henri, Chablis 1er Fourchaume Héritage
Right out of the gates – great wine. Of course, still a baby – but a mineral and citrus-infused wine that was completely delicious and as classic as you can imagine any Chablis to be from the last 6-7 years. Bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

2019 Frederic Berne, Régnié Aux Bruyères
Silky, concentrated, pure class in a glass!
Rebuy – Yes

1998 Denis Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin
Practically undrinkable young (for this palate) with its heavy cigarette-ash oaky nose – but now it’s in great shape. Admittedly, a strong aromatic remains – one that’s now a mix of tobacco and sous-bois – but lovers of mature wine will be purring. Balanced, layered deliciously complex mature wine. Bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

2019 Boris Champy, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune Altitude 377
Anyone brought up on the Bourgognes of the 1990s and onwards will be shocked by how good the Bourgognes of today can be – and here’s another. Despite being Boris’s first vintage and really only being present for the harvest and elevage of this wine – it’s lovely. Fine open, pure-red-fruited delicious stuff. There’s fine energy as you might expect from the Hautes Côtes but there’s depth and class to this flavour too. His 2020s were even better when tasted last year. Super wine!
Rebuy – Yes

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