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a little dark menton…

We would have had a little more light for arrival on the south-coast, yesterday, but the gillets-jaunes caused more than a few problems on French motorways!
 

the week so-far


54, 53, 52, 51…..

Of-course nothing much tops the return of the Scooby this week – covered in frost when recovered on Wednesday morning – an early train trip to Chalon was required, and then a taxi. Subaru is not that well-developed in France – what would have been a 2 day job to fix back home in Switzerland (one day to get the part), took 12 days in France; fault diagnosis, a part ordered from Belgium, which when it arrived was the wrong part, then re-ordering, then fixing. But all is now good, and only 4 appointments were cancelled in the process, as a planned week at home was included, plus some days of French car-hire.

But the weather’s been kind this week – fortunately – as Tuesday was just 4 appointments in Beaune, on foot. Wednesday, after Chalon, to Premeaux and today was Beaune again followed by Nuits St.Georges. Tomorrow to Nuits again for my penultimate tasting of 2018. Today’s tastings were marathons; starting slowly with a mere 26 wines – then hot-footing it to appointment number two – 54 wines! I really wasn’t in much shape for driving afterwards but the sandwich shop was close by, so munch, munch, munch… The afternoon was much easier – 3 hours and only 44 wines!

When I got back home I went straight out for a run – if I’d for one moment sat down, that would have been me immobile for the rest of the evening – as it was, I felt I deserved pizza afterwards!
 

week 49 weekend wines – 2018 BJ Nouveau, 2017 Chambolle, plus an older one…

Well, let me tell you that the Domaine Romy 2018 Beaujolais Nouveau Le Mouflet was that very rare beast – a Beaujolais Nouveau Rosé! This wine was light coloured, transparent, nicely structured and fresh in a way that the best gamay manages to surpass in the vas majority of rosé pinot noirs. It was simply great!
Rebuy – Yes

Then came the 1997 Sylvain Cathiard, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Malconsorts
My last one of these was almost undrinkably bretty, but this starts fabulously with a great and complex mature burgundy nose – so good! After 30 minute, unfortunately, this adds a bit of brett into the mix. A wine that remains drinkable, but much less ‘sniffable’ as it nears its last pours.
Rebuy – No

Lastly the 2017 Bernard et Armelle Rion, Chambolle-Musigny Les Echezeaux
A deep colour for the vintage. The nose is herby but with a very fine fruit and faint flowers too. Big wine, some structure, some herb on the mid-palate complexity too – but what a great depth of fruit as we head into the finish. A wine that softens with air – becoming ever-more friendly. Pretty excellent!
Rebuy – Yes

the last days…

Well, I’m still pumping out some domaine visit reports, adding them to my 2017 white burgundy report, whilst jogging, whilst making more visits, whilst chasing French garages, whilst picking up hire cars – all the usual stuff!

I’ve about 5-6 more reports to add to complete the full white report – by far my biggest ever with over 40 domaines and well over 600 wines. Oh, and Monday evening should see the return of the scooby – they had to import a part from Belgium – try telling that to a Swiss Subaru dealer – they will just laugh – or cry!
 

Burgundy’s 2017 Vintage – instalment #1 – the côte d’or whites

Online today – all you need to know about 2017 white burgundy – together with hundreds of wines tasted

Here: Burgundy Report

weekend wines, week 48 2018

2010 Roty, Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire
I tasted, and loved, this way back in late 2013 – so much so that I ordered a case. Fast-forward 5 years and I eventually got it delivered – what a silly boy! Whilst I may have missed out on a few years great drinking, I’m sure that in that time I found some adequate substitutes! Based on the first two bottles – yes, this wasn’t the only one this weekend! – it seems this wine will still be drunk with great pleasure over the next couple or three years!
Medium, bright, young colour. The nose is analogous to the colour – medium, bright, pretty red fruit. Once-more the palate follows the theme – here with a lovely silky texture. Easy-drinking, pure and whilst über-drinkable – no overt signs of maturity. I think it was a fuller wine when young, but it has lost little of its drinkability.
Rebuy – Yes

2005 Daniel Rion, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Beaux-Monts
Fuller colour. An equally fuller and deep nose – fine-textured dark red fruit and the last vestiges of a once stronger oak. Ample – mouth-filling wine. Concentrated and well-textured – lots of volume of smooth, dark-red fruit flavour here. To borrow a word, hedonistic. Not yet complex, or mature, but delicious today, and like the nose with the faint traces of a, once, much stronger oak. The best it’s tasted since release – but still a baby…
Rebuy – Yes

#2017burgundyreport – the winemakers visited in week 48, 2018

My 2017 White Burgundy report’s not quite ‘publishing ready’ yet, but it will hit the reports page in the next few days. That hasn’t stopped the red report visits, as you can see above, I lost three domaines this week due to timing-belt issues, but I’ve still more visits than ever before – partly the reason for delay in publishing, maybe I have to do less visits next year 🙂 – so I’m sure you won’t notice!

A Burgundy Report EXTRA! subscription costs 85 Swiss Francs per year.

#2017burgundyreport – grisaille, boulevard repetitions and now some côte de nuits…

It’s a normal winter week in the Côtes – grey, and sometimes for good measure, with wet mixed into the grey. It’s not all that photogenic – particularly if you have to get wet whilst taking a grey photo! My trusty Subaru (now almost 370,000km since new!) seems to have developed a funny noise from the engine-bay – maybe a loose exhaust manifold? Anyway, fortunately it’s stable as I’ve no time to get it checked!

The temperatures are not all that cold – holding at about 7° – I hardly need my gloves for jogging, but as usual at this time of year, the best running routes are lost to the darkness, so endless repetitions of the Boulevard and other ‘lit’ areas are required – such is life!

In the cellars it is business as usual, of-course. 2017 being a much more interesting vintage than many who tasted early proclaimed. This is the first week that I’ve consistently starting entering into the Côte de Nuits – and the quality at the good addresses is more consistent than in the Côte de Beaune – at least with my small but growing sample. I’ve roughly 20 visits this week before a short weekend back home and then returning to the Côtes for more next week, and the week after!

Today a ‘trek’ south; to Rully, Mercurey and back home via Volnay…

UPDATE: Well, it didn’t quite work out like that today.

‘Cleaner’ weather for sure – indeed almost blue sky – but also a palpable lack of a Subaru – timing-belt was kaputt – and only 3 weeks after a service too! I could have continued driving, but then there would probably have been a destroyed engine – it was best to stop…

So, not only did I have to arrange for the car to be towed away, I had to cancel my trip to Rully, Mercurey and Volnay – but then the Volnay domaine came back to me – ‘Oh that’s okay – we can pick you up in Beaune!‘ Now how’s that for service? – and their wines were great too – what a relief!

weekend wines, week 47 2018

Wow – week 47 done already – where did all that time go? Anyway, two wines that doubly underscore the fabulous utility of less well-known appellations – Savigny white and Ladoix red, anyone?

2016 Serrigny, Savigny-lès-Beaune Blanc
What a little beauty! Fresh, faintly phenolic like a good Chablis, depth and zing like a great Savigny blanc – Did I ever say how much I enjoy Savigny whites? – I probably did! Simply excellent wine – yum!
Rebuy – Yes

2005 G&P Ravaut, Ladoix 1er Le Bois Roussot
The nose is good but a little pinched – it’s not yet lighting my fire. The palate on the other hand is muscular but lithe, silky but profound – the fruit is a dream. This wine is presumably still young as it’s never been better than now – except, maybe, the nose. Simply great wine and a pleasure to drink the bottle dry in one evening!
Rebuy – Yes

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