des Croix – Beaune 1er Pertuisots – 2010

By billn on November 28, 2021 #degustation

David Croix 2010 Beaune Pertuisots

2010 des Croix, Beaune 1er Pertuisots
Not a lot more than medium colour. A wine that was impossibly floral-perfumed before bottling – today it starts only with fruit – but very fine and pure red berry fruit. Give it enough time and there are flowers too – a smooth lilac impression. Mouth-filling, full of acidic zip but that’s balanced with a modest fat to the texture. At this age the tannin is almost completely submerged – certainly, there’s no grain – just a width of gorgeous and precise flavour – a little fuller and seemingly more concentrated as the wine warms in the glass. I slightly prefer the cooler zip – but I’m splitting hairs. A beauty – bravo – and no rush for my magnums I think 😉 Day two, the wine’s a bit more direct and intense – a little spiced too – so, enjoy it at its maximum on day 1!
Rebuy – Yes

offer of the day – drouhin-laroze 2019

By billn on November 28, 2021 #the market

DOMAINE DROUHIN-LAROZE 2019 – En Primeur
In brackets are the prices of the 2018s, 2017s and 2016s, from the same offers in previous years, from the same merchant. — means not offered…

Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs 2019 75cl 59.00* (55.00, 49.50, 49.50) Swiss Francs
Chambolle-Musigny 2019 75cl 68.00 (—)
Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaut-St-Jacques 1er Cru 2019 75cl — (69.50, 69.00, 65.00)

GRAND CRUS
Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru 2019 75 cl 139.00 (135.00, 125.00, 119.00)
Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2019 75cl — (139.00, 129.00, 125.00)
Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2019 75cl 179.00 (168.00, 149.00, 145.00)
Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2019 150cl 363.00 (—)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2019 75cl 205.00 (188.00, 165.00, 158.00)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2019 150cl 415.00 (—)
Musigny Grand Cru 2019 75cl 650.00 (—)

In their latest offer, some of the 2018 grand crus have even been discounted; the Chappelle, Bonnes-Mares and the Bèze now 119.00, 144.00 and 159.00 respectively! This remains a domaine with reasonable pricing – in today’s overheating market – yet with more variable wines than many other domaines. For instance, I would always pay the premium and take the same wine (when available) from Bruno Clair or even Louis Jadot…

*There is 7.7% Tax to add in Switzerland, but then these are delivered prices

New Beaune Hotel…

By billn on November 27, 2021 #travels in burgundy 2021

New Beaune hotel in the works...

Having mentioned the Hotel Le Montrachet this week, more centrally in the Côte d’Or, I can tell you that there is a new hotel in the works Beaune.

I’ve always loved this great old building a stone-throw away from the Hospices de Beaune but also always been saddened that it has lain empty and seemingly unloved – but for a few weeks now, things have been afoot.

I’d always assumed that the building belonged to the Drouhin family as it was connected behind their offices in Rue d’Enfer – so this week, when tasting together, I asked Véronique Drouhin about it: “Yes, it’s a building that is owned by the family but the work isn’t us. We’ve leased out the building to a company that is developing a hotel – there won’t be a lot of rooms, maybe 15-18 – a kind of boutique hotel I think. We’re really looking forward to seeing the place being used.

I’m also looking forward to a new place in Beaune, central and with plenty of parking in front. Hopefully, other absentee landlords will get the hint as there are too many great buildings languishing, seemingly forgotten, in Beaune today.

And the winners of the 2021 Young Talent Trophies were…

By billn on November 26, 2021 #annual laurels

Young Vigneron's trophy, 2021...
The first selection process in October…

Always an interesting exercise with the winners selected each year during the same week as the Beaune wine auction:

Wines from the Mâconnais:
Franz-Ludwig Gondard from Domaine Gondard-Perrin
For his Viré-Clessé Tradition, Viré-Clessé, Le Belvédère, and Viré-Clessé, Le Clos de Chapotin

Wines from the Côte Chalonnaise
Quentin Joussier, Domaine de l’Evêché
For his Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise édition limitée, Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise, Revillier, and Mercurey, Les Murgers

Wines from the Côte de Beaune
Chloé Baillard-Chevalier from Domaine Chevalier
For her Bourgogne Aligoté, Ladoix Blanc, and Ladoix Rouge

Wines from the Côte de Nuits
Benoît Chevallier from Domaine Benoît Chevallier
For his Bourgogne, En Lutenière, Vosne-Romanée, and Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru, Aux Boudots

Wines from the Chablisien
Pierrick Laroche from Domaine des Hates
For his Petit Chablis, Chablis, Les Châtillons, and Chablis Premier Cru, Les Butteaux

Wines from the Grand Auxerrois
Bastien & Carole Mathias from Domaine Mathias
For their Bourgogne Epineuil, Bourgogne Epineuil, Côte de Grisey, and Bourgogne Tonnerre, Côte de Grisey

Wines from the Beaujolais
Jean-Louis Poulard from Domaine Poulard
For his Morgon Signature, Morgon Dame Noire, and Chiroubles Petites Côtes

offer of the day – Domaine Leflaive 2020…

By billn on November 25, 2021 #the market

As always, from the same supplier each year. Priced in Swiss Francs (chf)
Image (right) courtesy Domaine Leflaive:

DOMAINE LEFLAIVE 2020 – Puligny-Montrachet
In brackets are the prices for 2019, 2018, 2017, 2016 & 2015 – though most of the 2018 prices are missing (—), sorry …

THE ENTRY WINES
Bourgogne 75cl 69.00 (55.00, 49.00, 45.00, 42.00, 38.00)*
Puligny-Montrachet 75cl 119.00 (99.00, —, 89.00, 82.00, 69.00)

PREMIER CRUS
Puligny-Montrachet Les Clavoillons 75cl 185.00 (148.00, 139.00, 128.00, 118.00, 89.00)
Meursault Sous Le Dos d’Âne 75cl 185.00 (148.00, —, 128.00, 118.00, 99.00)
Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 75cl — (—, —, 198.00, 185.00, 145.00)
Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 75cl — (—, —, 198.00, 185.00, 185.00)
Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 75cl 385.00 (299.00, —, 259.00, 245.00, 195.00)

GRANDS CRUS
Bienvenues Bâtard-Montrachet 75cl — (595.00, —, 498.00, 459.00, 325.00)
Bâtard-Montrachet 75cl 890.00 (648.00, —, 565.00, 498.00, 348.00)
Chevalier-Montrachet 75cl 1,190.00 (840.00, —, 695.00, 685.00, 445.00)

*As always the Swiss purchase tax (7.7%) is not included but otherwise, these are delivered prices.

Feel free to take a, collective, sharp intake of breath!

All change? – Seemingly not – Hotel Montrachet, Puligny…

By billn on November 24, 2021 #travels in burgundy 2021

I’m indebted to Marko de Morey for finding a small article and putting it under my nose:

Hotel Le Montrachet

“COMO Le Montrachet”
“In Burgundy’s vinous heartland, the COMO Group has acquired the four-star Le Montrachet, a key property in the village of Puligny-Montrachet and the brand’s first French opening. The Group will work with Italian designer Paola Navone to thoroughly revamp the 18th-century property’s 31 rooms and suites, and the hotel will have France’s first Shambhala Retreat for ultimate relaxation. First phase of the renovations to be completed in 2022.”

The hotel remains my favourite location south of Beaune for a coffee-stop between rendezvous – actually for quality/price, anywhere in the Côte d’Or – and also for the occasional breakfast and lunch too.

Nothing seems to have changed for now – and I was there for my grand crème this morning too – but this weekend they close for their winter holiday – so no more visits in 2021!

The 161st Hospices de Beaune Wine Auction…

By billn on November 22, 2021 #events#the market

Hospices - Sotheby'sThe 161st Hospices de Beaune Wine Auction took place on Sunday evening, November 21st 2021. This was the first of a series (a 10-year contract?) to be led by Sotheby’s.

When you consider the relatively small number of barrels available due to the frosts of 2021, the proceeds of the sale were quite exceptional – €11,678,000 for those 351.5 barrels – about 60% of the volume that was available in the previous sale – and not of the same quality either!

The bare facts are that prices increased by 100% for the whites and 60% for the reds when compared to the previous year. The special lot – the “Pièce des Présidents” – a barrel of Corton-Renardes Grand Cru reached an impressive new record price of €800,000 – thats nearly €2,700 per bottle without the costs of elevage. Looked at another way, that’s ‘only’ what you now pay for the grand crus from Domaine Leroy!

There is, indeed, a paucity of wine in the most recent vintages, though not to the level that could justify the prices paid at the weekend, though we can keep telling ourselves – ‘It’s just for charity!

the 2020 reports already online…

By billn on November 21, 2021 #reports

2020s - the first wave online
The domaines with 2020s already online in Burgundy Report…

Just a taster for the big ‘2020 White’ issue, otherwise known as the October report: above are all the domaines with 2020s online in Burgundy Report right now – there’s another 11 added in the September report

Sun!

By billn on November 18, 2021 #degustation

Truth be told, I haven’t seen any since Sunday – and that wasn’t in France!

Anyway, there was the sun in the sky this afternoon and what a beautiful red sky at sunset too! It seems the weather for hordes who will come to visit Beaune for this Hospices Auction weekend, will be fine – except for Sunday – that’s not going to be so good. Oh well! Still, it looks like beautiful weather for Beaune half-marathon on Saturday – a shame, then, that I’ll be in Bern – but a stubborn cough 3 weeks after the start of a cold (negative tested) has left my jogging shoes unworn – maybe I will get to restart this weekend.

It’s been interesting to catch up on the rumours, some new, and not yet announced changes of ownership around the côtes – maybe a note about such gossip at the weekend.

Anyway, this has been my single busiest week of visits with 21 – but I only seem to get further behind with the writing – well, the publishing anyway.

2020 is coming into focus for me now – the whites are easy but the reds have a stylistic complication. I’ll share more at the appropriate time. Anyway, importantly, I’ve so far avoided issues with the mobile speed camera parked in front of the Clos de Vougeot – unlike some of the winemakers I’ve visited. Talking of avoiding, I also avoided tasting at the Roi Chambertin today; I went but decided not to taste. The place (Tonnellerie Rousseau in Gevrey) was just what was needed – a more open and less covid-intensive set-up after last year’s cancellation – with plenty of winemakers in attendance too. Unfortunately, it was a backwards step in the tasting process – winemakers stood by a barrel with 2-3 of their wines on top – a mini Grands Jours de Bourgogne. If you want to taste seriously, you do the villages, then the 1ers and then the grands – which in this case would have meant continuously touring the barrels and never being able to taste three Corbeaux side-by-side. So I said Hi to a lot of people, ate a number of gougères and then left. You can’t win them all.

Just three visits tomorrow before heading home for the weekend. Enjoy yours, wherever that may be.

Some of this weeks snaps:

Burgundy Report

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