Why Big Red Diary?

rebourgeon-mure’s 2010 pommard 1er clos micault

2010 Rebourgeon-Mure Pommard 1er Clos Micault
Last time out, this was so über-delicious that it bested the domaine’s 2010 Grands Epenots, since then it has tightened a little, though it’s still a fine and moreish wine, just not quite at the same peak of drinking as before. The nose remains bright, berry red-fruited, with just a little extra depth of aroma for padding. Fresh with a really fine intensity of red berry fruit before the flavour opens out more and more in the mid-palate. Lasting flavour too. Versus its youth, unsurprisingly, this has lost a little of the padding that made the wine so complete only 2-3 years ago, but fear not, there’s everything here for a proper mature wine in another 5-10 years – we’re just entering the ‘intermediate’ phase with many 2010s now. Still yum!
Rebuy – Yes

the new restaurant in gevrey-chambertin…

New in Gevrey, the Table d’Hôte Lucie & Thomas Collomb – finally the building work is done at the Rôtisserie du Chambertin 🙂

Plenty of moody pics – fortunately I never found the service at all moody! I’m looking forward to (eventually) visiting here. Whilst I’ve always found plenty of people in their (superb!) Bistro Lucien, I’m (only mildly) surprised that they are adding more competition for themselves – maybe they weren’t sufficiently catering for the ‘high-rollers!

4 million…

I’ve only just noticed that, last week, Burgundy Report passed the 4 million visitors milestone. And that’s only since I changed the site software – sometime in 2006 – not since the beginning of the site in 2002. I’d celebrate with a drink – but it’s breakfast time – later… 🙂

2 x pv

That’s PVs, not PBs – older muscles keep finding a new route to blocking the latter – but the PVs were good medicines!

1995 Dubreuil-Fontaine, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Ile des Vergelesses
Good colour, not overtly aged. The nose begins in very attractive fashion, with a silky smooth width of spiced red fruit. Despite a good-looking and robust cork – only 60% saturated with wine – the the first flavours suggest an accent of oxidation, but subsequent glasses don’t show it at all – I assume that must have just been the wine in the neck(?) The wine is smooth and tasty with fine balance, though not particularly extra-special in any way. Just a pretty middle-age wine. One third is left over for day two and it’s just a little more balsamic in style – very drinkable – but not as good as day one.
Rebuy – Yes

2009 Chandon de Briailles, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Ile des Vergelesses
A little deeper in colour. The nose, unsurprisingly has a younger fruit and is more primary – just a little tightness to start with. In the mouth this has more volume, a little less smoothness but definitely a more persistent and intense finishing flavour. Really another level of mid-palate and finishing flavour, yet less balanced and certainly less easy to drink than the 1995 – to start. One-third stays in the bottle for day 2 – and what a change! Balanced, younger impression, just delicious wine – here for the first time with a small accent of whole-clusters. Delicious and with real depth too – Right now I’d suggest decanting – the aeration really made a difference!
Rebuy – Yes

weekend wines – week 32 2017

Three super wines this weekend!

2014 Château Pommard, Pommard Clos Marey-Monge
There’s no doubting the ambition here; a new bottle design (shape), and an impressively wide, if Screwpull unfriendly neck, then there’s the new label design. It doesn’t stop there, there’s the oak too:
A good depth of colour, and a nose that’s creamily, spicily oaked – but with attractive and inviting dimensions of aroma. Frankly, cold (from the fridge – it’s summer!) this smells oaky and it tastes even oakier – but let it slowly warm in the glass and it relaxes. There’s a little fine-grained tannin – but with no astringence – and there’s an attractive sweetness to the fruit too. Cold I would have said way over-oaked for the material in the bottle, but at a correct temperature – say 16-18°C – this simply tastes like a young wine of good potential. It’s even a wine that finally becomes relatively easy to drink, yet with fine flavour dimension. Patience is required, but this is excellent Pommard – I’d even go as far as to say – yum!
Rebuy – Yes

2007 Chezeaux/Ponsot, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Charmes
The last vintage with ‘real’ cork.
Rather a modest depth of colour and just a little age to that colour too. The nose has lots of depth – without reduction – silky fruit, like a plum tart with a cherry topping – time in the glass and the notes are becoming higher-toned and more precise – lovely! Wide, lush but fresh, a little saline and certainly nicely mouth-watering in the finish – and what an impressive length of finish! Good dimension of attractive but never ‘simple’ flavour. Like most 2007s, this is drinking very well now. I’m reminded that after tasting 2007s in barrel, I described them as 2000s but better – and how good have the 2000s been for the last 5 years? I’m still more than happy with that characterisation – after a sticky, tricky start the 2007s are now coming good!
Rebuy – Yes

2005 Henri Naudin-Ferrand, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Rouge ‘Orchis Mascula’
I remember this wine from 5 years ago when it showed a gothic level of stems – it really wasn’t a thing of beauty – fortunately, time has done it many favours.
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose has lots of depth, no reduction, and still a little steminess, but with no aromatic astringence or discord – more a floral aspect and a suggestion of connected pyrazine. In the mouth this has come on leaps and bounds; there’s a rush of fresh, and sweetly mouth-watering, flavour, still a little grain of tannin. This wine is, today, simply delicious while still showing its stylistic roots – bravo!
Rebuy – Yes
This latter wine is so much more enjoyable than it was 5 years ago – and interestingly, the back label suggests that it should be at its optimum between 2008 and 2012. For this 2005, wrong. It is just so massively better now than in 2012 – at that time it was certainly interesting, but definitely not delicious!

a beaujolais harvest update…

Saint Amour, 24 July 2017.

(Translated) From Inter Beaujolais:
Ripening takes its course in the vineyards of Beaujolais: On average we are 15 days ahead of the maturity progress in 2016 – veraison (grapes changing colour) appears to be closer to early vintages such as 2007, 2009, 2011 and 2015.

Overall, the sunny and dry weather since the Spring has both pushed the development in the vineyards and helped keep a remarkably good health, such that fewer treatments have been needed this year. There is some ‘water stress’ due to lack of rain, which will be a volume-limiting factor in many sectors. If we add to this the impact of hail in northern Beaujolais, we are heading towards an average volume harvest.

July has been very dry, leaving small berries, which provides hope for a good concentration of juice and phenolic materials.

great offer today…

I don’t, as a rule, give names and links to offers, because it’s a little ‘too’ commercial for this site, I prefer to give market indications without naming the merchants, but this is simply a great offer:

I really rated this Clos Vougeot in my vintage write-up chez Prieur, and this is a throwback to pre-2005 prices! Of-course those are Swiss francs and you have to live in Switzerland, probably…

mid-week, back in the saddle

Getting back into the swing of things:

2015 Louis Max, Rully Les Plantenays
Well, there’s something of creme brulee nose here – attractive, yet I’m now anticipating plenty of oak. The palate retains a freshness and deliciousness, despite some padding – an oak augmentation to plenty of lemony action. Super in its oaked vernacular which means that I don’t think I’d want to take two glasses in a row, but I’m very happy with the one!
Rebuy – No

2010 Raveneau, Chablis 1er Butteaux
Not really stony like the the 2012, rather the nose has a cushioned depth of fresh lemon. The attack is the first impression, backed-up by a richness and silkiness of texture and concentration – hand in hand. The mid-palate just melts over your tongue in absolutely delicious fashion. Certainly mineral and beautifully proportioned in the finish. Magnificent 1er cru…
Rebuy – Yes

1993 Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Boucherottes
I don’t know many bottled Boucherottes – I’ve seen this, there’s Le Grappin and (I think) AF Gros, and…
A good, strong cork despite being quite wine-soaked. Good colour – ie plenty of depth but no browning. The nose is tarry, slowly adding floral components, before slowly adding deeper, dark fruit references. The palate is, likewise, a tarry affair but with fine dark cherry fruit. The complexion is fresh, with a growing intensity but is also very silky. Truth be told, this is still a very young wine, but I’ve no problem refreshing the glass. Yum!
Rebuy – Yes

today’s walk in chablis

Chablis Grand Cru Valmur, 10th August 2017 – after the rain.

Due to the rain, it was a modest tour in the muddy grand crus of Chablis. I would say a rather meagre looking quantity of fruit on the vines if compared to the Côte de Beaune, but like in the Côte d’Or, no obvious signs of rot, et-cetera…

Oh, and did I mention the temperature? 13°C at 3 in the afternoon – brrr… Back to 30° on Monday, says google weather…

touring the vines in the côte de beaune

Starting in Beaune, finishing with coffee in Puligny. We started in sunshine, ending with threatening, dark cloud – still a little muggy but dry.

Here in the Côte de Beaune we are 3-4 weeks from harvesting and there looks to be plenty of grapes on the vines – in good shape too – there is a little loss due to sunburn, but I saw neither oïdium, nor rot. The grape clusters are all of varying colours and sweetness for now – or sourness – it depends how you want to look at it 🙂

Fingers crossed!


Ta-da! Back from 8 days on the island of Sicily.

It’s relatively easy to summarise the time – lots of chilling despite 38°C – sometimes more.

What we liked (usually a lot):

  • The people
  • The food
  • The landscape
  • The (nero d’avola) wine – €13-20 in a restaurant…
  • Cefalu
  • Siracusa – actually the ‘island’ of Ortigia – it’s connected by a couple of bridges. My favourite!
  • Our hotel
  • Warm brioche with ice-cream!
  • 2 espressi for €1.80!

What we didn’t like:

  • The litter
  • The litter
  • The litter
  • The litter…

Now back to Beaune – later today a wander in the vines to see how things look – there will be harvesting in 3 weeks!

weekend wines – week 30 2017

2012 Raveneau, Chablis 1er Butteaux
I was lucky enough to drink the 2010 of this at Au Fils Du Zinc. in Chablis, last month, and it was open, ready and fabulous. This wine is also fabulous, but it’s a long-way away from being ‘ready.’ The nose is all rocks and citrus – it’s a great invitation to drink. The palate has a tight minerality but from the end of the mid-palate into the finish it opens out and the flavours hold tenaciously. Not yet delicious, but certainly tasty and rather compelling and moreish too. Super stuff – but wait 3-5 years while drinking the 2010 – if you are so lucky!
Rebuy – Yes

2004 Pierre Bourée, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos St.Jacques
The cork is soaked right through but manages not to break in half – I expect because it slides out so easily – probably best that this bottle was now opened, given this cork. Quite a deep colour, the nose starts with an overt pyrazine, but shaded differently to when young. Slowly but surely there’s a nice, slightly plummy, but still fresh, dark fruit on the nose – it’s an intriguing nose and quite inviting at the same tine. Supple, silky entry, a slowly growing grain of tannin into the mid-palate and finish. That minerally pyrazine note is more forward on the palate than on the nose, making the finish just a little bitter. I couldn’t for a moment describe this as delicious, but am happy to stay with intriguing. Overall, complex, interesting, and I would say starting to drink – certainly it’s a much easier drink now than when it was young!
Rebuy – No

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