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patchworks, repeats and aubert…

The 18-20°C of the last days has disappeared under the clouds and the spitting rain today – about 5°C for the record. But the vineyards still have that great patchwork impression as the different domaines plough – or not, and prune – or not, at their own pace.

The lunchtime menu du jour contained andouillettes today – as part of my total immersion, I take them without hesitation – the last couple of mouthfuls even tasted pretty good (it seemed) – but boy did those flavours repeat and cause reflux 5 hours later during a modest jog – sacre-bleu!

Finally, a link that you really should make some time for: Aubert de Villaine in conversation – definitely worth 1 hour of your time! https://t.co/Fj18Nh9F2C

busy alex…

signed
Christophe Buisson and Alex Gambal sign at last – pic from Alex.

Hmm – what a good story:-)

This deal took a very long time to finalise, but now ‘Domaine Alex Gambal’ is exploiting the following:

Appellation Surface (ha)
Chassagne En L’Ormeau 0.13
Chassagne 1er Cru La Maltroie 0.20
Batard Montrachet 0.18
Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseigneres 0.30
Puligny Montrachet 0.83
Aligoté vers Melin 0.60
Auxey Duresses Rouge 0.55
St. Romain Rouge 0.97
St. Romain Blanc 1.69
Haute Cote De Beaune Blanc 0.33
Bourgogne Rouge 2.47
Bourgogne Blanc 0.37
Volnay 0.49
Pommard Les Lambots 0.21
Beaune Clos du Mont Désiré 0.46
Savigny Les Beaune 1.01
Chorey Les Beaune 0.46
NSG 1erCru Les Argillieres 0.32
11.57

late afternoon views from above beaune…

Visually the weather has been the same all week – but today I was in a shirt and shorts – and that was before jogging up to the ‘mountain’ of Beaune!

20°C today – lovely – and just a little cherry-blossom too. I love the delineation of the vineyards right now – you can make out almost every one of different producers’ plots in Beaune Grèves…

a little clos de vougeot action from today…

Today was the ‘Trilogy’ tasting for the villages of Morey, Chambolle and Vosne – in the Château de Clos de Vougeot – and in beautiful spring weather too.

To be honest, you have no chance to taste everything – well I haven’t and be semi-cogent anyway.

So today I chose to visit every wine (in the room!) from Chambolle in 2013 – no mean feat – there was about 70 of them dotted around the scrums of tasters. I started on the dot at 10h00, took a couple of breathers – actually coolers as the room was getting warm – a 45 minute lunch, and still finished only at 16h00. Actually, my last wine was only a half Chambolle-Musigny -?- okay, just the word Chambolle was missing from the label ;-)

a little nsg action from yesterday…

It was the Hospices de Nuits auction on Sunday – and despite it being quite cool, the skies were fine and clear for the visitors…

jadot’s 2001 clos st.jacques…

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2001 Louis Jadot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos St.Jacques
Medium, medium-plus colour. The initial aroma is of a slightly mushroomy red fruit, but slowly, slowly the fruit becomes purer and more interesting. In the mouth there’s good weight of fruit and a fine balance too – yet – there’s just a little lack of energy here – the wine is tasty though. Today, this bottle, doesn’t show any impressive ‘Clos St.Jacques-ness’ but it’s still a good wine for the price paid en-primeur – less-so for today’s market-price though.
Rebuy – Maybe

updated burgundy vintage chart – now includes 2013 vintage

vintage-2012

There, that’s finally done!

My updated Burgundy Vintage Chart now includes 2013 – though with ratings still in parentheses as it is still so young!

half a dozen from Martel…

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Tasted courtesy of Martel of St.Gallen, in the Hotel Schweizerhof, Luzern – 10 March, 2015.

Nice location and a brilliant room to taste in. The glasses weren’t the best, they seemed to attenuate the aromas, but overall, nicely done. Here are a few wines that I haven’t tasted for a while:

2013 William Fevre, Chablis Champs Royaux
Deep aroma, with some ripe fruit at the base. Wide and with good freshness, a hint of richer texture but also of some minerality. Good balance here and nice enough intensity.
Rebuy – Maybe

2011 William Fevre, Chablis 1er Vaillons
The nose is round with a hint of salt over a suggestion of something riper. Lovely in the mouth, much nicer than the nose suggests. A fine direct flavour that lasts well on tasty acidity – indeed very tasty!
Rebuy – Yes

2011 Leflaive, Mâcon-Verzé
Half cheesy aromatic but something is more vibrant below – fortunately. Mineral, lithe and flows well over the tongue, intense too in the finish. More mineral than fruit but no shame there! The nose slowly improves in the glass making this an interesting proposition.
Rebuy – Maybe

2011 Remi Jobard, Meursault 1er Poruzots-Dessus
The nose shows something a little mineral and with a core of something fresh and fruity. Very fine direct flavour with slowly growing complexity and width – maybe it could be fresher-still given the vine location, but that’s being picky. There’s still a bit of creamy barrel in this finish, but it’s really a moreish wine of some quality!
Rebuy – Yes

Les Rouges:

2011 Arlot, Nuits St.Georges 1er Clos des Fôrets
There’s some weight of aroma – the nose seems a little tight in these glasses. Fresh, and with depth of flavour and a little structure. Lovely flavour in the mid-palate into the finish too, with just the merest suggestion of drying from the modest tannin. Good wine.
Rebuy – Yes

2011 Confuron-Cotetidot, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Suchots
Ripe fruit blended with a forward pyrazine aromatic – ouch! Lovely cushioned texture with some modest astringency to the tannin and, again, a hard to miss pyrazine component. The finish is pretty and lingering though.
Rebuy – No

the two gorgeous weekend wines..

Of-course there were more than 2 bottles at dinner on Saturday, but what value is a eulogy on a ’29 Musigny with a dark past?

DSC06014-1
I only have young wines at the apartment in Beaune, but luckily they were yum!

2012 Joseph Voillot, Volnay 1er Caillerets
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is a little more pinot than Volnay to start, but slowly it adds a higher, floral dimension too – is there a hint of vanilla? Not sure… In the mouth there’s certainly some undertow of barrel vanilla but there is also a beautifully transparent and balanced wine, with just a little cushioning and gorgeous mouth-watering flavour. I have hardly any of this, so it was opened with some trepidation, but what a wine – simply excellent – and it got better and better!
Rebuy – Yes

2012 Comte Liger-Belair, Vosne-Romanée La Colombière
Medium, medium-plus colour, again. The nose is more Liger-Belair than Vosne with its floral notes that suggest whole clusters, but slowly there’s also a fine-fruited undertow to compliment those flowers. There isn’t the same weight of concentration as the Volnay, but there’s a beautiful, almost hauntingly direct line of finely focused flavour. Another wine that was simply excellent and kept evolving!
Rebuy – Yes

spring?

It was only 13°C this afternoon, but the wind is gone and it felt like 20°.

So a nice touristy tour :-)

friday…

A little typing, a little tasting but mainly email today, though clearly the weather has shaken-off the flurry of hail from the other night – there’s still a chilly wind, but wall-to-wall blue sky in the Côte d’Or…

Also there’s a dinner on Saturday and I only have young wines with me in Beaune – but this pair don’t look too bad I think ;-)

updating – just an average week – sort-of…

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Bern, courtesy Bern Tourismus.

Well yesterday I opened the booking for the Paulée Suisse – I’m very pleased to see how it’s coming together. See for yourself here.

DSC06008Then, just for the fun (I suppose!) we had hail yesterday in Beaune – about 17h45 – it looked like snow to start with, but got harder! Hopefully there’s not much more of that this year.

To reduce the consequence of the weather, I found the Crémant of Collet highly effective! Made from Petit Chablis, it’s direct, fresh and very moreish without undue sweetness… Yum!

Last week saw the publication of my first subscription report of this year – from all my visits in January (now I’m starting to type up all my visits from February – ouf – no rest ;-) ) Anyway, this was the Chablis 2013 report – 34 domaines visited to taste – 50% up on last year. Not an easy vintage if you are looking for ‘pure’ Chablis, but tasty wines all the same.

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