Tasted in Charnay with Jean Paul Brun, 23 February 2024.
Domaine des Terres Dorées
565 route d’Alix
69380 Charnay-en-Beaujolais
Tel: +33 4 78 47 93 45
www.terresdorees.fr (not yet online)
More reports with Domaine des Terres Dorées
Jean Paul on 2021 and a little on 2022:
“We are a bit later here so we had a bit of rain before the 2023 harvest so that was good. The volume was fine and we had no hail. We had some high degrees – so we harvested quickly – the wines fermented okay in the cuverie- For 2022, all has been bottled. We had a little less than in 23. It’s another vintage with ‘maturity.’ In 2022, the tannins are very soft – it’s a warm year and we normally have to wait for those but the structure of these wines is so supple…”
The wines…
It’s a super vintage for the domaine with a number of wines that are worth a special search to find…
Mainly Nomacorc this year – still some corks for some of the crus but from 23 all will be Nomacorc.
2022 Beaujolais Rosé de Folie
A sweetly attractive nose – that’s a great invitation. Supple, growing in width, nicely textured – oh, and completely delicious. Yes and nicely moneral finishing too – super rosé!
2022 Beaujolais Le Ronsay
A majority of young vines are here. ‘A wine for the fruit’ all-natural yeast, some pigeage. Not a wine with great pretention but something to replace a rosé!’
A nose with some vibration of energy. A touch of CO2 but mouth-filling and energetic – the flavours are framed with a modest grain of tannin – and a very lovely finish – what a super entry wine.
2022 Beaujolais l’Anciene (not Le Buissey)
Vines of about 70-years-old – the old vines cuvée.
High-toned, airy width of aroma. Hmm, that’s quite a direct flavour, sweeping, with fine texture and intensity. The finish is a strong and long one… Essentially more sophisticated than the Ronsay.
2022 Beaujolais l’Ancien Buissey
‘Not made every year as I don’t want to take anything away from the previous wine.’ Two parcels – 50 and 60 year-old vines.
A very red fruited nose – almost a little redcurrant style. Broad and of very lovely flavour energy – also very red, I like the nose. A lovely weight of finishing flavour again – completely delicious.
Here facing the rising sun.
Also vibrantly red-fruited – a little deeper in this case. Extra depth and dimensions of flavour – but with juicy energy. An excellent wine! And what depth to this finishing flavour. Top!
2022 St.Amour
A calmer width of aroma – fine and precise. More direct, the freshness of acidity more visible. But much flavour complexity is visible in the middle and finishing flavours – again quite red fruit. Finishing with depth and lovely complexity – that’s a great finish.
2022 Fleurie
5 ha of 45 yo vines from Grille Midi but JP puts the climat name only on the selection of vines of over 60 years old – a south-facing amphitheatre – ‘it’s hard in the hot years to keep control of the maturity’
A more ample breadth and depth of aroma. Large scale – deliciously – and properly – Fleurie flavoured. Supple, layered and absolutely delicious – Excellent wine again.
2022 Morgon
2.5 ha in Bellevue – not a lot of soil here.
This has a darker and more incisive red fruit aroma and slowly a fine floral perfume too. Wide and vibrant – darker red fruit again. Lovely finishing. A super wine.
Foot of the hill, east-facing, sixth vintage.
Extra depth and a cherry stone style to these flavours. Wide – extra clarity and fluidity to these flavours and shape. A wine that’s quite direct but gorgeously flavoured in the middle and finish – a little perfume visible here too. Bravo!
2022 Moulin-a-Vent
All from Tour de Bief
A calmer nose – some width but less forward. But a wine that explodes with volume and energy over the palate – framed with a small grain of tannin – not drying. This really has some concentration but balance too. A super wine.
Also a smaller nose – but with impressive depth and a slowly growing higher-toned perfume. Extra volume and fluidity – and certainly much more overt, finishing flavour complexity – probably a great wine.
Here the nose is already broader and has good depth too – not as classy as the previous crus but more open. Fine and fluid in the mouth – cool flavour, texturally velvet. That’s completely delicious – bravo Bourgogne! €18 from a caviste but it’s worth it !!
2021(!) Fleurie Grille-Midi
Also Grille-Midi but 1950-1955 planted old vines – never more than 25 hl/ha
Hmm – here is density but an attractively airy top perfume too. Direct but fluid – lots of concentration but always mobile and energetic. A little more overtly structural in the finish and with a nice lick of salinty…
Close to the Moulin.
A calm but deep nose – some higher perfumed tones too – almost vertical. Fresh, direct but supported by a proper structure. A very fluid and delicious style here – less obviously sweet than the 22s but a beauty – I think it a great 21
A big nose the fruit has a certain accent of cooked fruit. But in the mouth, silky and fluid – clearly more concentration than the 21 – possibly more than the 22s too. The finish is multi-dimensional – that’s the best finishing flavour and allied complexity of the day – without doubt!
Les Blancs
Fewer whites here in terms of cuvées, but it’s an important volume for the domaine – more than 25% of the volume. ‘We prune Guyot so 8-9 buds, that’s quite modest:‘
2022 Beaujolais Chardonnay Classic
Tank elevage on lees with malo done – No barrels used here.
levage on lees, malo done, a little batonnage but no oak.
A freshness and a little mineral depth – less width than many today. In the mouth a modest cushion of generosity and a delicious finishing width of flavour. That’s a very classy BJB – an excellent one, even!
2022 Beaujolais Blanc
2 thirds 228-l barrel elevage and the rest in foudres.
A more concentrated, rounder core of ripe citrus visible here. Really wide, more generous for sure than the ‘classic’ – framed with a small grain of tannin. More contemplative and sweetly finishing than it’s brother. Long though. My personal style preference is the former, yours may be to this – it’s also an excellent Beaujolais Blanc.
Cremant Charme
36 months of elevage for a 2020 base wine – brut/extra brut – 5g of dosage.
Ooh that’s juicily delicious – mouth-watering and what a refreshing finish. A simply top crémant!