Tasted in Belleville-en-Beaujolais with Alexandre Iwasuila, 13 February 2024.
SCEA du Chateau Cambon
348 Rte de Frans
69220 Belleville-en-Beaujolais
Tel: +33 4 74 66 24 08
Domaine Instagram
It’s not that easy to find historical info on Château Cambon – not before 1995 anyway.
Monty Waldin relates that: “The Cambon estate was planted originally in 1914 in three parcels in an area between Morgon and Brouilly on mixed clay-granite and calcareous sands. More vineyards were subsequently added in Brouilly. These had been conventionally farmed (many missing vines…) and which immediately went into organic conversion.”
With a laugh, Alexandre Iwasuila, who has been at the domaine since 2022, relates that pre-1995 – old articles described the place as the worst domaine in Beaujolais.
So that’s a couple of times that 1995 has been mentioned, and also that the domaine converted to organic viticulture about the same time – clearly there’s a link! The link is the purchase of the domaine/château by two people who (clearly!) wanted a little challenge: Marcel Lapierre and Jean-Claude Chanudet. For many years the estate was managed Marie Lapierre (Marcel’s widow) and Jean-Claude Chanudet, of course, the vineyards have been managed with the same respect as their personal domaines – and the winemaking too – Jean-Claude making the wines as well as those of his home domaine for many years.
The cord is slowly being cut and Alexandre is centre stage for the domaine. Alexandre notes that the domaine was never certified organic but that the soils had been worked like Lapierre since the beginning – the 1995 beginning – but that certification is now underway. Jean-Claude has still been helping with the vinifications. In 2016 the domaine bought some Brouilly and in 2018 they planted 2 hectares of chardonnay in front of the domaine – on clay. Alexandre has stopped making their cuvée of Rosé to make both Beaujolais and Pet Nat. “We make semi-carbo vinifications, use no sulfur – except sometimes just before bottling and the 19 hectare the domaine exploits sees 70% of the production being exported from France.”
Alexandre on 2022:
“22 was complicated – not just because it was my first vintage – but also because we started harvesting on the 25th August in 37°C temperatures! So we were starting very early in the morning, cooling the grapes and finishing in the vines in the early afternoon. These 2022s are starting to bottle in March – though not for the nouveau!”
The wines…
You are always learning! I admit I didn’t know of this domaine or its history – but the wines are beauties – it’s not going to be my last visit 😉
2022 Chateau Cambon Beaujolais
That’s a very inviting, floral perfumed, nose. In the mouth, light, juicy – with a nice sucrosity – large foudre elevage. There’s a very attractive finishing intensity too – that’s a beauty and right to the end, always with a hint of perfume in the flavours.
1.08 ha in Cercié – the other side of the road from the Brouilly appellation. A ‘micro-cuvée’ 4k bottles.
Also a width of slightly darker but very perfumed aroma – this time with a faint spice. Extra depth and silkier texture. This is more overtly concentrated and has great style – finishing very long. I think that could be a great Villages!
2 ha in 2 parcels – with different orientations – so needs two harvests – ‘for us a more elegant wine but it keeps very well.’
A more direct nose with a more red fruit style. Incisive, cool fruit – but broad over the palate – you sense a little extra (cru!) structure – the balance is lovely here – not the excess of concentration and ripeness that can often be seen in Brouilly – another winner!
JC Chanudet had never vinified white and thought it would be fun! Vines planted in soil with some clay next to the chateau. 11.5° only 10% barrel elevage – always the first harvested parcel as we don’t have the limestone for minerality – so we keep the acidity.
Pretty peach aromas almost fresh pear, lightly sweet but very inviting. Hmm – incisive but then widening out and melting over the palate – very slowly fading – wow – that’s a great BJB!
And a 2023?
“We think that 23 is going to be a super vintage – we will take our time to bottle it – except this one:”
2023 Pet Nat
Directly pressed gamay – no sulfur – disgorged in January
Lightly coloured – from the gamay. Lightly floral with quite exotic flowers. Mouth-filling with plenty of bubbles – some rigour here – almost a minerality but balanced by a subtle sweetness – the last flavours of ripe pear. I think this could be dangerously drinkable. Yum!