Entries from 2021

“if you must have Jayer – any Jayer for your own cellar – this was a one-off. In the modern world this was as good as it gets” – part 2!

By billn on May 07, 2021 #the market

Those were my words 3 years ago – Of course, you didn’t think it would end like that, did you?

Hey presto! Here comes part 2!

Baghera - Jayer 2
Image from Baghera…

It is Baghera, once more, championing perfect provenance bottles from Henri Jayer – or more correctly – the eldest daughter of Henri, Lydie.

Or are they perfect provenance?

The source is, of course, paramount but so are the storage conditions. Jayer’s old lock-up was hardly the creme de la creme of storage facilities and for the last 3 years since they were relabelled for the previous Baghera-Jayer sale, how were these wines kept? There are no answers to be found here and for sure I don’t expect such considerations to dissuade the bidders…

You may peruse the lots, if you wish, here.

mid-weekers, week 18 2021…

By billn on May 07, 2021 #degustation

midweek wines week 18 2021

Last weekend there were no wines for me – but not because I was on the wagon – rather because I received my first covid-jab on Friday evening – Pfizer – so I let that do its thing before opening something a couple of days later…

2019 Yvon & Laurent Vocoret, Chablis
Whilst I personally prefer DIAM for whites, here is a winemaker with convictions – it’s cork but even for his entry-level Chablis, it’s NDtech cork! No cheap alternatives here.
A forward of aroma here – attractive and deep, reflections of fresh citrus. Good energy and not with the forward sweetness that many recent Chablis show chez Nanson – but still all the deliciousness of 2019 – I prefer this. Structurally sound, suggesting some salinity in the finish – that’s an excellent and delicious Chablis.
Rebuy – Yes

2006 Albert Bichot, Beaune 1er Champimonts
Plenty of depth to this colour and it’s now starting to show a little age. Creamy, some depth of more mature notes – and some, now, attractive last vestiges of oak. Ooh, that‘s a rather silky texture and there’s concentration here too. A width of flavour, sweetness of old fruit and still some (now) quite modest bitters – probably originally from the oak but still bringing a sense of dryness to the texture. The nose is getting better and better with time – freshening up and becoming more fruit-focused. It’s drinking but in terms of the submerged depth of tannin and those finishing bitters, still far from a fully ready or fully delicious wine. If I had more – I don’t know if I do! – I’d be tempted to wait for its 20th birthday. I’ll have to find something nicer for the weekend…
Rebuy – No

offer of the day – clos de tart 2019

By billn on May 06, 2021 #the market


Today in my inbox; here are the Clos de Tart 2019s and you can compare these prices to those of the 2018, 2017 & 2016 prices which are in the brackets. — indicates ‘not offered.’ It now looks like the new owners are looking for some payback on their investment…

Clos de Tart Grand Cru 2019 75cl 595.00, (498.00, 498.00, 448.00)* Swiss francs
Clos de Tart Grand Cru 2019 150cl — (1,050.00, 1,026.00, 926.00)
Clos de Tart Grand Cru 2019 300cl 2,630 (2,300.00, 2,042, 2,042.00)
La Forge de Tart 1er Cru 2019 75cl — (189.00, 169.00, 188.00)

* Including delivery, but not including Swiss purchase tax of 7.7%

more frost in 2021…

By billn on May 04, 2021 #vintage 2021

Last week I noted many vineyards still with frost candles waiting to be collected – it seems it wasn’t a case of the owners being lazy, rather they were waiting for more cold weather.

Overnight 02-03 May – so yesterday morning – the temperatures dipped again. In certain sectors of the Hautes-Côtes such as Chevannes and Villars, or villages lower down such as Marsannay, Gevrey, Vosne & Premeaux – even Meursault and Chassagne too – the temperatures, once more, sunk below zero. The thermometers registering between –2° and –3°C in some places. Some vigneron(ne)s have posted pictures on Instagram today of sad looking leaves.

It’s still too early to say what the effect of this year’s frosts will be, but this clearly hasn’t helped.

March 2021 Burgundy Report

By billn on May 04, 2021 #reports

March 2021 Burgundy Report


Largely still concentrating on the 2019 vintage, here is an equal mix of domaines that are new here and some more familiar names – if not colours 🙂

Additionally, you will find an extensive tasting of 2018 Beaune 1er Crus – whites too. As you may see, despite the potential – and in some places actual – excesses of the 2018 vintage, here all is calmer – indeed delicious.


this week’s views…

By billn on April 29, 2021 #travels in burgundy 2021

All you need to know in the images 😉

wines from weekend 16, 2021

By billn on April 26, 2021 #degustation

wines - week 16 2021

2018 Dubreuil-Fontaine, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Clos Berthet
Modestly yellow coloured. An incisive, fresh nose with a touch of oak and even some aniseed. Hmm, that’s a lovely wine, just a slight depth of cushioning but still with fresh energy and even a little salinity too. Slowly widening as it lingers in the finish. Easy but delicious.
Rebuy – Yes

2005 Gaston & Pierre Ravaut, Ladoix 1er Le Bois Roussot
A good strong cork in this one
Medium-plus colour that’s starting to show a little age. Ooh + now thats a very lovely nose – roast red fruit but with a vibration of deeper aromas, partly from a little maturity – that’s a great invitation. Wide over the palate, a wine that quickly grows in mouth-watering intensity and then sustains a lovely finish. There are many Cortons in other vintages that are less accomplished than this. A wine that’s really starting to come into a great place…
Rebuy – Yes

And you noted a third wine, didn’t you! I got 3 of these Gevreys as part a mixed auction lot around 2009. The first bottle was eminently drinkable around that time – a second more recent bottle was not, all mean and astringent, what charm it once had was departed. I didn’t even taste this one, it went straight into the beef bourguignon – and that, let me tell you, was delicious!!!

offer of the day – william fevre 2019

By billn on April 23, 2021 #the market

From my usual Swiss importer source. The prices of the 2018s, 2017s, 2016s and 2015s from previous years are in brackets for you to compare (— means not offered).

CHABLIS Village 75cl — (22.00, 22.00, 22.00, 19.00) Swiss Francs*
CHABLIS Vaillons 75cl 39.50 (—)
CHABLIS Montée de Tonnerre 75cl 49.50 (48.00, 48.00, 45.00, 42.00)
CHABLIS Preuses 75cl 79.50 (78.00, 78.00, 75.00, 65.00)
CHABLIS Preuses 150cl — (161.00, —)
CHABLIS Bougros Côtes de Bouquerots 75cl 84.00 (79.00, 79.50, 79.00, 65.00)
CHABLIS Les Clos 75cl 98.00 (94.00, 89.00, 89.00, 75.00)
CHABLIS Les Clos 150cl 211.00 (193.00, —)

Probably the ‘advantageous’ yields of 2018 offset any price increases in 2018, not so in 2019 – many great wines here though, and for the last couple of vintages I’ve found the Preuses a better wine – if only marginally – that the Côtes de Bouquerots. A shame that they are not offering the villages in 2019, that said, I seem to have bought enough other wines in Chablis this year!
*The prices are ‘delivered’ but will attract another 7.7% Swiss purchase tax.

Burgundy Report

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