Entries from 2020

offer of the day – bonneau du martray 2018 (and older)

By billn on July 11, 2020 #asides

The domaine is continuing its offering of ‘library’ wines as last year, their pricing is also unchanged versus last year.

CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE 2018 75cl 229.00 (*Swiss Francs)
CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE 2018 150cl 475.00
CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE 2017 75cl 229.00
CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE 2016 75cl 209.00
CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE 2010 75cl 229.00
CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE 2008 75cl 219.00
CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE 2000 75cl 229.00
CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE 1993 75cl 239.00

I love magnums, but these seem rather too expensive.
As a guide, domaine Corton-Charlemagne starts at about €75** these days, and you can find some very fine versions under €100. Those sought-after wines such as chez Bouchard Père or Henri Boillot are closer €150, so there’s still a very significant premium here. I assume that DRC’s first vintage (2019, ex the Bonneau du Martray vineyards) will be priced higher though. I expect about €300-400 from the domaine’s representatives – let’s see.
*As always, these swiss franc prices are delivered but lack the 7.7% Swiss VAT…
**Add about 10% for the price in Swiss francs

my thanks to the vigneron(ne)s of puligny, week 28 2020

By billn on July 10, 2020 #travels in burgundy 2020

Of-course not all based in Puligny, but all with vines in Puligny 🙂

My July report will be looking at the important vineyards of that village – many more visits to do over the next 2-3 weeks – but this week with the help of Jadot, Drouhin, Bouzereau, Terres de Velle and Sauzet…

Puligny - week 1

Value in Burgundy?

By billn on July 09, 2020 #warning - opinion!

Nick Jackson MW made a suggestion for producers per village. I found some great suggestions but also some reliance on négoce wines and relatively high priced producers too:

There’s definitely a homogeneity of pricing in Vosne, Meursault, Puligny & Chassagne that’s hard to avoid, but by going some way off the ‘beaten track‘ of producers I came up with a counter-suggestion – but what do you think? Remember I’m trying to capture ‘value’ so great quality and a good price.

PS I tried to associate producers with the village in question but be based in the same village. I made a mistake with Fougeray de Beauclair – they are based in Marsannay, not Fixin – but I had anyway included them for their Fixin Clos Marion!

vintage 2020, the current status

By billn on July 08, 2020 #vintage 2020

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les FolatièresSo far, it looks like the 2020 vintage has the chance to be remembered for the quality of its wines, more than as the covid vintage.
Right, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Folatières, yesterday

The vine development continues apace and, to date, the vines have neither water nor mineral constraints – the former having been taken care of by the rain of May and June. May had many more hours of sunshine than the average, June slightly less. We are just passing the 30°C barrier this week, but have seen none of the 35-42°C temperatures of the last 2-3 years – not yet, anyway!

In the Côte d’Or, and already for a week, the very first grape clusters with veraison (colour change) have been seen, but these the are the most precocious of outliners and most typically seen in the youngest of vines. In general, the clusters have not yet fully closed up – except where there is some serious millerandage closure typically happens before any colour-change. That said, the next 10 days or-so should see a much wider start to veraison.

The only cloud in this growing season, so far, is that oïdium is becoming more of a concern – for the whites in particular. Some growers have suggested to me that if it gets a lot worse they may be forced to consider some systemic treatments and exit whatever organic certifications they may have been pursuing. The last treatments should be made no less than 30 days before harvesting, so the window for those last treatments is slowly closing.

Reading all of the available bulletins shows a vintage that remains comparable to 2011 in terms of its timing, though one important producer of Chambolle-Musigny noted that, given the current rate of development, he will probably be harvesting his earliest parcel of pinot around the 22nd of August! Some producers have already started doing the unthinkable – they are now going on holiday in July instead of August – and that’s because the harvest will be so early.

At this stage, the producers seem to be having fewer problems finding pickers than in the most recent vintages, but how to deal with social distancing for lodgers and the worker that they feed, still needs to have some thought! Of course, we can’t ignore the possibility of a second wave of covid infections, with this in mind, the people who would rent you a machine to pick your grapes, are practically overbooked!

it’s warming up nicely!

By billn on July 07, 2020 #travels in burgundy 2020#vintage 2020

Just a few pictures, taken today, from between Montrachet and Folatières in the commune of Puligny-Montrachet.

At 8 am I was happy to be wearing a sweatshirt – no-longer at 9 am. Almost 30° today and a couple of degrees warmer is possible in the next days…

week 27 2020 in Burgundy

By billn on July 03, 2020 #travels in burgundy 2020

visits week 27 2020
My thanks to the vigneron(ne)s who hosted me this week – all of whom will be in the next Burgundy Report…

At this stage of the growing season, the growers are generally happy with their lot. They have had enough rain and the disease ‘pressure’ remains quite low. There seems plenty of crop – probably less than in 2018 as the number of grape-clusters per vine is more variable – but still plenty. This seems to be the consistent theme all the way from Chablis to Beaujolais.

In terms of the forthcoming (early!) harvest, most don’t seem to have a problem recruiting pickers – but with covid in mind, they are unsure how they will approach the lodging of, and their communal eating with, their harvest helpers…

And a few captioned images from the last 3 days – more next week:

the summit of sotheby’s?

By billn on July 01, 2020 #the market

1942 DRCI guess probably not!

It’s kind of ironic that the pdf for this sale is too large for me to upload to this site – rather like the size of many of the bottles that it features.

Rudy Kurniawan may be getting an early release from his 10-year prison sentence, this month, but Sotheby’s seem to be keeping their wine-ship straight with decently involved checking of provenance behind all their sales. That said, I’d want to have a lot more information about those pristine (almost new looking – right) 1942 DRCs…

We can complain about the pricing bubble of today – what else would we have to talk about if not(?!) But, from a certain perspective, great wine has never been easier to source. What do I mean by that?:

For a long time in Burgundy, those with access to the best took what they could and ‘that was that!‘ – the wines overwhelmingly disappeared, presumably largely drunk as their makers intended. It’s a different world now; many of those with access to the best see the wines more as investment vehicles than as something to consume – less the enthusiasts, more the collectors – why else so many jeroboams and larger? – Oops! Said the man with ‘too many’ magnums in his cellar 🙂

But what did I mean by a certain perspective? Well, of-course I mean money – the resources to buy these wines. There’s no getting away from the financial aspect of this, but if money is a trivial discussion point for you, you have never had it so good in terms of the opportunities to buy great burgundy. Sales like this are now every year, perhaps 2-3 times per year, and they offer wines that you couldn’t dream of acquiring 20 years ago – by practically any route!

It’s a great new world for the players – times have never been so egalitarian for the millionaires…

a few pics from the côte de nuits today….

By billn on June 30, 2020 #travels in burgundy 2020

some weekend wines – week 26 2020

By billn on June 29, 2020 #degustation

weekend wines week 26-2020

Ignoring the corked Vosne that came before the crumbly-corked Savigny, a super selection of wines here – lots of personality and deliciousness too!

2018 Marcel Couturier, Pouilly-Fuissé Les Scellés
Cork-sealed – no branding on the cork.
A lovely and energetic nose that mixes some floral perfume and a suggestion of minerality – that’s a lovely invitation to take a sip. The merest suggestion of gas on the palate and an energy that matches that of the nose. Sweetly mineral – and delicious too – bursting with extra finishing flavour. A delicious treat
Rebuy – Yes

Boisset 2005 Jarrons cork2005 JC Boisset, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Hautes Jarrons
What an awful cork – simply crumbling through the middle. Thankfully without adding insult to injury – it hadn’t tainted the wine.
Plenty of colour. Here’s a nose of depth, of complexity – even a little blood to bind with the forest floor of dried leaves – this has a suggestion of hardness too, but there’s no lacking of attractive complexity. The entry is a little modest for a 2005 but here is a wine that expands wider and wider over the palate, taking its time to show that the intrinsic concentration is good. Balanced, complex and entertaining, but for my taste still a little young today – certainly drink their 06 Monts Luisants (below) in preference to this today – and I hope you get a better cork than mine.
Rebuy – Yes

2018 Clavelier, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Les Acacias
A DIAM-sealed wine.
A floral nose – auto-suggestion acacia! There’s a little oak too – contributing not just to the aromas but perhaps to the silky texture too. Not just silky, there is a fine level of both minerality and energy here – I like the line of this wine, but would wait for the oak to fade – or perhaps decant half an hour before drinking. This is super 2018 – highly recommended so-long that you are not too oak-averse.
Rebuy – Yes

2018 Sébastien Dampt, Chablis 1er Les Beugnons
Another wine that’s sealed with DIAM – a little black wax to top the bottle too.
A deep nose, quite mineral too – almost in a reductive register. Like the nose, there’s lots of depth to this mineral flavoured wine, a wine that slowly expands to fill all the space that it can find. Super, and a rare 2018 Chablis that will obviously benefit from extra cellar time.
Rebuy – Yes

2006 JC Boisset, Morey St.Denis 1er Monts Luisants
This time the cork stayed intact
Not much more than medium colour, but what a beautiful, floral, perfumed nose – reminding of whole-cluster perfume – it’s a beauty! The perfume on the nose is a strong part of the flavour profile too. Fine balance, lovely acidity – a certain sweetness of fruit too – and whilst this wine really doesn’t lack concentration, it has a wonderfully ethereal quality. Just a brilliant wine – bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

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