Tasted in Romanèche-Thorins with Yohan Lardy, 06 February 2023.
Domaine Yohan Lardy
162 route de la Mairie,
71570 Romanèche-Thorins
Tel: +33 6 29 53 74 86
www.yohan-lardy.com
There was a lot of work going on in front of the house when I arrived – a big hole was being dug. A cellar extension? I asked – Yohan laughed – “No, it’s a new swimming pool – it’s for the kids!”
And comparing the last couple of vintages?
“2022 was also a far from easy vintage – unlike 2021 when I was 80% frosted in the white plus the constant summer rain in 21 – 22 was almost too nice but also too dry which was the problem – on the other hand it was the Indian Summer that helped us a lot in 21! All the vines around the house were completely frosted in 2022 – fortunately, they are not my vines! With the warmth of the 2022 summer, I also had a really good maturity too. The 2021 wines show the freshness of the vintage – pinoté a little. The fermentations were very easy in 21 – all done quite quickly.”
The wines…
I liked the range very much – maybe a little more consistent too vs the 2020s that were my introduction to Yohan’s wines – the 1903 is the classiest cuvée once more and worth a search – he’s sold out at the domaine.
Yohan says “I always recommend opening 15-20 minutes before drinking as I don’t use much sulfur so the wines are more serious in bottle.” The bottlings were done in Spring last year, except the VV which was done in the Summer:
2021 Chenas Deschamps
A good and forward freshness – more berry style. Round and fresh – a small framing of the flavour with tannin – velvety textured. Modest bitters then an expansion of flavour – that’s a super finish – so much more than the rest of the wine prepares you for. Lovely stuff!
2021 Moulin à Vent Les Michelons
‘The heart of the domaine – it was with these vines that I started.’
A middle breadth of aroma – this gives the impression of silk – that’s a very good nose. Extra energy, framed with a slightly grainy tannin again, and a little extra saline complexity too. Wide in the finish – quite silky here. Very good.
This parcel is also in the same climate of Les Michelons. There are no replacement vines here – ‘of course there are a few holes from missing vines – but all are original – yes one year I might have to replace them because in a big year, it’s 25 hl/ha, this year it’s only 15 hl/ha – it’s not a wine that makes any money but it’s my calling card! I did a couple of months less elevage in the foudre this year – it was ready…‘
Fresh, deep notes and higher floral notes – this is a wine of impressive complexity. The largest scale in the mouth – absolutely full of freshness – the texture is good – less grained – the intensity is growing. Some bitters – dark chocolate bitters. Vibrant, dynamic finishing – just a touch austere for today – maybe it’s already better shaped in 6-12 months but despite the vivid freshness this could be a great wine.
2021 Beaujolais Villages Blanc
80% was lost – ‘it was so wet we could hardly get into the vines, some black rot too – I’m organic so couldn’t do much about it.‘
A quite direct and energetic nose, almost the impression of sherbet and gas – but some golden citrus fruit too. Insinuating, and more and more intense – almost a little boiled sweets flavour – not so almost in the finish! Long. That’s definitely not classic Beaujolais blanc – perhaps all the better for it – it’s delicious.