Tasted in Château Thivin with Claude-Eduard Geoffray, 22 February 2023.
Château Thivin
69460 Odénas
Tel: +33 4 74 03 47 53
www.chateau-thivin.com
More reports with Château Thivin
Claude-Eduard on 2022:
“Of course, we are back to a very sunny vintage. It was a year where it was a bit harder for vinification – maybe because the pHs were a little higher – it reminds me of 2020 but we will wait to see if the wines are more powerful or not.”
Claude-Eduard on 2021:
“A similar volume to 22 – of course, a very different style of year. My aim is to make 45 hl/ha and I wasn’t so far away despite having some frost in the low and the high parts – we can’t complain as some neighbours had nothing in the same place. All are bottled and quite a lot are sold too.”
The wines…
Some of the best results in 2020 were chez Thivin but on this day, a bunch of these wines were showing in a relatively austere style. A phase since the bottling? I wouldn’t hesitate to carafe these wines today, or better still, wait 2+ years before returning. The consistency of this domaine’s achievements are probably a better indicator than this single tasting.
All the wines were in bottle:
2021 Brouilly Reverdon
Granitic, looking to the east and the hill of Brouilly and the Thivin domaine. Different label to the classic (for the Brouilly and the BV blanc) but it’s been like that since the 70s. On a pink granite – like in Chiroubles and Fleurie.
This nose has some sweetness – the colour is quite good too. Nice shape and freshness the finish has a little structure so I’d wait a year but this has a fine energetic style.
2021 Côte de Brouilly Les Sept Vignes
Here the famous bluestone soil. An assembly of their seven parcels – hence the name. ‘Normally more structured and powerful for long ageing.’ There can be two or even three bottlings of this as it’s a large cuvée
A tiny reduction. Hmm – in the mouth too – but here is a similar width and open freshness – I slightly prefer this shape but certainly a wine to take in the carafe today – maybe I’d wait 2 years!
2021 Côte de Brouilly Clos Bertrand
From in front of the château, was a vineyard for the church in the 1300s. Sheep grazing there again – in the middle of the slope – today.
Also a small reduction here – perhaps less than then the 7 Vignes. More mouth-watering – almost a cascade of flavour and energy – the finish is very good. I’d still be waiting a year for this one but it’s certainly more accessible than the ‘7’ today…
2021 Côte de Brouilly La Griottes de Brulhié
Brulhié is the old (1735) spelling of Brouilly. Mid-slope parcel, south-facing – an early ripening section.
A more open and accessible red fruit nose – slowly taking on some perfume. Extra structure – but still in a good sense – modestly grained but energetic. Larger finishing and sustained too.
2021 Côte de Brouilly Cuvée La Chapelle
Plain south-facing, the highest vines with a steep, close to 40% incline – more clay on the more fertile soil, and really needs a caterpillar tractor to be safe
Nicely airy this one but also with a more overt depth – that’s nice. Another juicy wine – this time with extra fine texture – and length too – no shame to drink this now but it will continue to bring joy for (at least) 20 more years… Excellent wine I thought – so I bought some – the first bottle opened up at home was green – oops!
2021 Côte de Brouilly Cuvée Godefroy
It’s a blend of parcels. Godefroy is the name of the lieu-dit. From very old vines – the oldest are about 100 years old – bought by Claude-Edouard’s grandfather – so in the family nearly 100 years – but it wasn’t him who planted them…
Deeper, more overt fruit here – this is very attractive. A wine of fresh structure again – whilst not really austere I could say strict – but you know how much I like strict! A really super finish – broad and deliciously lasting. Super wine but wait at least 3 years…
2021 Côte de Brouilly Cuvée Zaccharie
It was Zaccharie who bought the domaine in 1877, at that time with less than 4 hectares – Marguerite was his wife. The only wine with elevage in 228-litre barrels, all the other cuvées done in foudres. Maximum 10% new oak used here. It’s the only wine that’s a blend of terroirs – except the first one. Bottled after the harvest – around October time. There’s much less of this wine but they ‘really keep the heart of the cuvée in 2021’ – almost 40% less volume
The most open width – that’s lovely, almost a small cushion to this aromatic fruit. Silky, and beautifully shaped – there’s a small framing of the flavours – and to a lesser extent the nose – with some barrel – but not creamy. The supporting tannin is ultra-fine and shows no dryness. That will be a simply excellent wine – keep it to one side for 5 years and enjoy for the next 20 – the finish is rather haunting!
And to finish – their white:
2021 Beaujolais Villages Blanc Clos de Rochebonne
There’s a little more skin contact here – it’s overnight on the skins before pressing the next day. 460m altitude yet no frost here in 2021 – almost every year these are the last vines to be harvested.
Always the heady mix of freshness and the more exotic fruit. Direct a wine with some tension yet still with a little fat and plenty of intensity – the flavours are underpinned with a good minerality – no rigour. Excellent Beaujolais Blanc