Tasted in Denicé with Hélène Maisonneuve & Jean-Frédéric Sambardier, 03 March 2023
Manoir du Carra Sambardier
Le Carra
69640 Denicé
Tel: +33 4 74 67 38 24
www.manoir-du-carra.com
More reports with Domaine Manoir du Carra Sambardier
Jean-Frédéric on 2022:
“In 22 we had about 10 hectares that were hit with some hail near the domaine – not a problem for the quality but it certainly affected the volume. That said, I think the wines very interesting and I’m starting to bottle a couple of 22s – for instance, the Vin de France that’s mix of chardonnay and viognier.”
Jean-Frédéric on 2021:
“we suffered from the frost just about everywhere – mainly the whites – but with up to 90% losses in some places. We had a little luck because despite not so many grapes we had plenty of juice – effectively the reverse of 2022 where we had lots of grapes but not much juice!”
Breaking news – there are some new labels! Damien & Jean-Frédéric Sambardier. Also some wines from 2022 are now AB but because not all the domaine is organic (yet) it’s a different label for these.
The wines…
Always an address for very well-made wines – there are multiple excellent and delicious examples of that in 2021!
2021 Brouilly Combiatys
Always the same 4 hectares – only 35 hl/ha in 21 because of the frost here.
Airy fresh top notes over a deeper width of cherry-red fruit. Super-silky, it has a little generosity – the finish is a little timid and saline today but this is a beautiful wine in the mouth – delicious too – that could be excellent Brouilly!
2021 Fleurie Le Clos de Deduits
A little more than a hectare of vines in the higher side of Deduits and a proper Clos with walls on 3 sides
Here is a quite overt green/gentian note – a bit too much for me to describe as perfumed. In the mouth this has nice mouth-filling shape – the finish is good too. If you are insensitive to pyrazines you will find this a very good wine – there’s concentration here too.
2021 Moulin à Vent Les Burdelines
A longer elevage here – it has been in bottle not quite 2 months.
A deeper nose, and perfumed too with airy top notes. Great shape in the mouth – volume without intensity – lovely texture – a little velour. The impressive finish just keeps getting wider and wider – not austere, just young. Really a potentially excellent wine.
And to finish, less whites:
2022(!) VdF Les Cuvée des p’tits Jean
Bottled already in January. A mix of Chardonnay and viognier as a cepage ‘accessoire’ as it’s less than 15% (actually 10%) it’s not on the label.
A clean nose – a little more depth than the average chardonnay. Rich, but still mouth-watering. The finish is wide and persistent – for my taste, I’d take a bit more energy but this will still be very drinkable with a bit of chill.
Bottled 3 days… All stainless-steel elevage
A nice extra directness vs the previous. A hint of gas but still a wider and more energetic panorama than the last – becoming mouth-watering and a little more direct. The finish is broad and delicious – a wine I would happily drink at home – bravo! Persistent and with a hint of finishing tannin – super.
2021 Bourgogne Blanc Le Soly
The village of Cogny west of Villefranche. 1 ha of 30-year-old vines all hard limestone here – ‘you never taste a great gamay from here!’ Bottled just before the harvest of 22 – and already sold out / reserved
Broad, interesting, accented with some barrel. Broad, extra vibrant, delicious, complex wine – the barrel is too strong for me today – but wait 2 years. The finish is a beauty with lots of fine and interesting precisions – yes!
2021 Beaujolais Blanc
Mainly from Denicé
A broader width of aroma in the higher tones. Hmm, this is even a little more juicy – the modest minerality of the region is visible here – harder but not with rigour. The finish with a slight reduction and long – small citrus bitters here too. That’s a wine I might just wait another 6 months before attacking but it’s a lovely wine.