Tasted with Laurent Martray on the Côte de Brouilly, 22 February 2022.
Domaine Laurent Martray
749 Route du Mont Brouilly,
69460 Odenas
Tel: +33 6 14 42 04 74
www.domainelaurentmartray.com
More reports with Laurent Martray
I was happy to see that Laurent was in much better shape than last year – his arm problem much improved – also aided by his new electric secateurs!
Laurent on 2022 & 2021:
“For the 2022s I’m very happy – the volume is okay, 35-40 hl/ha so I’m not complaining. 2021 was, of course, much more complicated – I didn’t make 30 hl/ha. It was principally the maladies that were to blame – plenty of mildew, even on the grapes too. There’s a very big difference between 21 and 22. I’ve not done all the bottlings yet – just 1 so far – but if the vignerons worked well I think the wines are getting better and better with more elevage – they were quite green to start. The temperature of the tasting is important with the 21s – if you drink a little too cold it accentuates the structure and the vegetal side…”
The wines…
Laurent wasn’t happy with the vegetal-side of his 2021s during the early phases of elevage but he’s seen a lot of improvement as elevage has continued. I also see – more or less, depending on the wine – a little gentian. But the Loïs is still an absolute beauty!
2021 Brouilly Pierreux
1.96 ha.
There’s a faint width of green here but it’s the fruit that’s in control today. Supple, energetic, mobile and mouth-watering. That’s still very tasty but still green.
2021 Brouilly La Folie
Vines that look towards the hill of the Côte de Brouilly. 50% destemmed, then foudres.
A much deeper nose – still an accent of gentian but much less – this is a very attractive nose. Some gas, and a frame of tannin – no grain (almost) here more intensity. Juicy but with a little austerity – large scale. A very long wine – One worth waiting for…
2021 Cote de Brouilly Les Brulhiés
Vines behind the house.
A hint of gentian again but perfumed, sweet and attractive. Also still some gas, faintly grained – accentuated by the gas – the finish is much larger, deeper and delicious – there’s much less austerity here – virtually none – that’s going to be a very tasty wine.
Didn’t make Corantin – will make in 22 – but Lois is back after none in 2019 and 2020:
This predominantly from 1916 vines.
A faint reduction to start – then growing more perfumed – again the accent of gentian diminishes further. The most fluid and mobile in the mouth – the grain still nice – it’s a great 21. I can’t wait, even with the faint accent of the vintage.