Tasted in Chablis with Cyril Testut, 06 January 2021.
38, rue des Moulins
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More reports for Domaine Testut
Cyril on 2020:
“We thought that we had more volume, the grapes looked lovely, but particularly on the hillsides of the right-bank we lost a lot of juice – so the volume of wine too. Lovely grapes – the cleanliness was impressive though and I think more classic than 2019, with a little more volume but still not lots – we lost about 15% from grilled grapes and almost as much again from the lack of rain.”
Cyril on 2019:
“On the right-bank, the Côte de Brechain, for instance, we saw a little frost and some small amounts of hail, but again it was principally the dryness that reduced our volumes in this vintage. I’m happy, indeed very happy with the quality – it’s more balanced and was easier to ferment than 2018 – the malos followed like they should and we’ve lovely acidity for such a warm vintage. I’m less happy with half a harvest but because of that, there will be some richness. I worried it might be a vintage that showed the sun too much – the dryness brings concentration but never sur-maturity so we have interesting acidities – aromas too. The maturity did arrive very quickly but the dryness at least slowed that a little.
“My only regret is that I couldn’t make more in 2019 – I like the wines very much.”
Cyril is considered and understated in his discussion of both his wines and terroirs – his wines are not a bit understated – here’s another very fine selection.
All DIAM today – nice long 54mm DIAM10 for the higher wines and bottled about 3 weeks ago:
2019 Chablis Vieilles-Vignes
That’s a very nice nose; considered, very faintly spiced too and if you wait a little, floral accented too. Mouth-filling, I like the energy and there’s a small tannin that augments the texture. A little richness but no lack of balance – concentrated, layered, flavour in the finish. Open and floral accented in the finish – a very lovely finish.
2019 Chablis 1er Vaillons
Some of the oldest vines, planted in the late 50s/early 60s. From Beugnons. Bottled in April – the first to be bottled.
That’s a nose that’s open and has an impressive depth that’s coupled with clarity. Wide, chiselled, mineral wine – I love the tension and the phenolic accent that texture has. Really wide and citrussy finishing – that’s a super finish.
This also bottled, 3 weeks ago
A narrow nose today but still of good depth. Driving direct and fresh – that’s so good – mineral, mouth-watering. Bravo Chablis with a lovely width and texture. A vibrant finish too.
0.20 ha of 80-year-old vines, the same age as Beugnons. Only replaced with massale selections.
The first with a fine and classic touch of aromatic salinity. The minerality of the last with much extra width – a mineral tour de force. A finish that has some citrus bitters and attendant intensity. Slowly fading flavour. That’s a very fine Forets, it could be great if you have a little patience…
0.32 hectares – the high part with the other producers – Chablisienne has all the lower part. Father planted in the 60s. 2002 was the first vintage here for Cyril and that was a bigger vintage in terms of volume than he wanted, so worked since then on the soil – and there’s not a lot up there, and in recent years he’s had it ploughed by horse. ‘Today I’m happy with the balance in the plants. But whilst there’s magic in certain parcels, you have to work to unlock that magic!’
Not a large nose, but a crystalline nose, faintly of lime citrus. Mouth-filling, powerful and mineral – the fruit, like the nose is pure citrus and shaded more to green than yellow. Holding an impressive depth of finishing flavour too. That’s another great Grenouilles – I have the impression that this cru shows its best in the warmer years.
And for the road(?)
Here is the merest touch of some aromatic development, almost a suggestion of smoke. Oily, silky texture – that’s so good – but so concentrated – yet it slides so easily across the palate. Very slowly fading – not loudly, but always present. That will be great in 4-5 more years!
2018 Chablis 1er Les Fôrets
A silky width of aroma, perhaps with a faint wood component. Supple, lovely energy, a more vibrant wine than the previous 2016, concentrated but not as much as the 16 – no surprise. And wider finishing. I’d love to make this same comparison in another 5 years.
Hmm, that’s the most open nose – complex, floral, perhaps also a faintly reductive style of minerality. Really wide, mobile almost lush, melting – surprisingly accessible – I wouldn’t shame you for drinking this tour de force today – perhaps with a grilled lobster 😉