Marronniers & Maupertuis – 2019


Laurent & Marie-Noëlle Ternynck 2021 Domaines Marronniers & MaupertuisTasted in Préhy with Laurent & Marie-Noëlle Ternynck, 13 January 2021.

Domaine de Mauperthuis
3, Grande rue de Chablis
89800 Préhy
Tel: +33 3 86 41 42 70
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Laurent and Marie-Noëlle on 2019:
2019 a vintage with similarities to 2018 but the acidities are more ‘present’ and give wines that are more classic. It was a clean vintage, no mildew, though sometimes the chance of oïdium. We had a little frost in Saint-Bris and at the bottom of some Chablis – also a little hail – pres-Courgis, mainly a little damage to the leaves though it didn’t help the flowering. It was mostly the heat that reduced the volume – every time it peaked well above 35°C we lost another 5% – with a little VCI from 2018 that’s fine! We never make more than 50 hl/ha – in 2019 we had about 35 hl/ha so a third less than a good year.

The wines…

As every year, one of the most interesting of my visits – excellent Chablis and some great Irancy (and others!) this year…

DIAM for some of the base wines, PC and Chablis, the rest are cork. Not all is bottled yet, but all is assembled:

2019 Maupertuis, Bourgogne Les Brûlis
Pinot with all tank elevage, bottled.
Tons of colour – ‘we did no pigeage but had a long cold start.’ This wine still in tank. A wine with almost a gooseberry style of acidulated fruit. Very concentrated but also with a beautiful texture – until the tannin rises and destabilises it a little. Super length – ripe and concentrated but easier than many in 2018 – very long too.

2019 Maupertuis, Bourgogne Pinot Noir Grand Reserve
12 months elevage, in barrel 15% new.
This bottled. Quite a vibrant fruit – dark, ripe and deep. This has strength – width and concentration, I also find the fruit much tastier than the last wine. That’s a really great Bourgogne – bravo!
2019 Maupertuis, Irancy
Also still tank elevage, a little less than 10% of césar in this, mainly from 3 parcels.
A faint spice above, otherwise a little tight but below there’s a width of aroma. A little more structural but not overblown the fruit’s in good shape here. Some tannin but more than an accent of florals in the finish. That’s a great Irancy.

2019 Maupertuis, Irancy Mazelots
It’s all pinot here a massale selection of about 60-year-old vines.
A deeper, more textured nose. Full of energy, mouth-filling in all directions, that’s really very great, supple, concentrated – very concenetrated – but delicious

2019 Irancy Vaupessiot
One of the warmest places, very close to the river, in fact looking down on it…
Deep aroma – almost inky. Mouthfilling but a big freshness to here. A big finish too – for keeping – in theory, but I could enjoy this now…

2019 Maupertuis, Irancy Palotte
Perhaps more than 10% césar, the average age of the vines is old – from about 1920 the planting.
Tons of colour. Almost a note of tobacco here. Fresh, nice drive – open and clean finishing. My favourite!

2019 Maupertuis, Bourgogne Pinot Noir Cuvée Amphore
Skin contact in amphora – tasted after 10 months before a vertical press. Then 6 months in old barrels
A wider, very complex nose – very attractive. Drive, concentration without fat. A certain spice to the flavour, but very attractive. A little floral and wide in the finish. More than interesting – give it on to two years to soften but that’s very tasty.

2019 Maupertuis, Bourgogne César Amphore
In an amphora done exactly as the last.
That’s actually quite a nice nose – more than an accent of spice but really showing not too much. Direct, almost silky – the tannin rising but micro-grained. Long, that’s the best césar you can buy – unless you know better.

Les blancs…

2019 Maupertuis, Bourgogne Chardonnay Les Truffièrre
Now 20-year-old vines.
A weight but also freshness of aroma. Here a large wine, with some richness but also a bright and freshness-bringing acidity. Long, a little opulent and never lacking balance – very tasty.

2019 Maupertuis, Bourgogne Chardonnay Renouel
Because Irancy blanc isn’t allowed! Above Paradis – 65-year-old vines. Only old oak elevage. A great vine for massale selection – tiny grapes, really quite different.
Extra freshness here – still plenty of fruit. Extra drive and minerality. Lovely mouth-watering finish. Long and delicious.

Now Domaine des Marronniers:

2019 Marronniers, Petit Chablis
A 5-hectare parcel called Temps Perdu in the plateau of Préhy. Youngest plantation of the domaine – about 15 years old – behind the buildings of JM Brocard. With DIAM but not yet bottled.
Starting reductive but opening its arms to embrace with air – a nice depth of minerality here. Direct, lovely tension – never sharp, plenty of concentration – subtly long. That’s an excellent PC

2019 Marronniers, Chablis
Different parcels from Préhy and Courgis – about 10 hectares worth – 11 months of all tank elevage.
That’s a great and vibrantly mineral nose – accented with a hint of reduction – but it’s additive. Wide, citrussy, growing in intensity. Concentrated but never approaching heavy or ‘rich.’ That’s a very fine Chablis. Give it some time – as a minimum it’s excellent – it could be great!

2019 Marronniers, Chablis Les Malantes Vieilles-Vignes
An old 1976 parcel near the Brocard winery. 11 months in foudres – ‘we do nothing.’
That’s got a lovely depth of mineral, citrus agrume, again suggesting a reduction. Wider, a little more in place, direct, faintly tannic. A touch of finishing sweetness but also a big wave of flavour. Super.

2019 Marronniers, Chablis 1er Montmains
2.5 ha but all in Butteaux. All tank elevage, for 15 months – not yet bottled.
Also a vibrant and exciting nose. A little bit more width – if possible. Bubbling with energy again, more tannin framing the flavour. Most driving and certainly the finest of these so far – holding a great finish. Bravo.

2019 Marronniers, Chablis 1er Côte de Jouan
Elevage and fermentation in older barrels – now bottled. They say that this needs more time to open than the Montmains.
The nose is fresh, yellow-fruited and shows no oak. Ultra-mineral, less intense but still beautifully mouth-watering. Slowly lingering – more contemplative wine but really something – excellent.

2019 Chablis 1er Vaillon
From Epinottes, with elevage in 600-litre barrels, a contract.
Riper but with a ripple, almost a fizz, of energy. Rounder, yellow fruit, a growing intensity but not too much. Nicely long, slowly fading, like the last a little contemplative but perhaps not with the same concentration in the finish.

2019 Marronniers, Chablis Valmur
Bought grapes – in the middle of Valmur on the east side toward Clos a contract since 2015. Do the harvesting here. Already bottled as was quite a small quantity – 2 barrels.
A depth of concentration, the aroma tighter above – almost a waxy aspect. Mouth-filling, framed with a little grain of tannin. Extra-long but not that extra in many other areas. It’s a great finish today though – let’s wait for the rest to catch up.

Two ‘orange wines:’

2019 Maupertuis, Chablis Amphore
Skin-contact for 11 months – but half must, half destemmed grapes – vin nature like all the amphora wines here.
Freshness and depth – the nose a bit more herbal but a long way from the concept of ‘natural.’ A little herb in the higher tones too, but here’s a width of flavour – more herbal-styled and complex. There’s a modest tannin but really of very fine grain.

2019 Maupertuis, Saint-Bris Amphore
12 months amphora maceration, 6 months in acacia barrels.
A rosé shade to this wine. The nose is very different – a suggestion of the variety but something apart. That’s a much heavier almost pungent depth of tannin-framed flavour – easy and mineral finish. Interesting and worth your time!

2019 Maupertuis, St.Bris
A classic cuvée in tank. The foudres are acacia for both the St.Bris and the Chablis
Here is a nose of volume, of depth and concentration, slightly reductive but slowly growing with more menthol notes. Wide, rather mineral, a grain of tannin again – lovely energy in the middle. Pretty finishing flavours with a little tannin intermingled – very nice!

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