Tasted in Courgis with Alice de Moor, 26 January 2021.
Alice on 2019:
“Again a warm vintage, again a dry vintage – but warmer and drier than 2018 even. We did have some frost in our aligoté but not in the chardonnay, so the reverse of 2017. Practically the whole vintage was quite dry so no maladies but we also expected much less production but in the end it wasn’t so bad – a normal vintage from volume perspective – I like the wines. They are very ripe but also rather classic – fermentations were quite rapid – we harvested from 12 September, the aligoté towards the end – more like the 25 September – but we were able to preserve the acidity – that wasn’t possible in 2018. It’s interesting that the year in 2020 more closely resembled that of 2018, but the profiles of the wines are more like 2019.”
What a great range of wines from the team here in 2019 – I hesitate to say ‘quirky’ as all are so complete and delicious. If I have the time I am known to make a second visit here to collect some (paid for!) wines – but it’s towards the end of my tasting schedule this year so not practical – that’s a shame – because these are really so good!
2019 Le Vandangeur Masqué Caravan
Assembly of different varieties – never the same: 40% riesling, 40% sauvignon from St.Bris, 10% chardonnay from St.Bris and 10% aligoté from the domaine.
A sweetness but a nice clarity of fruit too. Round, easy, lower sulfur but also mineral and interesting – here’s a fine complexity mixed with a little richness – very tasty wine. Delicious!
Lots of colour. A deep and almost oily depth of concentrated fruit – much more exciting than it sounds! Mouth-filling lots of freshness, driving gorgeous pure citrus finish – really a honey here – great aligoté
Half tank, the rest split between a new Stockinger foudre and an older one. Also bottled at the end of September.
A cleaner attack there’s more impression of clarity here. Wider, layered, lovely depth to this flavour. Intensity too – that’s a great, great Chitry – just faintly touched by barrel but intense and delicious wine – bravo!
2015 was the last vintage made – ‘it depends on the quality of the vintage’
Airy, mineral, deep – a small vibration of reduction. A small bead of gas but quickly fading. This is a little more structural and open. Vibrant in the finish – that’s a great wine– and just so persistent!
Masqué is normally for contracts, but this is actually two (newish, 2016 and 2018) domaine vines that are in conversion to bio. All tank elevage.
A freshness and width to this aroma, faintly accented by the lower sulfur elevage. Mouth-filling, great combination of clarity and minerality, accented by citrus which comes centre-stage in the long finish. That’s another great wine – so long and absorbing. Yes!
2019 Chablis l’Humeur du Temp
50% tank, 25% foudre, the rest in barrels. Multiple parcels, many very small – there are over 10.
The aroma here reflects that of the last wine but with a little extra padding. In the mouth too – there’s the same scale but with a little more depth, a cushion, to the texture, probably from the modest accent of barrel flavour.
The following were sampled from tank:
2019 Chablis Clardy et Rosette
From tank – soon to be bottled.
A nose that’s much more timid – a suggestion of citrus is all that escapes the glass. Faint gas. Wide, a wiry-muscled presence, a little depth to the texture like the last but with more discrete barrel notes. Super intensity and a showcasing very fine length.
2019 Chablis 1er Vau de Vey
The third vintage for this wine – bought at the end of 2016. Very steep here. Was in large-format barrels until end of 2020 and now in tank.
A little more open than the last – of depth and a faint cushion of barrel. Extra insistent width and great energy – there’s a modest cushion here too perhaps from the barrels. Great finishing – I like the dynamics here. That’s very long…
2019 Chablis 1er Mont de Milieu
‘A vineyard rented since the end of 2016, 90 years old vines, a vineyard that was already organic. The owner was ill and couldn’t work the vines. Soil is very different here – it could be from a garden, brown soil, marne – we have a horse that does the ploughing. Was racked in August. Third vintage for this wine still working on the length of time in barrel – ‘I’m slowly reducing that so I don’t get the sense of quicker aging.’
Still timid above but there’s more depth of aroma here – it’s quite wide at the base. A touch of gas. Then clean, wide, less obviously barrel-accented flavour, a fine grain of tannin encasing the flavours. Wide waves of finishing flavour – long too – that’s an excellent wine.
2019 Sauvignon Blanc
Fermented to ‘dry’ this vintage – it was more difficult in 2018.
Not too much colour here. Very different, not overtly menthol but with more roundness – slowly starting to add floral accents too. Fresh and direct, lots of ripe fruit but mouth-watering too. I like the texture over the palate a certain sensuous style to the wine here. Wide, clean and mouth-watering in the finish