Tasted in Chablis with Eleni Vocoret, 07 January 2021.
Eleni on 2019:
“With 2019 we’re very happy. We have less volume than 2018 – but lovely wines – and of course, 2018 was an exceptional volume. The lower volume wasn’t really because of the frost, probably the heat of the year. In the end I would say a correct volume for us – it was about the same in 2020 too. The harvest was 16-21 September – a good year for very clean grapes – we harvested to keep the acidity and freshness. But the fermentations, whilst long, were all the way through without a hitch and the wines are more typically Chablis than the 2018s. They were racked just before Christmas, probably starting to bottle in March.”
And on the market for their wines, “We had some worries about orders, but they were more delayed than cancelled, though obviously a worry after the extra volume of the 2018s that made us so happy at the harvest-time!”
A grand domaine in 2019 – on a different day I might have recommended every single wine as great.
All tasted from tank:
2019 Chablis En Boucheron
This is the parcel that, for the first few vintages, was sold at harvest time – retained now since 2017
A fine and fresh yellow citrus depth. Wide, mineral, lovely energy, a touch of perfume in the middle too. Keeping its width in the finish. Fine and beautiful – lovely wine,
A nose of more density, depth and a vibration of energy that keeps everything in line. Extra mineral, more intense yet cushioned by the texture. Ultra classic and bravo – lots of small finishing waves to the last flavours – citric acidity. A perfect villages?
Here’s some fresh citrus and with a higher level of aromatic concentration. Fuller in the mouth, a faint grain of tannin in the texture. Wide and charming in the finish – so good.
A massale selection that are 60 years old.
A deeply, freshly, vibrant nose – yes. Volume without density, mouth-watering, still somehow with a growing intensity. A small, actually not so small, explosion of finishing flavour. This is why I love Butteaux…