Tasted in Chablis with Virginie ‘Mimi’ Naudet, 07 January 2021.
4 chemin de la Vallée de Valvan
Phone: +33 3 86 42 14 83
More reports for Domaine Moreau-Naudet
Virginie on 2020 & 2019:
“20 was a bit like 19 – certainly for volume – 32 hl/ha so about 40% less than a normal vintage. In 2019 we had some frost and coulure due to the cold weather during flowering, that last part was the dryness which really burned not just the grapes but the leaves too. The acidity and pH never really changed, we didn’t lose any – and it’s similar in 2019 but 19 was much more complicated, though less dry than 2020. The 2019 grapes charged with more sugar and maturity, but no volatiles – lower acidity though. We see more alcohol in 2019 – above 13°.
“But I also had to replant 1.5 ha due to losses of old, young and middle-aged vines and for many reasons including court noué and other trunk diseases – also the odd accident with tractors!”
Each year, consistently, some great wines in the range – invariably at the cheaper-end of the wines too!
The Petit Chablis and the Chablis are sealed with DIAM.
From one parcel in Chichée – a mix of 50 and 20-year-old vines – almost 3 hectares worth, with almost 1 year of elevage. Racked together will bottle in less than a week – the first bottling of the 2019s.
That’s a lovely nose, almost a green citrus edge to this fresh fruit. A little richness of flavour but that’s more the concentration speaking – the energy is very fine. A super finish. That’s a great PC!
The largest single parcel is of 3.5 hectares – Prehy and Courgis the location of the vines.
Vibrant again – that’s a great nose with a structural style and lots of clarity of citrus. Again lots of concentration but with energy both citrus and mineral. Obviously Chablis, intense in the finish, classically saline here in the mineral finish. Another great wine.
2019 Chablis Character
The old vines bottling. 2.5 ha from Pargues; 70-year-old vines that deliver between 10-20 hl/ha. Maybe to bottle in April.
Extra width and density of aroma – still with admirable energy. Mouth-filling – a little more depth of flavour that reflects the impression of the aroma. Wide, melting, concentrated, a little zestiness to the flavour. Excellent for sure, maybe more. The finish is a great one.
2019 Chablis 1er Vaillons
Have Epinottes, Roncières and Sécher – the latter from almost 70-year-old vines.
Yellow citrus – of width and depth – citrus skins too. Fresh attack, incisive but then widening and filling the palate – a little more round than many but still with a fine leading edge of flavour. Not fully in place today – more elevage required – except in the great finish. The wine will anyway wait until June-July for bottling.
2019 Chablis 1er Montmains
From ‘real’ Montmains, Vieux Moulot and Butteaux
That’s a much more focused start, citrus skin again, I can imagine the peel here. Deep, textured with a little tannin. Growing with intensity. Really big finishing. Long too – to wait for but excellent.
Super pure and wide, less overt depth and density – very attractive yellow citrus. A touch of gas. Extra mineral, super width, bubbling with a modest but present energy, framed with a modest tannin. A long mineral line of finishing flavour. Be patient, but if you have these you are lucky. Bravo!
2019 Chablis 1er Montée de Tonnerre
A rounder and more complex nose but with no lack of fresh citrus elements. More muscle, more contemplative, lots of minerality and the base of tannin like many others. A more considered but also more concentrated wine. To be patient with, delicious without doubt, though less obvious energy than many at this stage of its elevage.
2019 Chablis Valmur
0.6 ha, worked by horse. Tasted from a stainless-steel ‘barrel.’
Deep, fresh, narrow, growing some higher tones – a vertical nose today. Extra width, grand-cru depth, a little touch, a sense, of gas. Really a depth of finishing flavour more direction today than the Tonnerre.