Tasted in Chablis with Patrick Puize, 14 January 2021.
Patrick on 2019:
“2019 could have been better – we have a smaller quantity of 1er and grand crus due to yields – but we knew that that would be the case before the harvest so we picked 24 hectares instead of 18! I’m never happy but this year yes, its good to have a nice vintage as the last year was so bad. We are often the first to pick but not in 2019 as I didn’t think the skin maturity was great. We see lots of colour from this higher skin maturity. People are usually watching me picking for a week before they start – not in 19, and I was early again in 20 – 22 August. We have strong alcohols because we were looking for skin ripeness – so 13.8° but with good acidity – we can’t really look at it like old-style Chablis, this was what the vintage delivered, but there’s a good freshness in the wine. We started Saturday the 14th. 43 hl/ha average for the 24 ha we picked so still an okay quantity. I see wines with the density of Côte d’Or whites but still with the taste of Chablis. The juice certainly had more density and because of that, we don’t really see the alcohol – wines with a capacity to be drunk young or old. Fortunately, the contract prices stayed stable in 2019, they even went down for the 2018s, but not much for the 1er and grand crus!”
Usually an early picker. Patrick went late for his 2019s. There are higher alcohols – but you won’t pick them up – an excellent range here.
“I’m still happy with cork. Deviations are more annoying than TCA as people blame the wine:
2019 Petit Chablis
Yellow fruit, modest width but attractive. Silky, layered, concentrated wine. More depth and richness than many but very tasty.
Two parcels in Chapelle la Vaupelteigne – one on the plateau, the other near the cemetery. Planted in 1974 and the 1990s but most are from 1959.
Extra freshness. Extra zesty fruit. Lots of flavour energy – thats wide, complex and great fishing – great!
2019 Chablis Terroirs de Chablis
From the north-facing slopes of Forets. The last was only on limestone, this has some clay too.
A little fresher still, with a saline element too. Chalky, layered, lovely freshness – excellent wine. Love the finish again, more direct this one.
2019 Chablis Terroirs de Chichée
Fine citrus but tighter than the others. Lovely texture and depth, a riper, more golden fruit, shimmeringly deliciously and modestly lingering…
In Chapelots, but the villages part.
Another very fine but not large-scaled nose. Textural, wide and concentrated, but like all these very delicious and no worries about balance. A burst of finishing flavour – great!
2019 Chablis 1er Forêts
Depth of aroma with a suggestion of barrel. Supple, a little oak, easier over the palate, more relaxed wine today, but super and contemplative in the finish.
2019 Chablis 1er Vaillons-Séchets
Here, vines on the vein of limestone in Vaillons, planted in 1961. The first-picked vines
A depth of citrus, fresher than Forets. More attack, still a cushion to the texture. Lots of concentration, super fresh waves of finishing flavour and completely delicious.
2019 Chablis 1er Vaillons-Roncières
From Vaillons – the third year for this wine. The valley opens a little here, planted east-west – everything else here is north-south.
Wider, plenty of fresh complexity – that’s lovely. More acidity, still a cushioned concentration. A wide, wide, wide, mouth-watering finish.
Deep, fine, slightly oaked but of presence. Big, lots of energy, that’s super, touched by the oak – but thats still a great wine, for saving, but semi-grand-cru quality here.
2019 Chablis Bougros Côte de Bouguerots
Wider, fresher, no oak showing. Vibrant, mineral, wide, concentrated finish. Great start, much more tight finishing. “It’s sich a fruit-driven wine that we only pick in the morning, when we want to accentuate the fruit we pick pm”
2019 Chablis Blanchots
A great nose, wide and complex, inviting too and no oak showing. Mouth-filling, beautifully silky, complex, young and to wait for…
2019 Chablis Les Preuses
A riper, yellow fruit nose. Direct, cool fruit, great texture and balanced concentration – That’s such an excellent grand cru.
And for the road:
2013 Chablis Les Preuses
A little development – still not hyper-complex. Drive, minerality a cool fruit, not as concentrated as the 2019 but more than in 2018. Very complex finishing. A beautiful, delicious finish.
Plenty of colour, some leafy development starting. A great line to this flavour – mineral, direct. Great wine, classic, almost ready, simply super.