Tasted in Courgis with Thomas Pico, 26 January 2021.
Because of Thomas’s much longer elevage, we taste a vintage one year older than the majority of other domaines:
Thomas on 2018:
We had a magnificent year – very good in volume – like I’ve never seen. We started our harvest the 4 September, finishing about the 25-26 September – 3 weeks of harvesting – I’ve never seen that either! Clearly very ripe grapes too – the wines partly remind me of those in 2015 – and they were not the easiest to ferment – it’s a rich vintage. We have some VCI – I’ve never had that before either. It’s a dream after the yields of 2016 and 2017. I find a lot more balance in the wines after the extra elevage – some are botted but not all yet. What are currently commercial are the following:
The only domaine of my 2021 visits with a clean-sweep of great wines!
We strat with the newly bottled wines:
The first bottling Vent d’Ange after 16-20 months
That’s a very silky nose – a depth of yellow-citrus here. Bright, wide, mineral, just a little textural padding, chamfering of the edges of this wine. That’s a lovely finish, growing, complex – really great finishing.
Less volume of aroma but more fresh width to that aroma. A touch of tannin to the texture, growing in a more structural shape. That’s another super finish – almost sparkling with complexity – the Chablis a little more impact, here with a little more complexity. Super-long again – another bravo 2018!
Not long in bottle.
Here’s more depth and energy to the aromas – darker fruited citrus. More pinpoint-accurate and precise – wide, mineral, not quite the austerity of 2017 a couple of years ago but the same complex, layered finish – so long – bravo!
And some from tank:
Not yet in bottle – two more weeks – this is the 30 month elevage cuvée – the label will have a red badge to identify the longer ageing
Aromas that are more vibrant and mineral, floral too. Very open, mouth-filling, still a modest cushion but less than the previous. The mouth-watering style is more obvious. Great wine.
1.7 hectares – ‘Sol magnifique’ – but it needs harvesting later. Bottling will be in the summer but not commercialized until 2022.
More architecture here – that’s a lovely open nose. Extra intense, layered, a vibration of reduction below but nothing overt. Great, great finishing again
A part soon to be bottled.
Starting with a little roundness and reduction – becoming more vibrant and increasing in clarity as you work the glass. Structural, mineral, complex – open and mouth-watering – great wine again. And for the moment there’s been no sulfur additions…