Tasted in Beines with Florent Dauvissat, 08 January 2021.
Domaine Agnes et Didier Dauvissat
Chemin de Beauroy
89800 Beines
Tel: + 33 3 86 42 46 40
www.domainedauvissat.fr
More reports for Domaine Agnes et Didier Dauvissat
Florent on 2019:
“2019 was a nice surprise for sure. We started with some frost in the Petit Chablis on the plateau – this was the worst of the frost – we also had some candles in our 1er cru and were at the limit – luckily the air managed to circulate – we anyway make late pruning here so probably lost no more than about 5%. Neighbours have aspersion which isn’t so good for us without as it makes everything wet. We had a summer that was very dry and warm – some heatwave times too – the vines were close to their limits again I think, and the sun grilled the grapes in some locations. Our harvest was later than in 2018 – we started 10 September versus 02 September in 2018. The grapes had maturity but lacked some juice but with better acidity than 2018. I think a combination of concentration but balance too – 13° in the Petit Chablis. We had some VCI reserve from 2018 so the actual result for us is better, but the true yield in 2019 was about 1/3rd less than the allowed levels. All wines under 13° except for the 1er cru which was exactly 13°”
The wines…
Every year a delicious range of wines, always the Petit Chablis a great wine.
Corks for the 1er crus, DIAM equivalents for PC and Chablis – non-oaked. ‘The lower price of the synthetics have allowed us to spend more on higher-quality corks for the other wines.’
An assembly of parcels, in the plateau of Beines, near Vauligneau and above the grand crus. This was bottled – with the others in July.
That’s a nicely fresh and green-citrus accented nose – often one of the best PC at this address and this is already close to sold-out. Direct, mineral, a little saline and quite juicy. The intensity slowly building over the tongue. Finishing with a broad panorama of flavour. A little young – it will benefit from 6-12 months of patience but as usual, that’s a top PC!
2019 Chablis
5.5 ha of Chablis in total – this representing 3 of those hectares in Fyé, almost a continuation of Blanchots, just below the plateau of Petit Chablis.
A little more depth and more concentration to this nose – cut from the same cloth as the PC. Direct, mineral, a little green citrus fruit. Proper Chablis. Intense, showing extra concentration – give this one year before you start your attack on the bottles. Excellent Chablis, mouth-watering and long.
2019 Chablis 1er Beauroy
2 hectares of vines in a single parcel in Côte de Savant.
A wider nose – adding a floral aspect to what went before. Only a little rounder in the mouth – the mineral intensity of the last wine evident here too, but with a few millimetres mor comfort. Love the finish, intense and showing a reprise of flavour – very long. That’s a super Beauroy – but give it time again!
2019 Chablis 1er Beauroy Eléve en Fût de Chêne
This the longer elevage cuvée with 100% barrel elevage – currently in tank, assembled, waiting for bottling – it’s now ready.
The oak is certainly visible but also a floral component which wasn’t visible on the last wine. More silky, slightly richer texture, the intensity is still there but spread over more area. The oak is present but relatively modest – in 2 years you probably may not find it. A small accent of salinity is more over here too. Super wine, but be patient.
How about a look at the 2018s?
Here the nose is a little tighter but still shows a lovely clarity of fine citrus and a little salinity. Wide, nice intensity and certainly more classic than 1 year ago. Perhaps a little less concentrated than the 19 but a beautiful and intense finish. That’s a great PC – particularly in 2018.
2018 Chablis
A little accent of florals on another nose that’s slightly more compact. Intense, super incisive, a wine that’s still in waiting, but the finish, so direct, so intense so citrus-acidity is super – I pull a face like when I suck on lemon juice – but then I want to go back for more – too young yet still moreish! Excellent potential.
2018 Chablis Les Petits Vignerons
Hand harvested, a parcel in Courgis – 0.5 ha near Chaume de Talvat – 500 l barrels for vinification and the rest in tank – usually 12 months elevage. Not made in 2019.
Easier, certainly much more open – oaked but not overtly – mainly it is the spice that’s now showing. Rounder, with a more cushioned texture. Easier wine to assimilate for sure, but the oak spice dulls the clarity a little. The oak has brought a little floral context in the middle flavours and is generally an easier wine – indeed one that you can drink already. I prefer the incisive, steel ‘naked’ version though.
2018 Chablis 1er Beauroy
Here is a width of aroma, slightly accented, and deepened, by a touch of reduction. Fresh, direct, mineral, properly classic wine. This could only be from Chablis and needs a year or two more in the cellar – at least for comfort! A super finish very long – I appreciate.
2018 Chablis 1er Beauroy Eléve en Fût de Chêne
This the cuvée with all barrel elevage – only 3 demi-muids for the whole cuvée.
Already the nose turning more floral, less obviously of oak. Round in the mouth, spiced from the oak. Very mouth-watering, salivating, almost a ‘tamed’ version of the previous cuvée – less sauvage, very good 2018.
2017 Chablis Les Petits Vignerons
That’s an open wine, faintly of spiced lemons. Nice shape in the mouth – bubbling with energy and with a saline accent. That is certainly round but full of mouth-watering citrus elements – fresher in style vs the 2018(s). A wide and delicious finish – so persistent. That’s coming good – it will soon be ready. Excellent wine!
Not so wide but that’s deep and floral almost a little buttered brioche! This is wide, intense, mineral, a suggestion of oak-related flavours in the width on offer, but also a complexity of herb, mineral and citrus. 2017, in my opinion, was always a vintage to cellar and this is getting closer to drinking, maybe still another couple of years – the oak is still showing, but very modestly and I’d say is about 90% gone now. That will be a great bottle.
