Tasted in Chablis with Laurent Vorcoret – posing next to his ‘Diamond Egg,’ 27 January 2021.
Laurent on 2019:
“In 19 I managed an average of 50 hl/ha – there was a little frost to start the year – we had the water-sprays running for 9 nights in Fourchaume. So the start of the year was less easy as the spring was very cold – the vines certainly suffered – we didn’t really have the proper nice green colour of the vines until the start of July because of that cold but thereafter life was easier. I started harvesting 16 September – a couple of times before harvest we had some millimetres of rain which ensured that we had the proper maturity. Aromatically better than 2018 I think – generally a better balance too.”
Always thoughfully made, excellent wines at this address.
Everything here was bottled in July – ‘with a correct moon.’ NDtec corks and inert atmosphere bottling:
2019 Petit Chablis
All Maligny – the domaine just has 0.3 ha in Villy. The Portlandian limestone here has much bigger fossilised mussels vs the tiny shellfish that are classic in the Kimmerigian.
A little floral – the nose compact. Round in the mouth, nicely silky, layered, concentrated flavour for a PC – that’s got nice energy, not too much. Easy to approach, delicious and long.
More depth of aroma here – textural and attractive. More drive and direction – more intensity too – that’s a step up in Chablis character and structure. A proper Chablis finish – slightly of the seashore. That’s an excellent wine.
2019 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Citrus fruit – golden and wide – a fresh invitation. Direct, fine shape, I find a lovely structure here – another step forward in complexity, with minerality and some salinity – excellent. The finish is long but more discreet after the last two – more here and I would say bravo – still, the finish remains for quite some time later…
‘Always ready before the Fourchaume – it has a different finesse’
The nose golden-fruited again but of more width and some energy – tighter above than the Fourchaume but plenty of aromatic width as you go deeper. Framed with a little tannin – here is a super combination of not too overt energy and waves of flavour – mineral and saline again – the finish more present and intense than the Fourchaume – a little floral here too – that’s a great 2019.
Three old parcels, all vinified in barrel – from 1928 vines.
A wine clearly of the barrel – there’s a lot of oak spice here. Super shape and freshness, beautifully mouth-watering and long. This has the form of a great wine but it’s far too oaky today for this palate – I would return at first in three more years to see how it’s going. But the shape and texture here is simply gorgeous.