Tasted in Lignorelles with David and Arnaud Lavantureux, 29 January 2021.
David & Arnaud on 2019:
“In 2019 we suffered a lot from the dryness, but we managed to keep the tension better than in 2018 – we have less volume that’s for sure but after a vintage with plenty of volume and some vci that came from that – so no problem. In fact, we are still selling some 2018s – the 2019 volumes were average but much more than in 2017 – we had more in 2020 than in 2019 too. We managed 46-47 hl/ha – but with a big difference between the yields of Petit Chablis which suffered a lot from the dryness – it’s clay here – the Chablis was better and easier.”
Always the slightly caramel-creamy-oaked style of the domaine, but move past that and you have some great wines. Look out for their new Bourgogne Epineuil too – what a fabulous thing!
Natural cork is used here, nothing peroxide treated. Wax topped from the Vauprin onwards:
2019 Petite Chablis
Here is the only wine that with 100% stainless-steel for all vinification and elevage. All from Lignorelles
A modest volume of aroma but some nicely pure freshness. A fine first impression – wide but mineral – not hyper-energetic, but so mouth-watering. A faint grain of tannin at the base and a good depth to the flavour too. A super finish – excellent wine but with a great finish.
All the domaine’s wines are vinified parcel by parcel – this comes from a single parcel in Lignorelles but a big parcel of 5ha and it’s the biggest cuvée of the domaine. 25% barrel elevage
A nicely vibrant nose – quite mineral. A touch of barrel in this mouth-watering flavour layered, great textured, – delicious finishing – complex and attractive – hold to reduce the impact of the wood – there’s not a lot, but that’s a great Chablis.
The previous wines were bottled in July, the rest done around November:
2019 Chablis Vieilles-Vignes
3 parcels in Lignorelles – vines planted by grandfather – 50-60-year-old vines. Here with 40% barrel elevage, all the higher crus with 50%
A more concentrated width of aroma – here with a more overt nod to the barrel elevage. That’s beautifully vibrant and deeply flavoured – plenty of barrel, plenty of concentration. Wait 2-3 years for this great finishing wine – unless you are a fan of creamy-oak in your wine.
2019 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Here is a lovely width of riper citrus, the barrel aspect is much more discrete here. Silky, supple, texture backing a layered style to the flavour – delicious richness but never ‘heavy’. A finish that holds really, really well – a contemplative but completely delicious wine.
No, not my bad spelling, this is a villages climat – a high parcel in Lignorelles, south, south-east facing, but 300m high so cool and exposed.
A beautiful, almost silky nose of higher and lower tones – a suggestion of barrel caramel but more it’s the energy of agrumes. Vibrant, mouth-watering with absolutely great flavour. Super finishing too – the barrel is mild here – but clearly, we have great wine – bravo!
2018 Chablis 1er Vau de Vey
Too steep for animals here and slippy too – so everything is done by hand. Similar exposure to Vauprins, but at a lower altitude, virtually no soil here vs plenty in Beauroy, and what there is here is much whiter. Half with barrel elevage.
Hmm, that’s another very attractive nose – different, vibrant and wide. That’s a super, vibrant wine – faintly soft at the edges but so good – the finish comes faster than the previous but lasting long on a more discrete level. Excellent wine.
2019 Chablis Vaudesir
A large and vibrant nose touched by barrel in the slightly caramel style of the domaine. Wide, concentrated but a vibrancy of flavour at the same time, vibrant finishing too. I find that a really excellent Vaudésir – like all, for my palate, to hold in the cellar a while, but the oak will have faded to nothing in another 2 or-so years…
A depth of pure, darker-red fruit, faintly with fine herb and some barrel – the last drops in the glass are ultra-pure and fabulous. Mouth-filling, beautifully textured, great fruit, slightly saline and with a super finishing flavour, slightly spiced and long. A seriously great Epineuil – try including this as a ‘ringer’ in a Côte de Nuits tasting!