Tasted in Chablis with Marine Race, 15 January 2021.
Denis has retired – just a couple of weeks before my visit. The domaine now has new labels and, since last year, the new labels also carry the HVE 3 logo for the now certified domaine.
Marine on 2020:
“Wow – a super vintage. We tasted them for the first time last week. The fermentations were fast and the wines are aromatic. My father, who is 66, has never seen such an early to harvest – in August!”
Marine on 2019:
“The quality is great but it’s such a low quantity, less than either 2016 or 2017 for us. There was some frost and clearly the damage was more than we initially thought. Then came a summer with not a drop of rain – so volume-wise we are about one-third down – roughly 40 hl/ha – fortunately we were back to normal in 2020. Also surprising, it was hot like 2018 so we expected something much more generous in that style – but in the end, the wines are much nicer, with more freshness.”
A fine range of 2019s…
Bottled end July as usual after 9 months:
2019 Petit Chablis
Next to Montmains a bit more than a hectare close to Butteaux.
That’s a very forward and impressively deep nose – plenty of citrus-skin freshness. The Width is direct and fresh – classic without austerity. Lovely drive and freshness – a fine and approachable PC
A rounder nose, more instantly inviting with an almost green-citrus note. Wide, lovely intensity – citrus intensity – cool, mineral too. Deliciously intense as you head into the finish – that’s really super!
2019 Chablis 1er Vaillons
Fuller, riper but still a greener citrus aroma. Excellent – this is wide, intense and fresh – a beautiful middle and finish – the combination of cool citrus minerality and lovely easy texture. Small finishing waves of flavour – that’s really excellent wine.
2019 Chablis 1er Montmains
A little higher toned. Cooler, more direct, more direction of a modest austerity – real Chablis here. Melting, long-finishing – a great finish. To wait for but here’s a super wine.
2019 Chablis 1er Côte de Cuissey
Sold for a long time in bulk as wasn’t the favourite of Denis, but this year they’ve decided to keep it.
Fuller more floral than the Montmains. Cool, beautifully pure, saline – a modest note that resembles caramel – ‘completely typical for this cru’ says Clair. Easy over the palate. Very tasty – and perhaps spicy finishing – my first wine with this label and it’s a lovely wine
2019 Chablis 1er Mont de Milieu
A wider panorama – good freshness and a certain elegance to this citrus aroma. More direct but also with plenty of width. Energy, but not too much, again an elegant finish that is very persistent. That’s a lovely wine of super clarity.
2019 Chablis 1er Montmains Vieilles-Vignes
From 58 year-old vines, in Butteaux.
Cool and wide – a little lime again. Mouth-filling, cut from the same cloth as the Montmains but with just a little more comfort or padding – or better said a little less austerity. The finish actually grows after you swallow – and it’s really, really long – that’s a super wine. Excellent!