Tasted with Jean-François Bordet in Maligny, 27 January 2021.
Jean-François on 2019:
“2019 was a little complicated because we had some frost at the start of April which returned at the end of April and then again in May – each time ten days in-between without frost – that’s hard for the vigneron – then minus again mid-May – but no damage – which is just as well we’d already removed all the candles from the vines! There was some frost damage but not excessive. With aspersion, candles and some electric heating, I’m protecting 10 hectares now. Afterwards, a year that was relatively easy – it was very hot at times, very dry too but that means less work in the vines – compared to 2020 that was just very hot for a week in August. We started harvesting about 16 September.”
I’m a big fan of the clarity of style that Jean-François produces – and he is rather consistent in 2019 – there are few astoundingly great wines at this stage but all were excellent.
All 19s are in bottle, the last were done in December:
2019 Petit Chablis
Plateau in Maligny is all clay, almost no stones – this brings a floral, just some large stones – indistinguishable from the grand cru rock. This with screw-cap – also plenty screwcaps for villages Chablis. There’s also a cork-sealed bottle (Trescasses cork-agglomerate) that is more ready – I tasted it.
A wide nose, growing in energy. Mouth-filling, rather mineral, super finishing – lime-style citrus here. Starts good, finishes really great. Excellent wine.
Here from Maligny, there are some parts with clay but mainly it is more stony ground. ‘Maligny does have a certain roundness though.’ Tasted from screw-cap and cork
Screwcap: A good vibration of energy here. In the mouth – starting structural and intense – very mineral, slowly relaxing over the palate. Widening, widening, layered in the finish.
Cork: Energetic, bubbling with energy, salinity too. Long in the finish
2019 Chablis Vieilles Vignes
Three parcels with vine ages of 112, 84, and 55-60, all worked by horse for 3 years now. Just under 10% 500-barrel elevage – bottled in July
A depth of aroma – good width here. More volume in the mouth – plenty of concentration but fuller in the first phase, comfort in the middle finely intense and mineral towards the finish. Slowly citrus fading. That’s very good – the finish is excellent!
2019 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Today this is 100% from Homme Mort, 55-year-old vines.
That’s a fine citrus – yellow–golden fruit but fresh. Mineral, great mouth-watering energy – a little extra sparkle to this wine – it’s really excellent – and fading only very slowly in the finish.
2019 Chablis 1er Vaillons
From bought grapes – labelled Jean-Francois Bordet.
A slightly more vibrant width of ripe fruit – again a golden-style to the fruit. Fuller in the mouth but not with any loss of freshness or energy. This finish is equally long but more subtle in style. I like the shape of this but prefer the finish of the Fourchaume today. This is a lovely wine all the same.
2019 Chablis Les Preuses
All elevage in a wooden tank – but a 12-years-old tank.
Clarity and depth to this super nose – though more limited in width. Extra-wide and mineral – not a wine of comfort, yet, despite the extra concentration. Proper growth of grand cru finishing weight and complexity – a wine to wait for but all is in place – that’s an excellent GC.
Large- format barrels with a mix of ages – none were new.
Also some depth of aroma here with a faint spice, probably from wood, the nose started tighter above but is slowly beginning to show some more floral aspects. More muscular, more texturally interesting today, wider finishing – a panorama of flavour in the finish – I don’t often prefer Vaudésir to Preuses but here, today, bravo…