Tasted in Fleys with Jean-Pierre Grossot, 15 January 2021.
Jean-Pierre on 2019:
“2019 delivered only 37 hl/ha, it was 32 in 2017 too – and we can compare the freshness of those two vintages. The maturity is certainly there but not too much. It’s really the dryness that was principally to blame, and of course we have a large proportion of old vines – we had roughly 46 hl/ha in 2020.for 2020. We certainly had some cold and not a great flowering, but I still think it was the dryness that was the main reason. I still find a vintage that needs to take it’s time to find its place in terms of how its tasting but we have a lovely tension which was a nice surprise.”
From 2019 the domaine was recertified organic, having dropped out in 2016.
Simply stated – a range that is excellent.
Usually from 13 hectares of vines. Bottled end of last year.
This nose opens very slowly; faintly saline – growing in interest. Here’s nice energy and plenty of citrus accents to the flavour – a little touch of phenolics and a faint grain too. Lovely finishing…
2019 Chablis 1er Troëmes
Not many who bottle with this label. Mainly sold in France. Bottled November
Here the nose is deeper, faintly reductive too. That’s really very attractive over the palate. A burst of extra finishing intensity here – that’s a great finish – I like that very much!
2019 Chablis ‘Part des Anges’
Wasn’t enough volume to make this in 2016. A parcel selection – always the same when made – opposite the domaine right next to the 1er cru. Sampled from tank.
Very forward, a bubbling citrus impression. Rounder, layered, lovely mouth-watering flavour – clearly not yet ready but that’s a great shape and it’s also beautifully mouth-watering and long. That will be super.
2019 Chablis 1er Vaucoupins
‘For us, we find that this place always puts the terroir before the vintage.’
More ready, more lime in this citrus – lovely aromatic clarity. Fuller but also with more energy and a littleless richness. That’s a lovely line of flavour, melting, mouth-watering. Really delicious finish – Excellent wine.
2019 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Another level of purity and clarity – here yellow citrus. Extra mineral and wider. Growing a good intensity. This has everything – except on a slightly modest level today – but there’s clarity energy, shape and tasty flavour – excellent wine again, perhaps more.
2019 Chablis 1er Les Fourneaux
Some oak elevage partly in demi-muids, all old.
There’s some part of barrel elevage here – you will note that in the roundness of the aroma. Round on the palate too but still crystalline with a roundess of riper citrus fruit. Larger shape in the finish.
2019 Chablis 1er Mont de Milieu
Almost all with some barrel elevage.
Here a little less round but still a width with some complexity. The flavour of the barrel is modestly present but here is a width that is clean, pure and mineral, faintly edged with a comforting mm or so to the texture. Contemplative but completely delicious – so tasty – excellent wine. Very long.