Tasted with Damien & Philippe Bardet in Noyers, 05 January 2021.
Domaine Bardet et Fils
3 Route d’Avallon
89310 Noyers
Tel: +33 6 07 08 72 01
vins.bardet.free.fr
Actually based in a large farming complex out from the centre of Noyers, Domaine Bardet was the creation of brothers Philippe and Michel Bardet. Long-time cereal farmers, they also owned land which was classified as ‘Chablis’ under the AOC maps – towards the end of the 1980s they decided it would be good to plant vines.
Planting actually began in 1991 and continued to 2014. Today, with a few small purchases – post-2014 – they are now working a domain viticole of about 9 hectares; 5.5 hectares of Petit Chablis, almost 2.2 hectares of Chablis and the newest is a plantation of 1 hectare in Irancy – the first vintage for the Irancy was 2018.
From start, they wanted to make their own wine, not sell grapes – their first vintage was in 1994. A little wine is still sold in bulk, but wine, not grapes. Philippes’s son, Damien joined in 2010, while Michel’s son, Damien’s cousin looks after the, still important, cereal exploitation.
The domaine has three principal locations; the farm out of Noyers where the cuverie is housed – Philippe explains “This cuverie is an old bergerie – kept sheep in here when I was young” – the second locale is their caveau on the route d’Avallon in Noyers, and the third is a locale in Prehy where they have machinery and presses – the grapes pressed there and then transferred in must to the farm for fermentations and elevate.
Production is a little over 50,000 bottles per year which is principally sold from their caveau in Noyers “And from the shape we’ve a good European-wide clientele. We do sell a little in the US and Belgium, but essentially it’s from here. – Noyers is very popular with the tourists so we are well-placed.”
2019:
“All the bottling has been done – this vintage bringing about 1/3rd lower volume. We had a little frost, a little hail, cold weather in flowering then hot in the summer – lots of small things but to a considerable cumulative effect.”
The wines…
A very classic range of Chablis – showing the vintage very well. Structured but not too much and properly mineral. Give them a little time, even the Petit Chablis, but I think that you’ll be very happy with them.
2019 Irancy
Only the second harvest from these young vines.
A nice depth of fresh dark fruit – that’s very attractive – faintly floral/pyrazine. Mouth-filling with a small grain of tannin. Lively and juicy – faintly drier in the finish but with a long and tasty finish – give this 2 years. I’d say quite impressive for the age of the vines.
2019 Petit Chablis
A little extra colour. The nose is forward and slightly musky – attractive. Direct, saline, very mineral, avoiding harsh but still will be better in 6 months. Wide and mouth-watering in the finish. Very good.
2019 Chablis
Vines on the route between Chablis and Prehy the old vines looking towards Courgis plus another small parcel also in Courgis.
Here’s a little more fruit ripeness. Silky texture and a little more concentration. Drive and minerality – properly Chablis. In a vintage like 19 give it 12+ months in the cellar but this is very proper for the label – it will be very tasty.
2019 Chablis Vieilles-Vignes
West-facing, looking towards Courgis. A small parcel that was purchased – vines from the 1950s.
A fuller nose, deeper too, faintly spiced. Wider, nicer depth of texture – I love the intensity here, and with a small accent of salinity too – richer but it lacks nothing in balance. This is excellent villages Chablis with a super finish that has a little included florals.