Tasted in Chablis with Guillaume Michel, 11 January 2021.
Guillaume on 2019:
“Good – not a lot of wine, we easily lost 30% – the volume with the VCI from 2018 is acceptable though – so a smaller vintage compared to 2018, that’s for sure but not when we think back to 2016! We had to light candles but I don’t think we lost so much, I think the smaller volume has much to do with following a large volume vintage – also the flowering was very long due to poor weather. We had a hot and dry summer and that certainly had an influence too – the south-facing crus were low due to some grilled fruit. 2018 was more difficult with fermentations, 19 was really quite easy – 20 has been even faster. I see the terroirs very easily in 2019 it was and still is harder for the 2018s but I’ve some faith in them. 14 September our harvest started but we were done by the 21st.”
In 2018 Guillaume made some good wines and a few great wines – in 2019 he made many more great wines!
4 wines bottled. The Petit Chablis and Chablis, plus some 1ers for certain clients are sealed with DIAM, the rest are all cork:
From above and behind Valmur from 2 ha of vines
That’s nice, pretty citrus and a saline accent. Supple, nice clarity – a great complexity in the middle – open and completely delicious simply excellent, I think bravo! Lovely finishing.
Fresh and vibrant again – clarity, accessible minerality. Stricter in the mouth – I like that – give this a little time, there’s nothing strict about the delicious finishing flavours. That will be a great villages – give it a year or more and be happy!
2019 Chablis 1er Montmains
A vibrancy of aroma – not very forward but it’s there. Extra width, growing in intensity easing in the finish – like the Chablis – a chiselled start and easier finish. Very tasty and proper Chablis
2019 Chablis 1er Vaulorent
More saline, a little less floral – but still some. Hmm, that’s a bit more mouth-filling, complex and contemplative – still fine energy though. Stays in great shape, not softening at the end. I like that a lot!
Now all are samples from tank:
2019 Chablis 1er Les Forêts
Very fine citrus and mineral – I love the purity. Again faintly saline – not showing much depth today but that’s a super width. More weight in the middle and finish, not more intensity. Vibrant finishing though – a little compact, like the nose – but all the flavour is completely delicious. Excellent even when so ‘timid!’
2019 Chablis 1er Butteaux
All these parcels (except Butteaux VV) are of similar age of vines. This has similar soil to Montmains, but Montmains is cooler, Forêt with more stones
Deeper, rounder, but again with a nice floral. Incisive, wide, nicely structured wine. The finish long but could still be more distinguished – it’s pretty and mouth-watering though. Very tasty wine all the same
2019 Chablis 1er Butteaux Vieilles Vignes
Not a big nose but one of more mineral freshness. Extra sweetness but also more architectural in shape. Much more scale here. I find more to like in this finish – a mix of agrume freshness – lovely wine.
There’s a deeper, more concentrated, almost zesty citrus skin on this nose, probably a faint reduction too. Modest gas – wow width – that’s just so mineral and mouth-filling. Fresh, with clarity and a certain mineral austerity – keep this in the cellar a while – great Chablis awaits!
We always start harvesting in this Vaillons valley – it gains it’s ripeness earlier here.
Lots of energy, fresher and higher-tones of citrus fruit. More gas. Really a mouth-filling wine, of energy and complexity – more accessible than the Vaillons as the complexity and energy are not a large slab of minerality. Love that finish. Bravo – you should keep it, but I won’t blame you if you don’t!
Almost a blend of the last two – less forward, mineral bt with a little citrus vivacity and energy. Gas again. Mouth-filling once more. Fuller a little more overt minerality than the Sechets but hardly with austerity. Super finishing – love that. Great MdT “Yep, it’s the eighth grand Cru,” says Guillaume!
2019 Chablis Vaudesir
From the north-facing hillside which helps conserve the freshness in warm vintages, but needs later harvesting…
Here the nose has a reductive depth – not stark but present. That has a lot of minerality and energy – very open, still a bit reductive. The intensity is a little higher than for the MdT. The finishing width of flavour is really something. Excellent wine – be patient with it!
That’s very wide, very mineral but with accents of citrus that ease accessibility. Big, energetic, a little saline too. That’s a great mouthful of wine. Very classic, some finesse and more saline than most. Highly recommended
Deeply aromatic – very mineral at the base but with such energy! Fresh, mouth-filling – a great start – equally great in the middle, then a finish that’s great. In this line-up the most complete wine – power but delivered with ease.