Tasted in Chénas with Paul-Henri Thillardon, 21 February 2024.
Domaine Thillardon, Paul-Henri & Charles
Les Brureaux
69840 Chénas
+33 6 07 76 00 91
Domaine Instagram
www.domainethillardon.com
More reports with Domaine Thillardon
Paul-Henri on 2022:
“We had a lovely harvest in 2023 – I was very pleased. Also in 2022 we made 35 hl/ha – vs 43 in 2023. And that was despite 2022 being hot and dry – two vintages with an acceptable volume has helped us to stabilise our prices. We started harvesting 18th August – will it rain or won’t it rain? – that was always our question. Today when harvesting, the first vines can be a bit too early and the last can be a bit too late – and I don’t like either – so we have to work fast.”
The wines…
You just cannot underestimate how drinkable the wines from this domaine are – if that was your only yardstick you would be buying everything – bravo!
All bottled:
2022 VdF Raisin Libre
Just a small dose of sulfur before bottling
A pretty, airy, red nose – it’s a fine invitation. Hmm – but that’s delicious – the flavour washing over the palate. Intense, a little saline – just a completely delicious thing.
The first vines from 2008. From the sedimentary section towards La Chapelle de Guinchay, on silex here – 3 small parcels. 50% elevage in old wood. Some years there’s a little sulfur.
A wider nose, still airy. Oh yes! Deeper, more incisive, juicy flavour – I love it. Bravo – it’s sneakily long too!
Three vines assembled – the only cuvée of assemblage.
There’s a bit more colour here. Tighter top notes but more breadth of aroma in support. A little gas but more intensity and generosity too – no less ‘deliciousness’ – longer finishing too. Another ultra-drinkable great Beaujolais.
2022 Chénas Chassignol
Old vines of 95 years behind the domaine – a 3-hectare plot in organic for a number of years – the young vines not yet ready to be included, they go into the ‘vibrations’. 50% elevage in wood. 25 days of maceration – there’s more colour here too.
Direct, more obvious concentration of aroma. Panoramic width, framed with juiciness. But also a calmer style despite this energy. Open and faintly structural in the finish – drink the previous wines in preference today but this is worth waiting some time for but clearly another fabulous wine.
The return – all was lost to the frost in 21…
More open in the higher tones here – a small cushion to these aromas. A little extra gas is visible but here is a more incisive wine – direct, chiselled, tannic with grain. A great one – bravo – a burst of finishing flavour here – oh and completely delicious too!
2022 Moulin à Vent Sous la Roche
400m altitude – the other side of the Chassignol hill.
An almost peppery style to this nose. Softer, supple, well-concentrated wine – but with super intensity – there’s a modest salinity to the finishing tannins here. Holding a width of finishing flavour.
2022 Moulin à Vent Alizes
Old vines from two parcels – different lieu-dits – more granite.
A deep nose, very faintly reductive – becoming redder with air. Large scale in the mouth, framed by a small tannin – not drying – juicy but concentrated too – it’s a nice balance. This is a wine to wait 2-3 years for, but the finish is another completely delicious one.
Le blanc:
2022 VdF Métis
Chardonnay rose and gamay together
A fine width of airy invitation. Wide, red, delicious, ready, vin dangereux!
2021(!) VdF Cuvée Georges
Second vintage from a small parcel of family vines in the south of Beaujolais – 0.77 ha – a very small cuvée of 300 bottles. Aligoté, chardonnay rose and chardonnay – north-facing – like the reds, no added sulfur with a little wood elevage
A deep nose, faintly creamy. Ooh – that’s vibrant and intense – acidulated flavour but you just have to keep going back to take another sip – that’s quite a dangerous wine too!
2021(!) VdF Métis
Hmm – That’s got a nice agrume nose – like a blood orange. In the mouth too – citrus bitters and even a hint of mint leaf. Oof – so good!