Tasted in Jullié with Jérôme Corsin, 22 February 2023.
Domaine de la Milleranche
283 rue de l’Eglise,
69840 Jullié
Tel: +33 4 74 04 40 64
www.milleranche.fr
Here is a family domaine, Jérôme working with his brother-in-law, Sylvain. There have been vignerons on both sides of the family though a family tree from the father’s side shows the family back to 1700 in Jullié – though their 13 hectares of vines are principally in Juliénas. “It was polyculture for a while, with much of the production sold in bulk – though there are less bulk sales today. We have some export but also sales into supermarkets. Since 1999 we have been a part of Terravitis – which has itself only been running since 1998. I try to take the best from organics and from biodynamics but we have always stayed with Terravitis.”
“I always wanted to be a vigneron when I was little so I guess, looking at our family tree, it must have been genetic. After the heavy hails in 2008 and again in 2009, that was the only time I doubted my metier!”
Jérôme on 2021:
“I’m happy with the quality – I have a lot of vines pruned cordon royat so can do plenty of harvesting with a machine. I waited in 21 of course, a vintage with less sun than those around it but with a gentian style to the aromas. Of course, it was a difficult growing season with all that rain – but 2/3rds of my clients seem to prefer the freshness of the 2021s vs the warmth of 2020s…”
The wines…
A first visit here and I found some lovely wines – I look forward to following up again next year.
2021 Beaujolais Villages Jullié
Some depth to this nose, starting slightly savoury – a reduction – then suggesting more. In the mouth that’s beautifully juicy – fine red fruit and delicious length.
2021 Juliénas
Here there’s the nose of gentian – of low-level pyrazine. Broad and energetic – there’s complexity and lots of delicious parts to this but for me, it’s a little too far towards the green side…
2021 Juliénas Cuvée Origine
A parcel selection – from Bois de Chat – old vines. The first cuvée with no added yeast but fully destemmed. This not yet commercialised.
A more concentrated core of aroma – growing in freshness, some floral – not overtly green. Open, with a hint of herb, supple, nicely textured. Rounder, fine fruit – a delicious thing.
2021 Juliénas Elevé en fût de chêne
‘It’s the label of my grandmother!’ 12 months elevage – barrel. Started with 228-litres now have a couple of 300-litres and is thinking of going bigger. Normally commercialise after about 2 years – so still on the 2020 here.
Some width of aroma – the oak present, spicy and a little creamy – but not too stark. Fine shape and clarity of flavour – a strong creamy accent from the barrel – not my style of wine but this is still delicious…
2019(!) Juliénas Corpore Sano
Since 2005 one barrel was more structured so they waited an extra year in barrel – they liked – so continued. This is the currently commercial vintage.
More spiced, less obviously oaked – some modest development – this smells attractive! Soft, supple and saline, the barrel is much more obvious on the palate than the nose. A cloying sweetness in the middle and finishing flavours. You would never guess Juliénas.
2021 Beaujolais Villages Rosé
Making this here since 1996. Direct pressed grapes. Low temp (15°C max) fermentation and no malo.
Some freshness, modest salinity – the nose a little tight. In the mouth this is very silky, and finely constructed – it’s delicious – a shame that the nose is so tight today.
2021 Beaujolais Villages Blanc
Almost black stone in this area. Like the rosé with a long cool fermentation.
A faintly savoury reduction but growing with interest. Direct, mineral, silky texture – finishing well. There’s a little rigour here but it’s very drinkable.
2021 St.Véran
Had these vines since 2017 – 2 ha – no barrel elevage.
The nose is a little tight. Hmm – fuller, fine architecture – almost juicy – with a lovely finishing line of flavour. That’s a lovely wine.