Tasted in Chambolle-Musigny with Frédéric Mugnier, 28 November 2023.
Domaine Jacques Frederic Mugnier
Rue de Vergy
21220 Chambolle-Musigny
Tel: +33 3 80 62 85 39
www.mugnier.fr
More reports for Domaine Mugnier.
Frédéric on 2023:
“With 2023 we can breath – I wasn’t so happy at the time of the harvest – there was such heat for 10 days before the harvest that most of the grapes exposed to the sun were a little burnt. There were a few grapes with some acetic rot too – so triage was really important – we do it every year of course! But some were a little overwhelmed with the volume of grapes on the vine after the grapes drank the August rains. But we brought in only the best grapes and I think some of the wines are going to be very nice and show tension too.”
Frédéric on 2022:
“2022 was the first time for a long time that we had a good volume – 2009 was the last time here. The volume was just a little less than in 2023. I think the higher volume played well with the warmth of the vintage – they could have been too dry dry and heavy wines without that extra volume. Again, I wasn’t very happy when we got to harvesting the 22s they had really suffered in the heat and dry but a little rain the week before we harvested really changed that aspect and we had nice grapes – I like the progression of these wines. ”
The wines…
Always very classy – the man! The wines are good too 😉
2022 Chambolle-Musigny
From 2 parcels – Combe d’Orveaux and Plantes…
Pretty notes of fine red fruit – there’s good width too – it’s an invitation. Airy in the mouth – slowly sliding into a more juicy style with impressive depth to the flavour – almost a little iron in here and then spreading over the palate with ease and some flowers. Delicious!
2022 Nuits St.Georges 1er Clos de la Marechale
More direct, fine high tones – a wine in a hurry to go somewhere – there’s energy here. Broad, a little more muscle but also fine energy and delicate, pure notes of complexity too – I like this blend. The finish, framed with a modest, grainless tannin is completely delicious – I love it.
2022 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Fuées
Much extra depth, perhaps aided with a faint reduction – broadening, really becoming a great invitation. Supple, the most silky wine with a tiny cushion to these very elegant flavours – there’s power – but from this wine you wouldn’t guess the proximity to Bonnes-Mares – such elegance – yes!
2022 Bonnes-Mares
A very different shape and energy – but a width of super-inviting top notes – yes! Extra depth to this flavour, a less overt cushion vs the Fuées, but there’s also breadth and depth to this flavour. What density of finishing flavour – now that’s very impressive. I find the Fuées more ‘in place’ today, but this will be a beauty!
Now that’s a very different perfume again – more of the rose. Such silky texture to this flavour – eventually of velour. Flavour that keeps growing – larger and larger – into the finish and holding with calm persistence – yes!
Less width of aroma but here’s an extra vibration to these, still, wonderful aromas. Wow in the mouth – crystalline complexity, luxurious over the palate, generous but never rich. Then panoramic in the finish with very faint bitters and finally a faint dryness but with no tannic grain. Grand Vin
2022 Nuits St.Georges 1er Clos de la Marechale Blanc
0.6 ha now in white in the Clos. The roots are 40-years-old, grafted to chardonnay in 2004-2007. Normally 12-14 barrels.
Oh, that’s direct, some impression of CO2 perhaps. A width – and an energetic width too – some rigour, perhaps a faint reduction here – but far from ready today I think. The finish is broad and delicious – probably for bottling in January.
Just a couple for the road – 2021s anyone?
2021 Chambolle-Musigny
An airy, pretty nose – smaller in size versus the 22s. Incisive, fluid, very red fruited – with wonderful energy
2021 Nuits St.Georges 1er Clos de la Marechale
A darker more powerful fruit aroma. Here the shape of the wine is different – the architecture – framed with grainless tannin – also there’s a hint of dryness – but depth to the fruit flavour too. Its delicious fruit but it suggests a need to open out more. Delicious energy in the finish that overcomes the middle tannin with ease – so delicious – yes!