Tasted in Morey St.Denis with Alessandro Noli, 29 November 2023.
Clos de Tart
7 Route des Grands Crus
21220 Morey St.Denis
Tel: +33 3 80 34 30 91
www.clos-de-tart.com
Domaine Instagram
More reports with Domaine Clos de Tart
Alessandro on 2023:
“Very happy – the grapes were nice, and so was the volume. 34 hl/ha – the most I ever made. 35 hl/ha is the limit, the same as for Romanée-Conti and La Tâche – the 3 lowest maximums in the Côte d’Or.”
Alessandro on 2022:
“We produced 28 hl/ha – we aim for 32-33 – but had some dryness in the vintage. We harvested relatively early to preserve the freshness in the wine.”
The wines…
It was a bizarre tasting as I noted some gentian-style florals in most of the wines – to start – but each glass was saved and there was no gentian with aeration. It was this this note that persuaded my not to write ‘great wine’ for all that I tasted – but on another day, maybe I could have – there is such sophistication in all these glasses! A dozen years ago, that’s not a word I would have used in conjunction with this domaine!
Bottled in July
A breadth of smoky invitation. Mouth-filling, faintly grained with tannin – here is a wine of impossible scale for a 21 – bravo – but it’s also a wine to wait for – be patient – and I don’t say that about too many from 2021. Then in the finish, slowly opening and holding, holding. That’s very impressive.
2021 Clos de Tart
20 months of elevage for this one.
More direct aromas, almost some gentian aroma. More supple, more beautifully textured – layered and direct in the flavour too – less large but more direct, slowly fading, a faint gentian in the finish too(?) But holding longer and in more sophisticated style. You have to wait for the previous this you should wait for. As elegant a CdT as I can recall.
And for the 2022s:
2022 Morey St.Denis
The young vines of all the Clos and all of Cabotte which was planted in 2018 – no whole clusters and older barrels were used for elevage
Lots of colour. I have the impression of some higher-toned florals? Wow, that’s good in the mouth – so beautifully textured and sweeping broad, mobile, accessible – slowly fading. That’s a beautiful wine that will only get better for years to come – but I could drink a glass of this, with pleasure, today.
2022 Morey St.Denis 1er Les Forges de Tart
As deeply coloured as the last was, here is more depth of colour. Airy perfume with more breadth to this aroma. More direct and cool grainless though a small dryness frames the flavour. There’s a little more perfume in this flavour too – breadth of flavour to match the breadth of aroma. Clean and wide in the finish – that’s a superb wine – but also for keeping – wait at least 5 years!
A little high-toned herb and florals again but more perfumed in this case – the only wine of the tasting where the whole-cluster aromatics were evident. Here there is a little more strictness to the structure – properly architectural wines this year – but open wine with wonderful clarity of flavour. Impressing in all directions – then finishing with a large and quite juicy wave of expressive flavour. Always framed with a small tannin that scolds those with thoughts of drinking today – but I can’t help myself 😉 That has such great potential!