Tasted with Pascal Mugneret in Vosne-Romanée, 13 November 2023.
Domaine Gérard Mugneret
7 rue de la Grand Velle
21700 Vosne-Romanée
Tel: +33 03 80 61 09 95
www.gerard-mugneret.fr
More reports with Domaine Gérard Mugneret
Pascal on 2023:
“With 2023 we can very happy. Lots of triage helped in this vintage.”
Pascal on 2022:
“I think it’s a good vintage. Our Pourpre and the Bourgogne are the only wines that have been bottled at this stage. I think that after 10 years it’s not because it’s hotter that the vines ripen earlier. It’s partly because of the viticulture that we have; we have a higher palisage – more like 160cm now, so the vines are possibly more liable to hydric stress but the large solar panel can make for easier ripening too. Vines trained like this can de-block very quickly – much more impressively than lower trained vines – so I think we have more maturity of stems too than some who wait 3 weeks more to harvest – and we are all 100% whole cluster here.”
The wines…
One of the greatest cellars of the Côte de Nuits this year!
Was the vines for Passetoutgrains (vineyards in Vosne, Flagey and Gilly), but now VDF, more wc, newer barrels. 60% gamay.
A silky width of aroma – a little compact but invitingly pure. Great shape – luxuriously silky texture – generous and delicious great wine for the label – no discussion!!
2022 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Three parcels around Vosne and Chambolle
Higher toned – it’s a bit more open and complex too. Hmm – direct and energetic – a completely different shape, juicy finishing – less easy and sweet today – give it a bit of time but it will be excellent!
From one parcel in Vosne of that name, opposite the gates of Faiveley’s Clos de Vougeot. The first wine tasted from barrel.
Dark, deeper aromatic. Wide, nicely open with a direct style but still with width – the previous was harder to judge but this a great Bourgogne – wait 2 years and enjoy!
Higher toned more vertical – a structured and still attractive nose. Hmm – that melts wonderfully over the palate – if there’s a hint of strict on the nose this silky wine soon assuages any fear – delicious red berry and a slowly fading acidity – great! – Maybe to bottle before then of the year. Pretty red notes persist in this finish…
2022 Gevrey-Chambertin
A tiny reduction adds depth and some darker notes to the nose. More structural wine after the Savigny, no grain but a hint of dryness today – really broad and fine in the middle and finishing flavours – wait 3 years for this then it will be ready and lovely!
2022 Vosne-Romanée Cuvée ‘Quatrain’
2 parcels from north and two from the south of the village.
A wider, red fruit nose. Much more open, more silk than velour – there’s extra elegance vs the Gevrey and it’s really a mouth-filler – but fresh too. The last notes with a hint of tannin, red, pure and delivered in small, quite wide waves – simply lovely!
Below Suchots near the cemetery
More direct, almost cushioned red fruit – that’s very attractive! Modest structure – more obvious architecture – layered flavour – complex too – there are less interesting 1ers for sure – simply excellent wine and potentially a great villages.
From the heart of the village. Pres Folie & Colombière
Here the fruit is darker red, perhaps a faint creamy, lactic halo to it today. More fluid, more direct, more mineral in style today – great texture. More to wait for, there’s less of the fruit today but give it 3+ years – better-still 6-8 and you will be amply rewarded – it’s top!
2022 Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Suchots
A larger nose – quite airy and complex – maybe a hint of gentian on this. In the mouth, it’s similar to the nose with an open, mineral style with a hint of gentian flower which frames the red, mouth-watering fruit. Like the ‘Précolombiere’ to wait for, but here is clearly a lot extra in the finishing flavour – it’s a proper step up here.
Depth and width to this nose – a beauty. Also a stony, direct, mineral wine this year – growing in intensity, finishing with fruit flavour only by wringing out the palate – what a wine – but wait 10 years – bravo!
2022 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Charmes
A good volume of aroma – almost a halo of minerality around this fruit. Lightly reductive, a little more lithe muscle vs the direction of the last – just a mm of fat – but only 1! But the finish is more of the fruit – ooh – so good!!!
Just three hundred metres from the middle of this parcel to the middle of their Suchots parcel.
Not quite round, not quite direct – a little in the middle – pretty red fruit complexity here. Wonderfully fluid in the mouth – what a range of wines here this year – almost juicy, clean-cut, a mineral style but still with the fruit – a wine that will outlive me – top!
Broad, strong, complex – but clearly not fully open/ready today – slowly a little powdery complexity and interest. It’s the style of the domaine (and the vintage) this year, direct, cool, mineral and fluid – and it’s great – but these are not wines for people looking for ample, oaked wines – they are the essence of their crus and it is a great address in 22…
Separated from the Cras since 2016 – the blend previously called Boudots 😉 Some of vines are from the 1970s – the rest more from the 1950s. It’s sandier soil and there’s less of it vs in the Cras – from a 400-l barrel.
Large scale but with a little reduction today. In 3-4 mins the reduction is gone and there’s darker fruit and some lithe muscle. Fuller, more generous, rounder but still with that core fluidity of the domaines other wines. Finishing round but fresh, saline even – that’s a lovely finish – really a great 1er cru.