Tasted in Gevrey-Chambertin with Sylvie Esmonin, 22 November 2023.
Domaine Sylvie Esmonin
1 Rue Neuve
21220, Gevrey-Chambertin
Tel: +33 3 80 34 36 44
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Sylvie on 2022:
“28 hl/ha in 2022. We were impacted by the giant storm though less than some of our neighbours – the storm came just as the grapes were forming, and perhaps because of that not all reached their normal size. It’s the second time that I saw such a storm, the last time was over 50 years ago and I only remember being happy that I didn’t have to go to school! But I’m still hoping that I won’t be around for a third experience. The year started with a good reserve of water which really helped – I don’t think we ever had water stress in 2022. Harvesting was from the end of August in this vintage and, of course, there won’t be any bottling before Spring next year. There’s been no added sulfur at this stage as I’m a little intolerant! So racking will be done just before the bottling. I used about 50% whole clusters in the wines – even the Bourgogne and that doesn’t usually get much.”
The wines…
A couple of new wines to taste this year. There’s none of these that I wouldn’t be happy to have in my cellar – well done Sylvie!
This from Pressoniers in Gevrey. 0.90 ha – there was a new parcel in 2022 with an additional 0.25 ha – still in Gevrey but closer to the border with Morey St.Denis, which was harvested in the last days of the 2022 campaign.
A width of darker fruit here, lightly peppery. Silky and also direct – ooh that’s one of the best I ever tasted here – bravo!
2022 Cote de Nuits Villages
Domaine parcel in Brochon – 0.72, Vignes Noir and Croix Violette.
A darker, more profound nose of not just fruit but soil and tar too. Broader and more energetic – more intense too – but behind is a texture of silk too. Super finishing – Yes!
Also old vines the second (VV) villages cuvée is actually TVV says Sylvie. Stony here, ‘Which brings a wine with a little more finesse.’
Perfumed but deep – also an earthy aspect that compliments darker red fruit. These wines are showing really well this year – so far. Hmm, such wonderful texture again with a small creamy old-vine finish – but only 60 years
2022 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles-Vignes
Two parcels of vines of approximately 100-years-old.
A small reduction on this wine but still a lovely width and invitation from the (apparently) dark fruit. Even more direct, still silky – only in the middle and finish do I note the velvet a beauty!
2022 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos Prieur
100% whole clusters – will do this cuvée in 2023 too.
More focused red fruit and a little floral too. Delicate, elegant super complex – I love it!
A larger nose – really filling the glass – there’s a hint of reduction, but air brings such a wonderful elegance of aroma. Hmm, the structure is present here, the power more overt too – dark, just a hint of cocoa powder – there’s everything here – and it just keeps on going. That will be grand.
2022 Volnay 1er Santenots
Low down but right next to the Clos de Santenots including a little Santenots du Milieu – so 2 parcels. Had the vines for a long time but only 1-3 barrels, depending on the vintage…
Direct, red fruit, a little saline – the only vine harvested in August – the 31st – Gevrey was on the 1st! Also wide, sweepingly silky too, redder more fizzingly energetic too. Very different finishing – no less a pleasure – it was about ¾ whole cluster here and I love it.