Tasted in Morey St.Denis with Cécile Tremblay, 27 November 2023.
Domaine Cécile Tremblay
8 Rue de Très Girard
21220 Morey-Saint-Denis
Tel: +33 3 45 83 60 08
www.domaine-ceciletremblay.fr
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Cécile on 2023:
“23? Wow! Almost as good, maybe better than 2019! We had to triage, of course, as there was both the dry and the shriveled grapes. I love the salinity in the finish – I don’t think I’ll get to make many vintages like that!”
Cécile on 2022:
“In 2022 I didn’t make as much wine as some. I wasn’t so frosted in 2021 so the volume was relatively stable – the vines had nothing to make up for – but I had a lot new vineyards in 22 – which demanded a lot of time to ‘instal’ a new pruning style. With the new vines everything was almost double – I went from 4 hectares to 7 – so the teams, the buildings – lots of work. So it was a year, almost, of re-installation with all the things that changed in the vintage, including some frustrations. I love the wines but I had so many things going on that I, maybe, haven’t had the time to fully appreciate the wines yet – but I will !!”
The wines…
Not all are great wines – but they are all wines that I wish were in my cellar !!
“I think, probably a Springtime bottling for all of these:”
A blend from Vosne and Chambolle
High tones, some roses and a fine invitation. Wow depth and a texture of velour – really a Bourgogne?!! Bravo!
2022 Morey Saint Denis
There was previously very little of this but that changed to 1.5 hectares in 2022 ‘but all in Très Girard – very practical – it’s all the vines around the house!’ Whole cluster and currently no sulfur but it will receive some before bottling…
Redder fruit and more direct too. The nose hinted at it – the palate confirms it – a more direct and structural wine, no grain though there’s still some tannic dryness. Keep this three years – the finish is strong, intense but complex too.
Multiple parcels – 3 – Fremiers, Au Echanges and Maladières – in the domaine since 2009
Cliché pretty floral notes – what an invitation! Direct like the last but with more comfort – again a texture of velour. You can drink this while waiting for the Morey – super width and really impressive depth to this finishing flavour – a more than excellent villages!
2022 Vosne-Romanée Vieilles-Vignes
From the clay soils…
A broad and quite high-toned width of perfume. Direct again but less furry velvent – this is much more in the direction of silk. Intense, tasty, very long – also for keeping but a little less than the MSD
2022 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Feuselottes
A smaller nose but an aromatic one, indeed perfumed. Here much more mouth-filling volume – growing in both intensity and complexity – that’s really wide and impressive in the finish – it’s a beauty – I love that finish – a great finish actually!!
2022 Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru
1.8 ha of Beaumonts, in this first year. ‘I’ve pulled out an old parcel that had too many missing vines – I also have 0.4 ha of Echezeaux because it had always been previously declared as Beaumonts(!) – so not the right to call it grand cru in 22 so it’s assembled in this. In 23 I will possibly/probably not blend the 2 Echézeaux parcels.’
Ooh – that’s a broad nose – and of Vosne depth too – that’s lovely. Ultra-silky, only growing a hint of velour in the finish – long and mineral. Simply beautiful wine…
2022 Vosne-Romanée 1er Beaumonts
The domaine’s original Beaumonts, higher on the hill and more east-facing, near Brulées
A smaller, more direct nose today – more saline and a little smoky. Hmm – very different in mouth-filling style, also smoky, more depth of perfume and generosity – really very different – yep, but much less so in 23 – after 2 years of the same viticulture, it will be blended with the previous wine.
2022 Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Rouges
A rarely spotted Cru – there are not many producers – Roblet-Marchand, based in Chambolle, have the lion’s share – 2ha.
A little more direct, darker red fruit. Broad, with a little cushioning, then it melts over the palate. Hmm, that’s a really lovely finishing flavour – a little marzipan/frangipan style in this finish – which I don’t generally like – but here I do 😊Super!
New here is also some Clos de Vougeot – but it was too reduced to taste…
2022 Echézeaux du Dessus
A hint of smoke and a lot of complexity in this less voluminous nose – it’s very, very, attractive. Hmm – a little more evident structure – beautifully mouth-filling, So, so long – a great, great reminder of this wine…
From Gemeaux
A much broader width of floral perfume – that’s another great invitation – you ‘almost’ don’t need to drink it! Clean and direct, almost incisive. Complex over the palate – there are tons of fireworks over the palate too – fading to a narrower style than the Echézeaux but not shorter and it’s beautifully floral – that’s simply a great wine.