Tasted in Vosne-Romanée with Mathilde Grivot, 23 November 2023.
Domaine Jean Grivot
6 Rue de la Croix Rameau
21700 Vosne-Romanée
Tel: +33 3 80 61 05 95
Domaine’s Instagram
More reports with Domaine Jean Grivot
The domaine was receiving so many visitors to taste their wines that they were taking turns as to who would present them. In my case, I got Etienne – who had a fight with a car the day before – so chose his ‘best side’ for the the profile picture!
Etienne on 2022:
“After 3 successive very small vintages we’ve gone back to a more generous production and had to make a green harvest – it would have been a big mistake to try and make up for lost volume. 2022 seems a classic vintage style, maybe not a great ageing vintage – I think it can be drunk rather young like 11, 14 and 17 to which I could compare it to, due to being very open quite young. I think we take a lot of pleasure from these vintages – we have a lovely resonance. It would also have been a mistake to start harvesting earlier because freshness is not enough, you need maturity which brings better extraction – so we don’t have to do anything ‘extra’ after – we are not always searching for ‘more’.”
The wines…
Super wines if not wines from another universe as last year. Still, there are many great wines that will be worth a special search to find – ignoring their prices of course!
Bottling will be in February to April, depending on the phase of the moon:
2022 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Older vines in the commune of Vosne – Luitinières
A large-scale nose of darker red berry fruit. Supple, concentrated – it’s got a little cushion and a generous concentration. A little finishing bitters brings a counterpoint to the energy in this finish.
2022 Nuits St.Georges Charmois
‘A later developing place’
A little reduction but here is a silky aromatic impression. Silky in the mouth too – great texture, more intense, concentrated like the Bourgogne. But long and very accessible.
2022 Chambolle-Musigny Combe d’Orveaux
Directly opening with cliche, open, floral aromatics. Open, slightly saline but also floral with a tiny frame of grainless tannin. Delicious wine.
2022 Vosne-Romanée
10 different parcels…
A broad, cushioned and floral nose – yes! I love this breadth of shimmering finishing tannin – ‘Yes the resonance’ says Etienne. Super villages.
So broad, so floral – so great!! Wide, some sucrosity but wonderfully complex. Wow, wine!
2022 Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Pruliers
A lovely red cherry-berry nose – love the clarity here. Direct, silky a little muscle too – but wiry and strong like a rock climber. A beauty and a very different character to the Roncières.
2022 Nuits St.Georges 1er Aux Boudots
This nose is like a blend of the structure and flowers of the last two – beautiful. Clean sinuous, polished fruit flavour here. With intensity too but at the same time a breadth – super concentration. Simply excellent!
Suggestive of beauty – what a beautiful nose. Here is more structure than Boudots rather an architecture with precision – it’s clearly a great 1er!
A larger, more concentrated nose, extra red berry, not the flowers of the last. So silky – a sensuous wine. Slowly widening over the palate with a faint salinity – yes!
Some reduction. But in the mouth, there is the more structural impression given by Beaumonts but also the more sensual depth of the Suchots. Narrower and more mineral but just as long. Bravo!
2022 Clos de Vougeot
1.86 ha from the road right up to the vines of Family Labet – 3 different soil types. ‘It’s not really a vigorous cuvée – our obsession is trying to save the suavity of the tannins – we just try to give the wine a good education!’
A fresher width of open red fruit. Structural but not hard. Waves of concentrated but still fresh fruit spread over the palate – velvet!
2022 Echezeaux
Earth and almonds add complexity to this red fruit. Direct wine, cool fruit with a linearity that’s taking you somewhere, then back to really silky tannin here. For keeping, obviously, but thats a beauty
Richebourg normally 5.5 barrels but only 2 in 21. They are in the third place, nearest to Romanée-Conti – first is DRC themselves, then Thibault Liger-Belair, then Grivot.
Ooh – what high tones and what depth – no reduction augmenting the depth here, just the place. Volume, cool fruit again but more spherical in shape. Sophisticated texture and presence. Great.