Tasted in Morey St.Denis with Alec Seysses, 19 October 2023.
Domaine Dujac
7 Rue de la Bussière
21220 Morey-Saint-Denis
Tel: +33 3 80 34 01 00
www.dujac.com
More reports with Domaine Dujac
Alec on 2022:
“2022 was a great crop – averaging 40 hl/ha – the vines compensating for delivering so little in 2021. The weather was nice, it brought a year that was easier in the vines with clean and ripe grapes. Good volumes – which a lovely change from 2021 – it was a year when the rain came at the right times. We started harvesting on the 28th August with our white parcels. There was a little sorting but for sun-burn rather than rot. We are picking one month earlier than was traditional but also with one degree more of ripeness too – our new cuverie is softer on the extractions – it’s exactly what we need for these warm vintages where the tannins extract so very easily – it makes the investment worthwhile!”
The wines…
Is it just me? I always love their white Monts Louisants 1er Cru way more than their two Puligny 1er crus! But what a great range of reds – so many covetable wines – darker fruited than the average – perhaps some of the dark smokiness coming from their barrels. More tannic than the average too – but great wines!
2022 Morey St.Denis Blanc
About 35 year-old vines.
Some aromatic depth and freshness here – but width too. Fine, shimmering shape in the mouth. Long, slightly savoury flavour. Very good and finishing with a veneer of grainless tannin.
Vines planted in 1997
More freshness and citrus complexity – this is a lovely invitation! Broad and shimmering over the palate. I’m so often a great fan of this – and this year it’s simply juicy and delicious. I love it – bravo – it’s a great white – not just a great Côte de Nuits white!
2022 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Folatières
‘80% planted in 2013 & 2014 – part planted at 11k density – in two parcels in the mid-slope.‘
A fine and pure line of aromatic fruit. Lovely width and it brings a silky fluid impression over the palate. Lovely layered flavour. Delicious.
2022 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Combettes
Vines more than 50 years old but don’t have the planting date records, usually with lots of ‘shot’ berries (millerandes).
Vibrancy of aroma but here with more depth and probably density too. Broad and slightly contemplative in style – concentrated, almost stony finishing – cherry-stone style. Impressive.
Les Reds:
Starting with their contract range of wines:
2022 Gevrey-Chambertin
Made with about 80% whole clusters, not yet racked
A vibration of dark minerality here. Clean, quite fluid, melting and almost mineral in style. The middle and finishing flavours are broad, clean and absolutely delicious.
2022 Morey St.Denis
A finer, more airy, nose with sweeter red fruits. In the mouth we have great architecture and a more serious and juicy flavour vs the Gevrey. Also delicious but showing as clearly different – here with a super burst of finishing flavour. Super!
2022 Chambolle-Musigny
Made from 3 parcels.
Cliché pretty Chambolle nose – floral, delicately perfumed. A hint more calm to these first flavours, layered and a little richer but what a beauty – this my favourite of these three today.
The domaine wines:
Also made from 3 different plots
A little deeper colour. Darker fruit – more precision. A more structural/architectural shape versus the previous wine. Beautifully shaped, subtly, still firmly tannic but without grain. That’s simply a beautiful thing – potentially a great villages – I love this finish.
This sample has a little cushioned smokiness from the stems and likely the barrel too. Almost a reductive smokiness in the flavours but the shape and fluidity of this wine over the palate is absolutely first class – it’s wonderful.
2022 Morey St.Denis 1er Cru
From 4 different 1ers in 2022
Ooh – a creamy depth to this complex red fruit – a suggestion of gooseberry too – that’s a wonderful invitation to drink. Large scaled, really complex though because of that a little less sense of precision. Supple and wide, lovely…
2022 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Les Combottes
Freshness and purity – lovely dark red fruit. More direct, sinuous and silky – dark fruit, beautifully mobile and precise flavour. The finish radiates out, wider and wider – beautiful! An elegant 1er cru this vintage – very elegant!
2022 Charmes-Chambertin
4 different plots contribute to this – Mazoyères and Charmes combined.
A less forward width of attractive perfume. More juicy and complex – more depth too. The tannin frames the flavours and is just super, super pretty in the finish – a tannin announces itself quite late, and holds with a little dryness… Lovely wine.
2022 Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Beaumonts
2/3rds old vines
Completely different – not a large nose but still with a width of darker, spiced fruit. Mouth-filling energy. The shape of this is mouth-filling with a frame of tannin that’s more supple than in the finish of the Charmes. Lovely finishing again – these wines are so delicious…
2022 Echézeaux
Darker, smokiness, surely of the barrel. The palate has power despite its openness – structural tannin – drying a little but without grain. The flavour broad and and delicious – a texture from the tannin of fine velour. This finish is properly grand cru…
“From the northern side of the vineyard, and for the detail-conscious, this contains a tiny amount of Les Gaudichots” notes Jeremy. “It’s a vineyard that we have to think has a phenomenal quality possibility, so we always ask ourselves how will we reach that”
Starting with a solid core of dark fruit – slowly becoming more airy in the glass. Fuller than the Echézeaux and more silkily textured – there’s a hint more grain but not a bit drying. Really, really complex in the middle flavours. A wine that needs to open out much more – but what a wine – certainly a great Malconsorts in the making!
Not a large-scale nose today but what precision! The aromas unfold with florals too. I love the architecture of this – such scale, a suggestion of minerality at the base of these flavours too. Widening with juicy dark fruit. Great finishing! I simply love this – I’d be tempted to drink a glass this evening but it could be a great companion for the next 50 years!
2022 Clos St.Denis
One of the largest owners here with 1.4 ha.
A more vertical nose with a faint spice here. Supple and fluid but the wine gains shape and weight in the mouth – always remaining very mouth-watering – almost juicy. Holding wonderfully long…
In two parcels.
More breadth of aroma than the CSD today – silken red and black fruit notes. Ooh – this is a beauty over the palate – architectural, faintly tannic but not drying – simply top-level clarity to this fruit flavour. Wow length – great wine.
There is one response to “Dujac – 2022”
Hi Bill, in the Domaines-section you list 2 different Morey St. Dens wines, one marked with blue, the other not. How does one tell the difference between these two bottles? Are they from different lieu dits?
Best regards Lars Simonsen
Dear Lars – thanks for spotting – the difference was my fat fingers with cut and paste! Here is the corrected version! Bestest!
Bill