Tasted with Camille Thiriet in Comblanchien, 29 November 2023.
Maison Camille Thiriet
7 Chemin des Carrières
21700 Comblanchien
Tel: +33 6 08 91 86 83
maisoncamillethiriet.com
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More reports with Camille Thiriet
Camille on 2022:
“In 22 we also had the vines of the new domaine. All the 2022 bottlings have been done and it’s a mix now of domaine and contracts – we went from half a hectare to 6 hectares – that was a real challenge to treat and manage 6 ha in organic fashion – from not very much – but when we compare our grapes to those in some other places we saw the results of our sacrifices – like coming back early from a trip to Italy ‘just’ to make a treatment.”
The wines…
Beautiful wines of both colours – bravo Camille and Matt !!
‘Our cuvée confidential. Always a little skin contact for this wine – the part from Pommard – it’s not enormous but has an effect. Then there’s the parcel in Comblanchien that has a number of cepages that we bottle – the aligoté later harvested here and it’s the time in-between that sees the maceration for the first parcel. 10 months of total elevage but otherwise we don’t make it any differently to our chardonnay.’
A nice vibration of energy here. Direct, beautifully incisive – with tons of small, delicate, complexities – absorbing rather than powerful wine and I love it – almost a little floral in this finish too.
2022 Bourgogne Blanc
‘Again our cuvée confidential – from our contracts – there was previously some Chablis in this mix but no more – this more from Mâcon and Puligny’
Broader, some impression of a granular texture here. More impact, a suggestion of oak, nicely structured and framed with a faint chalky tannin – a beauty!
‘Yes we are making our lives complicated but this is our new domaine Bourgogne – vines between Corgoloin and Comblanchien’
A more cushioned depth to this nose – fleshy and inviting. More mineral and juicy vs the previous – then wide over the palate – that’s a fine and intense line of finishing flavour – such a beautiful finish – simply an excellent Bourgogne, potentially a great one!
A little red:
2022 Bourgogne Rouge En la Place
It could be labelled Cote d’Or but they remembered the declaration as such too late. Same parcel as the last wine – the oldest wines of the domaine – at least 90 years-old and some are over 100. 40% whole clusters used for this. We have simply discovered this parcel as it was sold as grapes before but we love it!
Hmm, the wine is cold but its aroma is growing in the glass – direct, fragrant – floral – it’s gorgeous. There’s a hint of tannin framing the structure and flavour – but what an open, fluid, clean wine of delicious flavour – and not a bit simple. I’d be keeping this a year or two – finishing with a fine juicy and vibrant perfumed red fruit… Beautiful Bourgogne!
260m on the hill.
A beautiful perfume of wc inflected fruit. Clean, almost incisive width of aroma, a small grainless tannin supporting the mouth-watering, practically juicy flavour. Delicate – but strong – a porcelain Chambolle-like structure. I think this a superb bottle.
Direction Magny-Villairs – 315 m – above the ‘Mountain’ – it’s cool but complex – here 100% wc. ‘Of course there are always problems with different parcels – in this case the wild boar come out of the woods to eat these grapes! – And this made with all whole clusters. Part of the vineyard is often in the shade – which works in our favour in such warm years.’
Narrower top notes – still of rose – but much broader depth of aroma – another striking nose. More direct, fluid and certainly silky – that’s directly a great wine. Texturally wonderful, sleek and enthralling. Great wine – bravo!
2022 Côte de Nuits Villages Monopole La Robignotte
‘Just above the cemetery. It’s our vin de garde – the previous owner was always very proud of this. We have drunk the 1947 and 1969 of this from the previous owner and were amazed by the quality. There’s a vein of marne bleu that crosses through this vineyard.’
A less forward nose but of width and depth – perhaps a small reduction here. Larger scale but the fluidity and silk of the previous – mouth-watering, super-complex – more power – I could easily drink that today – but its clearly a wine that will add tons of interest with time.