Tasted in Chambolle-Musigny with Jean Lupatelli, 05 December 2023. Pictured with Jean Luc Pepin (left)
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé
7 Rue Sainte-Barbe
21220 Chambolle-Musigny
Tel: +33 03 80 62 86 25
More reports with Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé
Jean on 2022 & 2023:
“We are very happy with 2022 – I loved the apparent quality of the grapes and for here, there was volume – 30 hl/ha – normally we average 25-27! I think that 2023 and 2022 have some resemblances – early starting, some volume, harvesting one week later in 2023 but both had some challenges – heat and sometimes mildew. 35°C harvesting in 2023, the malos are now underway. At the same time we are now racking the 2022s – putting them into tank. Our 2022 Chambolle, Bonnes-Mares and white Musigny have recently been bottled – the rest will be done in January. The area of Amoureuses stays unplanted for now, we want 5-6 years until the worms carrying various viruses have diminished/died off.”
The wines…
What a run of great wines that this domaine is starting to turn out – they were always great if you had 25 years of patience, now they almost seem great from the start!!
2022 Chambolle-Musigny
Princlally vines in Les Porlottes, 90%, plus small parcels of the 1er crus of Fuées and Baudes
The wine is cold and the nose is quite small – but it’s pure and very inviting. Juicy, almost fluid but with a breadth of delicious flavour. Direct and intense into the finish – a wine of tension! Yum!
2022 Bonnes-Mares
2.8 ha and quite a homogenous soils, charm and finesse comes in one lower part, the structure from the higher part. Made in three cuvees north, middle and south but then blended for this, now bottled, wine.
More direct, finely focused red berry. Super width – this has impact and juicy weight. Very wide and dynamic in the finish – of-course for keeping – other than a bottle or two today – it’s possible – you should be thinking of 15-20 years – not a surprise for Bonnes-Mares!
Have for a while only made three barrels from their 0.6 ha – but after the 2021 harvest, they pulled out nearly 40% of the vines as there was a lot of virus and very little yield – it will be 7-8 years before they replant so more than 10 before the volume starts to recover for this sought-after wine! This blended 1 week ago so is the final cuvée awaiting bottling.
Hmm – so alluring and pure – that’s a great nose. Sweeping gorgeous flavour – of depth – and extension and more growing complexity. A simply grandiose finish – grand vin!
There’s less and less of this; just opposite their Amoureuses – just 0.2 ha of vines from 2007 – so if they don’t replant any more Musigny before 2032 this cuvée will disappear
Ooh – now that’s very open and super inviting with waves of floral perfume. Hmm – but what width over the palate – this can match the Amoureuses for sure – at least the starting and middle flavours – but what of the finish? Actually, this is also a great finish but very slightly behind the Amoureuses – the rest is equal – so great wine also.
A darker, fuller fruit – concentrated but fresh – slowly releasing higher tones. Hmm, this is actually more direct, less broad to start and wonderfully fluid – the finish extra wide and intense with dark chocolate bitters and hyper length, very slowly fading… That’s such a great wine…
2022 Musigny Blanc
The largest parcel is in Petits-Musigny, planted in 1990 – the historic part, high on the hill. Bottled 3 weeks
A strong nose, of width, of herbal complexity and plenty of minerality. Hmm, that’s beautiful in the mouth – melting, juicy, but Perrières-style mineral – and beautifully textured. At this young age it’s possibly the most delicious Blanc that I recall from here.