Tasted in Gilly les Citeaux with Mark Haisma, 17 November 2023.
Mark Haisma
Lot 4, Parc d’Activités “La Petite Champagne”
21640 Gilly les Citeaux
www.markhaisma.co.uk
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More reports with Mark Haisma
Having seen Mark’s Bogan labels I asked if he might pose for his portrait with them – then all his creativity started coming out!
Mark on 2023:
“2023 was looking very grim before the sun came out towards the end of August – nothing had colour and we’d already done a green harvest and later, again some thinning – we actually threw out a third of a crop! But had a full harvest and the late-arriving sun really brought the proper ripeness.”
Mark on 2022:
“2022 follows a little in the style of 2020 – warm years and you’d expect more richness because of that – yet both have clean freshness of style – it’s because the vines are not adapting, they are shutting down to save themselves. And it’s more because of this that the freshness has been preserved.”
As ever – Never a truer word spoken!
The wines…
Honest and to the point – the wines too. There are some seriously great wines here – much as I (always!) love his Caffots, I was completely smitten by the Fonteny!
2022 Côteaux Bourguignons
Fresh, wide – crunchy fruit – about 30% gamay – with a little floral accent. Sweet, freshness, intense and completely delicious.
2022 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
This a domaine wine from Gevrey commune.
A different width of pinot fruit perfume – that’s lovely. Round, fine depth of flavour with the faintest grain of tannin. Delicious – again…
2022 Pernand-Vergelesses Les Pins
‘It’s my glacial pinot noir’
Airy fresh notes – a hint of pepper too. Extra depth here and extra juiciness – also delicious in a more sweeping style.
2022 Volnay La Cave
Hmm – narrow but fine, darker fruit. Direct, extra depth – powdery, not grained, tannin – wide and super tasting here.
This particular year (like 2021) it’s all domaine fruit but the label remains for the maison as it depends on the year.
Beautifully perfumed, obviously some wc perfume here. Beautifully silky texture too – that’s lovely – the complexity of the fruit and stems. It’s a great ‘generic’ Villages Gevrey!
2022 Gevrey-Chambertin En Pallud
Even more wc perfume – and it’s really a perfume! Mouth-filling – broad, so easy and delicious finishing – ultra-elegant – a hint of reserve today but simply excellent wine…
Two different parcels combined Echezeaux and Chardannes
Much more direct but superbly perfumed. Hmm – that’s beautiful in the mouth – more open and architectural – that’s wonderful villages again – bravo!
2022 Pommard 1er Clos des Arvelets
Again a narrow beam of perfumed aroma – that’s inviting! Hmm, larger scale with more depth of structural tannin – almost no grain but the frame of tannin is deep here – it’s not particularly drying though.
2022 Morey St.Denis 1er Les Chaffots
Here is a very different personality – a vibration of energy – high-toned perfume – almost a suggestion of gentian. Ultra clean, drrect and wonderfully textured. Hyper elegant wine – as are many made by Mark this vintage.
Between Dugat-Py and Bruno Clair – 0.3 ha.
A great nose – such a great nose – both volume and perfume, wc perfume but magically done. Hmm, wide, silken, the intensity growing – but intense is such a hard word for such a wonderfully elegant wine. Such a great wine, very faintly finishing with a dry tannin.
2022 Clos de Vougeot
On the mid-section of the northern Wall – so Chambolle side.
This is really perfumed too but narrower and more direct. Broader, more muscular, the tannins not particularly more – maybe a little in the finale. Beautiful wine.
2022 IGP Shiraz-Gamay
First vintage – traditional rhone-style trellising with a single stake, grown high. 20% gamay in the same vineyard – not co-planted.
Hmm, that’s a bright fruit nose – but from a different world in a slightly inky style. Long and interesting.
2022 Cornas
Darker, concentrated but still with a floral perfume. Very broad in the mouth, dark almost peppery olive skin but still sweet.
Les Whites:
In tank and racked right now but still very low sulfur – pre-bottling:
2022 Bourgogne Aligoté
Nicely vibrant, low sulfur. Open, fleshy fruit. Simply delicious rather than (these days) commonly austere or direct.
2022 Mâcon-Mancey
The first one!
More green citrus aromatics. Hmm, generous but still incisive and clean. Delicious wine.
2022 St.Romain Jarrons
‘I fell out with another grower so now only Jarrons 😊’
Airy, a little wider shape to these aromas. A vibrant energy here – riper fruit that’s still citrus but tending to more golden citrus. A nice rasp of finishing tannin – not quite bitters but it’s a good counterpoint.
2022 Chassagne-Montrachet
3 barrels but one is 1er cru Maltroie!
Hmm – this is pretty and very complex – growing to absolutely beautiful! Direct, nearly chiselled, Really wide finishing. A very above-average Chassagne ‘villages.’
2022 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er En Caradeux
The hill that faces Charlemagne
A much broader nose – more structural wine, but not hard – wonderfully, deliciously, juicy finishing – faint cream in here and with super length.