Tasted in Premeaux with Sylvie Poillot, 23 November 2023.
Domaine de la Vougeraie
Rue de l’Église
Premeaux
21700 Nuits St.Georges
Tel: +33 3 80 62 48 25
www.domainedelavougeraie.com
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More reports with Domaine de la Vougeraie
Sylvie on 2022:
“Happy – a correct volume, not a big one. We started our harvest on the 26th August with the white grand crus of the Côte de Beaune – we finished on the 12th of September. We have, generally, used less new wood for the whole range – now all are under 20% new – we have our own wood coming from the forest of Citeaux – there is a different taste here but one which I think will quickly fade.”
The wines…
One of the greatest ever vintages chez Vougeraie? There are so many wines to love and that are worth a special search to find. There are some oaky wines but if you can wait 5 years, you will hardly notice! Bravo!
Bottled in July. Plenty of grapes from Hautes Côtes and some Bourgogne in Volnay that was once in the Gambal domaine
A generous but finely divided red fruit nose – it’s a lovely invitation to drink. Hmm, direct, cool, but so delicious, long – what a great Bourgogne!
2022 Vougeot Clos du Prieuré
A larger scale nose, slightly structural but a little more perfumed. Extra depth – intensity, yes structure – the barrel flavour is quite visible in the finish so wait a couple of years.
2022 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Clos de la Chapelle Monopole
0.98 ha – the other 3.5 ha is chardonnay – this is the second vintage for these wines.
A finer width – I love this aroma. Direct, chiselled wine, sculptural but smooth – long. I much prefer this to the last today – no obvious oak ‘extras’ here.
2022 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Marconnets
Extra top notes of freshness plus fainter red berry fruit too. Broad, juicy, some structure – the tannin framing the last flavours but with no grain. That will be simply excellent.
2022 Chambolle-Musigny
Some 1ers (2) included – Baudes & Gruenchers – in total 7 parcels.
Nice and airy aromas – wide, almost an impression of silk. Hmm, mouth-filling, super-silky, great structure – a micro-grain of non-drying tannin. A beautiful, still intense yet elegant Chambole – so juicy too – yes!
The young vines now about 10 years old – the rest about 40
Broader, here’s a stronger width of dark fruit notes. Beautiful clarity to this mouth-watering flavour – a fluidity in delivery, the tannin more visible and the finish more intense vs the Chambolle – but still no grain – bravo villages. Perhaps, my reference for Evocelles is found at this domaine!
The Monopoly of the clos here – the middle of Aux Thorey – but really not allowed to write monopole, despite using the label for many years at Rodet… Actually 2 parcels – 3ha – half young (2012) vines the rest 60 years old – the young vines ready to harvest 4 days before the old.
Nicely complex – deep that’s a super nose! Hmm – so open, what a great wine of sweeping impressive flavours – yes!
A more comfortable and rounded red fruit nose. Hmm, here is more of the flavour of more Cras than the the flavour of new oak – mouth-filling, generous but still taut and impressive – grand Vin always at this address!
2022 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Bel Air
A direct but ultra-classy nose – elegant and dark – yes! Very mineral note growing broader as the flavours melt over the palate – I love Bel Air and I love this – suddenly broad in the finish – cocoa powder!
Very pure, airy with flowers, maybe a mineral note too, certainly it’s very crystalline. Broad, ultra silky – wonderful texture here – with some saline complexity to add to the rest of this complexity – that’s a great Corton – to drink now or keep 40 years!
The small parcel at the bottom ex-Ponelle which is destemmed but there’s also a much larger section in the middle which provides the whole clusters, it completes the 1.5 ha for this cuvée.
Hmm – a little more vertical and with super freshness too. Wow – saline, fluid, melting – ultimately fresh too – as far from an austere CV as you can get – yet – such ageworthy structure too – I’d still drink the Clos du Roi before – maybe an hour before!
2022 Bonnes-Mares
From Chambolle-side, right on the border with Morey… “You can’t miss it, it’s that hole in the ground with the sign, plus another higher parcel.”
Extra width – of course the last was much more vertical – extra complexity with wc rose too. Large scale but a wine that melts and finishes so elegantly – it could be a Chambolle. What a beauty!
124 years old vines in this vintage – more than half of the original plantation.
Extra breadth again – slightly more granular (pixellated) complexity. Luxuriously wide, textured a wine to sink into and lose yourself – such a great finish too – grand, grand Charmes!
Two tiny parcels – a good year brings 3 barrels.
A nose that starts narrow and just widens and widens – more like the experience of a wine on the palate – calm but ultra! Clean, structured wine – chiselled but ultra complex – it’s magic – and it’s here. Even if you no-longer have it in your mouth, it’s still in your mouth! Bravo!
The Whites:
2022 Bourgogne Chardonnay Terres de Famille
Parcels in the Hautes Côtes and Volnay
Broad, some aromatic rigour her – still, very aromatic. Round, generous, not my favourite flavour as the citrus has a more exotic profile but this is a crowd-pleaser I think it’s very good.
2022 Vougeot Clos de la Prieuré
More direct with fresher citrus – yes – more my style. Broad, super energy – juicy middle flavours – and a delicious mouth-watering finale. Yes!
2022 Puligny-Montrachet
From the usual 3 parcels.
Hmm – fresh and broad – a little generosity to these aromas but not really exotic, just a little oak. Yes, mineral wine, growing ever-more mouth-watering. The middle and finish are full of barrel references – I’d wait 2-3 years – but broad and quite attractively flavoured.
2022 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Morgeot Clos de la Chapelle
Second vintage – the 3.5 ha of chardonnay.
A nose with a more fleshy depth. Hmm, this is more direct and cool-fruited than the Puligny, delicate but still strong – a fine texture and a melting citrus width of complexity to finish. That’s a simply excellent wine – and so very long – the oak is well absorbed here!
2022 Vougeot 1er Clos Blanc de Vougeot
Always 3 harvests here – top, middle and then the bottom comes last.
Almost a golden style to this citrus fruit – an even more direct and linear – nose. Hmm, there’s a hint of the rigour of the first white but this melts over the palate and is so fluid in style – beautifully textured. I’d be keeping it 5 years to start with – And I know it will outlive me – corks allowing…
Two parcels – En and La – with 4-5 days difference for harvesting.
Deep and broad – a little creamy generosity here. Hmm – clean attack, chiselled but still melting in terms of flavour – plenty of oak – but differently flavoured to the reds. Ultra-long. That’s a fabulously structured wine – it will be great and I’d be waiting at least 5 years again to minimise the barrel references!
2022 Bâtard-Montrachet
Three parcels, totalling 0.38 ha
Vibrant. Wide but still direct and fresh. So large – almost panoramic in shape. Wow – a cascade of finishing flavour – and it seems to go on and on – great wine and simply excellent Batard!
Not the same rows as the Batard but older vines
A smaller nose but with great precision. Extra cut, extra mineral, more linear – wow! How can it be better? So intense yet still elegant – I wouldn’t go as far as to say delicate – but what a wine – bravo!
A fine width, more agrume than the previous wines, maybe with a hint of orange flesh too. Very silky, melting but with the cool structure of Chevalier. A wine that stays true to itself – direct, mouth-watering and long – almost contemplative – rare for Chevalier. Do I like it more than Bienvenues? No – but it’s also great.