Tasted in Morey St.Denis with Cyprien Arlaud, 14 November 2023.
Domaine Arlaud Père et Fils
41 Rue Epernay
21220 Morey St.Denis
Tel: +33 3 80 34 32 65
www.domainearlaud.com
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Cyprien on 2023:
“Yes, it will be very good I think. But it was important to anticipate the amount of the crop! Green harvesting, longer harvesting, a bigger team, good triage – all made a difference in 2023.”
Cyprien on 2022:
“Despite the sun and the warmth these are very Burgundian wines – we were apprenticed with the previous warm vintages! I think the vines, the yeasts and the bacterias have adapted to this current style and we are returning to more balanced and precise wines in warm vintages. I prefer cooler vintages but I’m delighted with what we have in 2022. The same as with 23 – it’s about adaptation… We started harvesting 29 August so we were early but compared to 2020 there’s a balance and texture that has been visible in the wines since the start – we had to wait much longer to see these things in 2020. I think that 2019 is magic but these wines are close…”
The wines…
A lovely range from Cyprien – and watch out for the great wines too – at (almost!) all levels!
Bottling is planned for the Springtime:
2022 Maison Cyprien Arlaud, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits
Made this since 2013, now it’s organic certified, Cyprien’s team do all the treatments and the harvest
A large and quite perfumed nose – mouth-filling and with fine texture – just a hint of velour here. Broad and red finishing with fine length – that’s a simply super Bourgogne!
Usually 35k bottles from the more than 5 ha.
Also quite forward – here with more red fruit emphasis. Extra drive and more direct style, growing wider and juicier in the middle and into the finishing flavours. Beautifully violet perfumed in the finish. Top Bourgogne!
2022 Morey St.Denis
The higher tones are less forward but here is depth of aroma – and very precise too – lovely. Wide, more depth to the flavour and structure. Intense finishing, give it 2 years – this is excellent villages…
2022 Chambolle-Musigny
Normally from 5 parcels, all close to Morey.
Yes! More open and floral top notes. More direct, starting silky becoming more velour textured. Beautiful finishing line and perfume – I love it! But note that this is properly structured wine…
2022 Gevrey-Chambertin
Like the Morey; broader, deeper, fewer high tones. A small reduction but this is mouth-filling and despite obvious structure, there’s practically no tannic grain. Holding a super finish – another to keep 2 years or more it’s a fine villages.
2022 ‘Maison’ Vosne-Romanée Aux Réas
AB – made this since 2013
Clearly, extra aromatic volume here – very classic and attractive Vosne aromatics. Fine shape, quite direct, with beautiful clarity to this red fruit. Love this broad, mouth-watering finish – yes!
2022 Morey St.Denis 1er Millandes
A small but still wide nose – very fine and inviting. A little more architecture and very sophisticated texture. More bursting with finishing flavour – quite perfumed here too – that’s delightful – yum!
2022 Morey St.Denis 1er Blanchards
More vertical, super depth here. More muscular but lithe not a body-builder. Super in the middle – really some energy and long with small waves of flavour fading into the distance – keep this longer – 3-5 years. Super wine!
Here 20 years without interruption using a horse to work the vines…
The best nose so far – forward, complex and full of fruit and perfume. More silk, a little more direct too – a sleek but still concentrated wine. Broad and juicy but not just that – really complex too – my favourite so far!
2022 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Sentiers
Since 1999 this was made separately but before that, it was in the villages.
A little more concentrated and direct aroma but softens with flowers at the edges. Supple, mobile, a little grain of tannin yet classically elegant and red fruited. Lots of finishing dimensions – small fireworks – super wine!
2022 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Les Combottes
One part here is 100-years-old.
Good top notes but here is about the width and depth of the red fruit. Supple and broader vs the Chambolle, more structural too but we’re talking of small differences, this is elegant and complex Gevrey with an exquisitely detailed finish – a great finish!
2022 Charmes-Chambertin
Extra breadth and a faint cushion to this inviting nose. Round, supple, and with plenty of depth to this flavour. Broad and delicious finishing – and very approachable today – it’s delicious.
2022 Clos de la Roche
Ooh – that’s wonderful – what a complexity of aromas – yes! In the mouth too, this vivid complexity is visible in the flavours. Long more open, and perhaps a more mineral finish – not strict but ultra-complex and faintly herbed – like the whole wine – very different – simply excellent.
2022 Echézeaux
A more compact slightly more sullen nose – what couldn’t be after the last! – but it opens with a fine aromatic dimension – this is also super. A different, calmer style, more compact vs the last but not in the context of GCs in general. Gorgeous finishing – as good as the CDR here – a great wine a super GC
A little more direct but concentrated and pure too – that’s a brilliant invitation. More volume but a very open presentation – all is on display here – the texture is wonderful too. Really mineral finishing – the most so far. So very slowly fading. I love it!
From the Chambolle side, including vines in both terres-blanches and terres-rouges. ‘A climat that struggles more than most when the weather is hot and dry. Here we have the best results from ploughing with a horse – we’ve been doing it here for more than 15 years – it allows us to capture late August rains much better than before.’
A vibrant, slightly mineral depth here – more guarded in the higher tones to start but becoming more floral perfumed in the glass. Yes! Broad but fluid – super texture, quite mineral length – a laser line disappearing into the distance – a keeper – maybe 10+ years before the extra interest starts – but I’m interested enough today – bravo!