Tasted in Paris l’Hôpital with Arnaud Mitanchey, 22 October 2021
Domaine Saint Marc
1. Rue de Nolay
71150 Paris l’Hôpital
Tel: +33 3 85 91 13 14
www.saint-marc.fr
More reports with Domaine Saint Marc
Arnaud on 2021:
“The reds were not too bad, indeed fine in the Hautes-Côtes. Santenay was more like 20 hl/ha, maybe 25 hl/ha in the Maranges 1ers but the whites were only between 8-12 hl/ha. Beaune wasn’t bad, with ~35 hl/ha.”
Arnaud on 2020:
“Conversely, the 2020 yields were good in white but not in the reds; I averaged 17 hl/ha across the whole domaine – so that’s actually less than in 2021! I certainly had more in the Hautes Côtes in 21 than 20. The wines are so deeply coloured – practically saturated. For us it’s incredible, these inky colours – we did just some remontage – I hate to think what we’d have had if we’d tried to extract! We did have one red that was harder to ferment – but it came in at 14.4° – otherwise, it was quite an easy year in the cuverie.”
The wines…
My second visit to this domaine – and it just confirms how good the first visit was – a super source of wines from off the beaten track!
DIAM for all here. All the whites are bottled and Arnaud will start on the reds at the end of November – only the first red tasted was already bottled:
2020 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune Rouge Paris 1243
The cuvée name indicates the birth vintage of the village Paris l’Hopital – though it didn’t have ‘hospital’ in the name in those days. 40% tank elevage and no new oak. Vines overlooking Paris l’Hopital
The deep colour of the vintage. Full, powerful nose, just a faint reduction. Mouth-filling, supple – powerful but not heavy. A very faint grain of tannin frames the flavours finishing with plenty of acidity and flavour complexity – that’s a great finish – I’d be tempted to drink this relatively young before the acidity starts to show more but it’s a truly excellent Bourgogne.
A blend of Foulots and Clos Genet – So ‘Fougenet’ – all wood elevage here – 10-15% was new.
Deeply coloured – racked only a week ago. More purity of dark fruit here – that’s very attractive. Extra complexity of fruit flavour – a touch of small tannic grain but no dryness. High-toned flavours like the nose that are attractive and fresh but of very dark fruit. This is simply delicious and highly drinkable – great finishing – just a suggestion of extra barrel complexity today. Excellent, indeed a great wine for a villages.
2020 Santenay Le Chainey
Higher vines with not much soil and a lot of limestone. ‘I don’t blend as the style is very different from this place. The elevage the same as for the last.’
Not the same width of aroma, a hint of spice here. Extra freshness, this is a slightly more direct and energetic wine – sweeping flavours – a little blackcurrant fruit in support. Great finishing – my perfect Santenay would probably be a combination of these two – another excellent wine.
2020 Maranges 1er Fussière
This racked.
The nose is much more guarded – probably the racking. Lovely in the mouth – concentrated yet with an airy style. The finish has a graphite minerality almost tipping over into a little licorice sweetness too. I think that this will be lovely.
2020 Beaune 1er Clos Les Avaux
Half a hectare here in Beaune part, in Champimonts, planted to white too – the first vintage of that is 2020. Back to the 11 October for racking
A fine, quite airy, nose but not showing much below today. That’s a quality fruit – nice, wide – mouth-watering too. Framed with a bit more tannin than most but also a finer grain. Delicious and really super finishing – it needs more time to come together but the parts look excellent.
Villages vines planted in the 1950s – near Rugiens. This still in barrel, not racked.
Black! Starting with a faint barrel reduction and a depth of darker fruit – partlly because of the reduction. Ooh – I like that – powerful but mouth-filling without impact. Concentrated, layered but never heavy. That has super layers of finishing flavour – This could be great villages!
2020 Maranges 1er Clos Roussot
70-year-old vines – ‘they don’t produce a lot but I like the wine – the roots are too close to the surface so I can’t plough otherwise I’d be digging them up.’
Deep colour but not saturated – also not yet racked. Here’s an attractive airy quality for a wine that aromatically isn’t showing a lot today. Gas. Mouth-filling, energetic, a bit of oak-creaminess. Complex, and slowly melting its flavours over the palate. Lots of complexity and it’s long too – I like the shape – this is at least very good, probably excellent wine as it comes together…
Les blancs:
2020 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune Blanc Sous Carrières
There was a small quarry here in Paris l’Hopital between the two wars
An attractive and inviting freshness here. Supple, easy over the palate – a touch of minerality – I’d like a bit more rigour but the flavour is open and very tasty, with plenty of finishing interest. Very good wine.
2020 Santenay St.Jean
A small parcel of .25 ha – part was red but regrafted that part to white. All barrel elevage – 25% is new.
Here’s a bit more aromatic peps – with a little stone-fruit freshness. And hHere is the structure that I like – nice direction, melting with complex fresh flavour. This a wine of both complexity and finesse – excellent wine…
2020 Meursault Sous la Velle
An equal blend of old and younger vines. Often the first place harvested
A narrow wine but one of aromatic depth suggesting some minerality. Yes – fresh, wide, complex – with lovely energy. The middle and finishing flavours are faintly spiced which might have me thinking Meursault – that’s a super villages…
2020 Meursault Bois de Blagny
After the last, this is the vine that’s last harvested – 375m high next to the forest.
Here the nose is a little more open – padded out with attractive white flower perfume. Plenty of volume in the mouth – complexity too. My first thoughts are that I prefer the shape of the last wine but slowly this ingrains a beautiful flavour into the palate – layers of deliciousness – not the freshness you might expect from Blagny but plenty. Easy, contemplative but absolutely delicious and very Meursault.
2020 Beaune 1er Champimonts Blanc
First vintage from young vines
A nice width of freshness here – faintly spiced and herbed – attractive. A herby style to the fruit – a little green fruit. But mineral and with a nice texture. It’s a good start and the first vintage has a tasty wine behind it – decently concentrated and no worries about the freshness. This is good stuff.