Angerville – 2020


Guillaume d'Angerville 2021 Marquis d'AngervilleTasted with Guillaume d’Angerville in Volnay, 23 November 2021.

Domaine Marquis d’Angerville
Rue de Mont
21190 Volnay
Tel: +33 3 80 21 61 75
More reports with Domaine Marquis d’Angerville

Guillaume on 2020:
2020 – somewhere between 2018 and 2019 in terms of our yields – so not high by any stretch of the imagination – but with the added context of 2021, we will need to keep some back so that there’s something to sell in the future. We could have feared for worse with the dryness of the summer. Picking the right harvest date was essential I think – and this will make some differences in styles – in fact I was still on holiday when François called me to say that we should think about going into the vines. We had planned the 25th, and initially decided to bring things forward to the 19th – which was a logistical challenge to get the pickers earlier. But we managed it. For me, 2020 fits with Volnay very well – if I see how the wines have developed in the warm years of 2015 and onwards, it brings me hope, a reassurance that our pinot can adapt to this….

The wines…

In what was, generally, a slightly weaker vintage, I found the 2017 wines here amongst the greatest. In this, clearly greater vintage the wines are also great – that’s an impressive skill to have! Unlike many in the Côte de Beaune, these wines have all the cool class and and fluidity that you can find in the best of the 2020 Côte de Nuits reds – what a great achievement!

2020 Bourgogne Passetoutgrains
This is the only red to have been bottled. ‘These are old domaine vines but my father had put them into a fermage agreement. When the time came, I decided that they should return to the domaine.’
A little floral accent to some tightness of fruit. Direct, ooh – that’s so friendly so fresh, so mouth-watering – a joyous wine- bravo PTG.

2020 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
More open and fresh – a nicely vibrant darker-red fruit here – a fine invitation. Sweeping flavour – growing wider to fill the mouth – delicious fresh flavour that sustains in the finish. Completely delicious with a suggestion of structure too… yum!

2020 Volnay
An extra density of perfume here – that’s a lovely nose. Mobile and energetic over the palate – another wine that brings a mouth-watering, almost juicy joy to this taster. The finish is very impressive and persistent – bravo villages.
2020 Pommard Comme Dessus
An extra notch higher to the aromatic purity – bravo! More intense, more juicy. Another wine that fills me with joy – the acid-fruit balance is just so delicious. A suggestion of extra structure in the finish but hardly a thing to note. Beautiful wine!

2020 Volnay 1er Cru
Has Mitans and Pitures in the blend – completely different terroirs, high and low but a historic cuvée of the domaine.
A fuller, slightly rounder and more textural nose. Fuller in the mouth too – ultra-fine-grained tannin, mouth-watering fruit. Simply an excellent and delicious wine that has a great finish…

2020 Volnay 1er Clos des Angles
More soil here vs Fremiets
A redder width of fruit here. Gorgeous – open, a wine of purity, clarity and fluidity – it’s simply a gorgeous thing. Bravo!
2020 Volnay 1er Fremiets
Here the fruit is darker and modestly padded with a subtle perfume too. Again a wine that’s direct and energetic. A touch more intensity and a little more obvious structure. A wine that deserves a little patience but has everything you could wish to drink today – a dilemma – eh? Potentially another top wine…
2020 Volnay 1er Caillerets
Modest high tones but here the wine has a super depth of aroma – that’s another, very different, beauty. More composed and mouth-filling – a more sophisticated structure – elegant yet with concentration – a great achievement to balance the two. It needs a bit more time for full clarity, I think. It’s on the right road to being a great wine!
2020 Volnay 1er Taillepieds
A lot has been replanted.
An airy width but here is some intensity of aroma too – always the impression of slightly warm, finely divided spice notes from Taillepieds for me – and here it is until a fine perfume looks to mask it, at least in part. Powerful, mouth-filling wine – but there’s no real fat, just a cushioning to the texture – a little plumpness – ultra-fine tannin in support and impressive ease of flavour delivery. Wide and multidimensional finishing – Certainly a great wine too!
2020 Volnay 1er Champans
‘I never know which of these three is higher in the hierarchy – it depends on the vintage – that’s why I price them the same!’ – Guillaume d’Angerville
A more vertical nose – there’s depth and such an impressive wave of top notes – fruit and flowers. Structural and open – love this – then waves of ultra-pure flavour wash over the palate. Great!
2020 Volnay 1er Clos des Ducs
Yes, there is still another level of perfume and complexity – simply a super thing. Here is a wine that marries structure and mouth-watering, almost direct, flavour. Austere is too strong a word, but I’d be waiting longer to drink this wine than the Champans. But the overt complexity is, today, on another level here. A grand vin – bravo!

Les Blancs:
Nothing is bottled – maybe starting in January…

2020 Bourgogne Chardonnay
That’s quite a full and forward nose – some notes of elevage but also of fine, almost grained, fruit. Gassy, but then widening over the palate with an attractive intensity – almost a mirabelle fruit – the bubbles accentuating this, perhaps – I’m almost thinking of a crémant flavour. Long finishing and tasty wine.

2020 Meursault 1er Santenots
The nose also betrays some gas but also a calmer width of faintly spiced aroma. I wait for the gas to fade. This has a beautiful shape – a volume – in the mouth. Open, structural, becoming more generous, texturally. That’s a lovely texture, with somemodest richness but always more than balanced by the mouth-watering energy. The finish has wide ripples of finishing flavour and sustaining a fine length too – that’s a fine glass!

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