Tasted in Marsannay with Philippe Huguenot, 17 November 2021.
Domaine Huguenot Père et Fils
7 Ruelle du Carron
21160 Marsannay-la-Côte
Tel: +33 3 80 52 11 56
www.domainehuguenot.com
More reports for Domaine Huguenot Père et Fils
There are new buildings for a shop with reception and tasting space almost complete here – next year says Philippe!
Philippe on 2021:
“2021 was about half a harvest after a third less in 2020 – there was a bit of hail too around Gevrey. Fortunately we have a nice definition and purity that could recall 2014 or 2017 – of course, not with the density of these 2020s. ”
Philippe on 2020:
“Like 2019 it’s a small volume vintage – exactly the same yield on average as 2019. Only 25-30 hl/ha in the reds and only had occasional rains of 5mm or so – and in the summer that’s nothing – it’s gone… There was a bit more chardonnay but a bit less pinot – the reverse of 2019. Both vintages had very little rain and a lot of heat but they are still different vintages; a bit more sunny wines in 2019 but both have good acidity – there’s more acidity in 2020. I think it’s a lovely year.”
The wines…
2020 is a very good vintage here – but 2019 was a great one.
Whites were recently racked, though for the full range probably no bottling until March or April:
2020 Marsannay ‘Collection’ Blanc
An assembly of multiple parcels, on oolite blanc soils.
Ripe citrus here, almost tending to lime. Mouthfilling, richness but balanced with its mouthwatering style. A touch of finishing tannin.
2020 Fixin Blanc d’Argiles
This from three parcels in Fixin and as the name suggests with lots of clay in the soil.
Less weight of aroma but today more precision. Vibrantly energetic this one with quite some intensity to the flavour. Citric acidity balancing quite some concentration. Finishing nicely clean and again a little tannic. Lovely.
Les Reds:
All are in tank now, finished this work just a couple of weeks before.
2020 Bourgogne Cote d’Or
Vines in the commune of Marsannay – ‘from the rosé section but we don’t make rosé!’ 2 parcels.
Hmm – a small cushion of texture and oak to this forward and fruity nose. Impressive concentration for the label, round, slowly mouthwatering, redder fruit. Small waves of finishing flavour. Easy, very well made Bourgogne – yum!
2020 Marsannay Héritage
The biggest cuvée of the domaine – about 4 hectares worth with multiple soil types. An assembly of multiple parcels mainly in the middle of Marsannay-La-Côte – ‘just one in the south the rest all central – About 40-45-year-old vines.’
A fresher width of aroma, faintly spiced. Good attack – there’s concentration here too – also with a fine mouth-watering style that goes long in the finish. Darker fruit. Again very tasty wine.
2020 Marsannay La Montagne
White oolite with a bit more friable soil. ‘A cuvée that evolves every year – I replanted a small part – maybe this year the first inclusion – but I think it gains in precision each year.’ There are normally 5 parts to the cuvée though one was replanted after the frost of 2016.
Here with higher tones over a tighter base of fruit. Wider and more intense – almost mouth-puckering with the acidity. Clearly a mouth-watering wine, with a frame of slightly drier tannin – but no grain. Keep this a little while – the energy and flavour are very good.
2020 Marsannay Les Champs Perdrix
Another type of soil – Premeaux/Comblanchien limestone. 2.5 ha in the south of the appellation close to Comblanchien/Fixin. ‘It’s a more airy style of wine from here.’
Here’s a nose that welcomes you with open arms – super depth of aroma too. More mobile, similar energy but silkier than the previous wine. Vibrant finishing, slightly saline. Easier to approach and really lovely clarity of flavour. Very good wine.
2020 Marsannay Charmes au Pretre
Vines here of up to 80 years old. Same type of soil/limestone but mid-slope with a bit more marne so less altitude than the last.
An airy width, quite perfumed and wide. Fuller than the last but with similarly super texture – only slowly does some tannin make itself known, drying a little, but it has no grain – it will fade away over the next 18-24 months. The finish is very tasty – that’s lovely, still accented by the structural dryness. Another very good wine…
2020 Fixin Terre Brune
Multiple parcels with similar soils – plenty of clay.
The fruit’s different here – redder – some crushed strawberry in style. Round, mouth-filling wine – concentration balanced by the freshness but not an overtly structured or tannic wine. This I like a lot – the finishing flavour almost juicy. Very good again!
2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Crais
There’s some elegance to this nose & it’s quite perfumed in style. Vibrant, more mineral style of clarity and direction – and very mouth-watering, almost saline. Energetic and delicious. That’s super.
2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes
Two parcels in Les Champs, more clay in this area.
A nose of depth, fine, slightly darker fruit – this nose implies silk. Mouth-filling but more open – really mouth-watering. Redder finishing fruit, a little tannin too – more structural – that’s a very good wine.
2020 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Fontenay
Now we’re talking – that’s a great nose – a width of silky perfume, more than accented with florals. Now we’re talking here too – open, mouth-filling with an energetic easy and melting purity of flavour. A simply excellent wine – the finish a long vibration of flavour!
2020 Charmes-Chambertin
A parcel of Charmes on the northern edge of the Charmes climat, close to Griotte. Not much soil here.
Also quite some aromatic depth – a vibration of fruit and more mineral aspects. Fresh and quite structured for a Charmes – similarities to the last wine – modestly tannic but with showing much if any grain. Only in the finish do you see something extra vs Fontenay and here there’s plenty of extra flavour dimension. A super wine – very good Charmes.