Tasted in Nuits St.Georges with Grégory Patriat, 15 December 2021.
Jean-Claude Boisset
5 Quai Dumorey
21700 Nuits St.Georges
Tel: +33 3 80 62 61 61
www.boisset.fr
More reports with Maison Jean-Claude Boisset
Grégory on 2020:
“I’m just starting to bottle the reds from 2020, nothing with the whites yet. It’s a vintage that started easier than it ended. It’s my 20th vintage at JCB and the hardest; with no sulfur vinifications at 14°, sometimes a bit more than 14°, I had to make 25 pied de cuvées as it was really difficult to finish many fermentations – I’ve never been stressed like this before – you accept that the malos are done quickly if you don’t use sulfur – but I sometimes felt that I was losing control! Because of that I lightly sulfured some of my 21s to regain again my confidence. The whites were not easy too but certainly easier than the reds! I’m happy with the results but I don’t want to do it like that again!”
The wines…
Multiple wines are worth a special search from here – and the pricing is usually keen too!
1902 the original planting by the grandfather of the current owner – 65% of the original vines are still in place.
Broad, graphite minerality, dark fruit – highly attractive. Round, warm, delicious fruit – real energy too. Long, almost smoky finishing. That’s a great Chorey!
2020 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Peuillets
This bottled, last week.
That’s really perfumed and showcasing its 50% wc much more than the Chorey. Bright, nicely intense, full of energy too. Just a deliciously mouth-watering wine.
2020 Ladoix 1er Les Hautes Murottes
Still, probably, the only producer of this.
Hmm – that’s really perfumed. More direct, structured wine – open and fluid flavours. A beauty, and great finishing too!
‘This place would have produced meagre wines more than 10 years ago but today…’
Beaune side, faintly reductive but with super clarity of fruit. Ooh, that’s a supple, super-textured wine. Still a little reductive but that’s a great wine!
Next to Domaine Chevalier’s Volazières, under Prieur’s Corton Bressandes
A more vibrant depth of fruit, red style. Cool, direct, super in the mouth – almost dynamic wine – bravo!
2020 Gevrey-Chambertin
Bottled yesterday, vines next to Justice
That’s a super nose – fully open, cool, pure and with fine energy. Really wide, vibrant again. The cool fruit meting juicily over the palate. Such a moreish wine. The finish with a little drying phenolic texture but no grain. Simply delicious.
Two parcels assembled.
That’s a super nose – not the biggest but with wonderful clarity and spicy complexity – yes! Cool, wide, classy wine – really mouth-watering and more mineral than the previous wines too. I think a great villages again.
2020 Nuits St.Georges 1er Aux Chaniots
Like the last – bottling will be tomorrow.
An extra width of freshness here – lovely freshness. The structure is a little more evident here – as it should be – but what extra depth and cool complexity. Open and beautiful finishing – that’s excellent!
2020 Chambolle-Musigny
Also bottled but this time 2 months ago. From higher in the village – 4 parcels for 8 barrels.
Broad, open, complex, still a little reduced. Round but still freshly structured, narrow in the middle then melting and widening in the finish – a lovely, slightly mineral finish. Very lovely…
Ooh – that’s a really beautiful nose – silky, complex and inviting – bravo! Mineral, airy but still with concentration – more intensity. Absolutely beautiful – bravo!
That’s also lovely – more depth and clarity of fruit – different but also very inviting, the perfume mounts here – that’s really impressive. More brute than the Echanges but the Chambolle equivalent – which is not so rustic! Palate staining flavour in the finish. That’s another great wine.
2020 Beaune 1er Grèves
‘From high. ‘It’s a wine that I just can’t domesticate!’ This bottled 2 months
Directly opened, cold, a bit lactic but this grows and grows in the glass. Really big in the mouth, framed with a small grain of tannin. The finish is super, dark-fruited and haunting. Carafe!
2020 Corton-Renardes
The 4th vintage for this. Bottled yesterday – from 2 parcels.
Such an elegant perfume – this could be Chambolle. Open, elegant, structured but fluid, cool fruit notes that grow in intensity. Gorgeous finishing – hyper-elegant, beautiful wine!
2020 Charmes-Chambertin
First time here since 2007.
A lovely breadth of aroma with just a touch of richness – lovely. Mouth-filling, I like. This is more structural than a more typical easier and rich Charmes – because of that I like it a lot. That’s a super wine.
More elevage needed here says Greg.
Powdery (parma-)violets aroma today – that’s very attractive. I like the shape of this – it recalls the last, or even a Clos de Vougeot but here is such a super, mouth-watering wine. It may not be ready – but it is already showing greatness.
The whites:
2020 Monthelie Blanc
A staple here for a number of years but then they lost the contract. Here’s the second vintage with a new provider.
A big and exciting nose, ripe citrus at the base. Muscular, concentrated but perfectly fresh and even a little mineral. A super start and a zesty finish!
2020 Marsannay Blanc
South of Marsannay in Couchey
That’s got a super depth, slightly aniseed in the mix. Mouthfilling, a little lime-style mouth-watering flavour. Easy finishing, subtly long. A lovely wine…
2020 Santenay 1er Passetemps
‘Never expect minerality or tension here, it’s the Meursault Charmes of Santenay! A lot of clay leads to richness here. Old vines – nearly 60-years-old.
A larger, deeper nose. Some floral aspects and a bit of creamy oak too. Lots of mouth-filling energy here – great shape and lots of concentration. Finishing with minerality and creamy oak – long too. Tasty but I’d be waiting 2-3 years for the oak to fade.
2020 Meursault Limozin
90-100 year-old vines.
Not the deepest nose but a proper width of fine Meursault aroma. Vibrant – a bit of gas helping – but this is open and absolutely attractive flavoured. Finishing more mineral and really wide too. Super villages.
2020 Nuits St.Georges 1er Terres Blanches
All pinot Blanc
Wide, slightly smoky, almost the impression of a red wine. Ooh, but that’s really direct and mineral – that’s got super definition. Really juicy, almost zesty – different and super – it’s delicious too!
An old-vine massale selection, 80-years-old – only 0.20 ha – JCB are the only producers of this wine.
Easy but complex citrus notes – lovely. Direct but growing a fine width too. This has a super middle and finishing zesty finishing citrus. I love!
2020 Corton-Charlemagne
On the Pernand side.
That’s really deep and concentrated – impressive, faintly pineapple fruit. A little soft starting but growing into its structure and becoming ever-more imposing. The middle and finish are of real Charlemagne class – super. A bit more elevage and this will be excellent!