Mark Haisma – 2020


Mark Haisma 2021Tasted in Gilly les Citeaux with Mark Haisma, 16 November 2021.

Mark Haisma
Lot 4, Parc d’Activités “La Petite Champagne”
21640 Gilly les Citeaux
More reports with Mark Haisma

Mark on 2020:
I decided in 2020 to pick it early and pick it fresh. If you did that, I think you will have something stunning – wait too long and you have jam – and some do. I started on the 21st and was finished within a few days. There was some dehydration but the acidity didn’t degrade. I’m looking at vineyards and how I can accentuate the parts that I love the most – unless doing everything exactly the same to show the ground more!

The wines…

Delicious wines, many beautiful wines – some downright great wines!

Nothing bottled as usual, he will be waiting for the start of 2021:

2020 Bourgogne Aligote
From the communes of Volnay and Fixin
Vibrant and delicious. Easy to describe – almost a mint leaf complexity in the end. That’s a completely delicious and very characterful aligoté. Bravo

2020 Pernand-Vergelesses
A new wine, organic
Quite aromatic, slightly reductive. This is full and vibrant, no fat, lovely energy. That’s very long finishing too – delicious wine. Mot overtly PV as I don’t see the reductive style – but completely delicious.

2020 St.Romain
These aromas with more citrus freshness and wider. Mouth-puckering, melting with flavour, super acidity. That’s another simply delicious wine – just a bit acid forward for some consumers, perhaps, but I love it.

2020 St.Romain Les Jarrons
A faint oak spice and rounding of the aromas but there’s a nice pepper-edged citrus. Fine acidity still – here more mineral and saline. Faintly spiced. That’s more complex and fine, even a flash of florals at the end.

2020 Chassagne-Montrachet
A blend of two parcels; one high and one low.
A more compact nose – fine but rather tight. Fuller, incisive, almost a mouth-watering, steely style. Intense finishing.

2020 Meursault Sous la Velle
A simply beautiful nose, with a suggestion of noble reduction and spice – bravo! Mouth-filling but with super energy, growing intense, Long mineral finishing. Not a fat Meursault, but a great one!

2020 St.Aubin 1er Sur Gamay
A more direct yellow citrus note. Vibrant, with width of flavour, rather mineral. Persistent and with a little mineral rigour – so keep it back for a while – you will be rewarded.

2020 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Maltroie
A more vertical nose – and vibrantly fine too. Incisive, so vibrant, brightly acidic – I’m sucking on a lemon here – but I love that. Again acid-a-phobes would be advised to miss this one but I absolutely love it.

Les Reds:

2020 Bogan in Burgundy, Côteaux Bourguignonne
30% gamay – the majority is now farmed here
An accent of reduction here. Wide and fresh, that’s a lovely width of crunchy cherry-red fruit. Delicious.

2020 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
All Côte de Nuits fruit – it did previously have a little Pommard in it too, in earlier vintages. All ‘domaine’ now.
A little reductive to start. Fuller, but still full of acid-led energy. A clarity of intense flavour here – super Bourgogne.

2020 Fixin
Lots of colour. That’s a high-toned nose – quite floral, almost tending to pyrazine. Fuller, more depth, plenty of dryness but no grain to this tannin. Love the finishing energy of this. This is very good.

2020 Gevrey-Chambertin
The blend of own vineyards (the majority) and some bought fruit
A rounder, warmer, sweeter nose – complex and inviting. A little cushion from the concentration- quite an airy style. Mouth-watering and long with some good finishing bitters. Very good.

2020 Gevrey-Chambertin En Pallud
First time with this label.
Ooh – now that’s a beauty, faintly spiced and gorgeous. Direct, silky, still spiced and energetic. I love the line of this wine. That’s a great villages that will repay your patience.

2020 Volnay La Cave
That’s very aromatic – plenty of power and fresh perfume. Elegant but direct, structured but not hard. Almost juicy finishing. Simply excellent.

2020 Chambolle-Musigny Aux Echezeaux
High toned and vibrant, another wine that suggests if not completely delivers a little pyrazine. Super purity, a direct style, a faint frame of tannin. Slowly, beautifully fading – it’s a great finish…

2020 Volnay 1er Frémiets
At the top of the vines
Starting a little reductive becoming wider and bringing an impression of textural interest. Great – that’s got so many dimensions of flavour, some small extra depth of flavour. So persistent and alive. Nearly great wine!

2020 Pommard 1er Clos des Arvelets
That’s a smaller but such a stylish, indeed elegant nose. Super fruit, darker red and quite vibrant. Mobile and melting, super complexity. Excellent wine.

2020 Morey St.Denis 1er Les Chaffots
That’s another very fine nose – a beautiful width of red-fruited complexity (I said beautiful last year too). Extra textural depth, extra concentration. Slowly fading, gorgeously fading.

2020 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Fontenay
Between Dugat-Py and Bruno Clair – a domaine wine – 0.3 ha.
A top-class nose – really – bravo. Impact but never heavy. Mouth-watering with favour. A great wine.

2020 Cornas
This is rather floral perfumed – different flowers of course. So fresh, no fat, so mobile – that’s the finest Cornas I ever tasted from here!

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