de Vogüé – 2020


Jean Lupatelli & Jean Luc Pepin 2021 Domaine Comte Georges de VogüéTasted in Chambolle-Musigny with Jean Lupatelli, 23 November, 2021. Pictured with Jean Luc Pepin (right)

Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé
7 Rue Sainte-Barbe
21220 Chambolle-Musigny
Tel: +33 03 80 62 86 25
More reports with Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé

For such an established domaine as this, the main news is clearly the image – right. After 36 vintages with the domaine, François Millet moved into his retirement phase in 2021 – though he is still active with his two sons.

Taking over the hot-seat is Jean Lupatelli who we have met in these pages in his previous rôle. Jean joined the domaine in April 2021 and worked together with François until he retired at the end of June. The 2020s that we will taste are, of course, the wines made by François which Jean will finish. The first vintage where Jean fermented the wines is 2021. Jean introduced a few changes for the harvest in 2021 – sensible ones, I think – but we can leave those details for next year…

Jean on 2021 & 2020:
2021 could have been worse, we have fewer barrels than in 2020 but not a lot. That said, 2020 was already quite a small vintage – I’ve started with a small one! We will probably bottle the 2020s in the early Spring, there’s anyway an extra month of elevage due to the early harvest of that year.

The wines…

A very impressive set of wines from the domaine this year. They have all the power and concentration to which I’ve become accustomed here but they remain poised, balanced. A number of very great wines. NB: I’m still waiting for my 1998 and 1999 Musigny VV, so with this cuvée you have to be realistic with your timing/patience – as accessible as the recent wines have been…

2020 Chambolle-Musigny
This parcel, was the last harvested, it was done 1st September. Princlally vines in Les Porlottes, 90%, plus small parcels of the 1er crus of Fuées and Baudes
Lots of colour. A nose that’s deep and has a little gooseberry. Flexible, lithe muscle, sleek, still a micro-grain of tannin. Growing in intensity. It’s the style of the domaine, this young density of flavour, but this is ‘bravo’ villages!

2020 Bonnes-Mares
2.8 ha and quite a homogenous soils, charm and finesse comes in one lower part, the structure from the higher part.
A depth, of slightly textured, dark red fruit. Direct – more even than the Chambolle – really intense, mouth-watering dark fruit. Impressive density in the middle, almost tending to licorice in the finish. Impressive and a keeper – don’t think about opening before it’s 10! The last drops on the glass bring a classy floral perfume

2020 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Amoureuses
The top tier is two-thirds of the cuvée, vines from the 60s and 70s
A softer perfume, not quite roses but more in that direction – an extra elegance. Supple, silky, but with impressive depth too. There are many calls on your money for Amoureuses but I wouldn’t be unhappy if this domaine’s wine was the only one in my cellar – and you know how stiff the competition is! Complex and saline finishing – a wine with very well hidden density.
2020 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
A large part of this cuvée was planted in 1996, the next youngest, a smaller parcel is from 2007 so the cuvée will shrink a lot and very soon!
That’s not a full-power nose but it’s a beautiful one with flowers, boiled sweets and sweet gooseberry – yes! Beautiful in the mouth – mouth-filling but ultra-elegant – not dense. There are layers of finely mouth-watering flavour here. An absolute beauty! Grand petit vin!
2020 Musigny Vieilles-Vignes
Again the gooseberry fruit despite the dark background of fruit – an impressive width of clarity here too. The most mouth-filling and intense yet always balanced. Of course, lots acidity but balanced, with some fine-grained tannin – again balanced. Then the length – ah, such clarity of half-mineral flavour. Keep twenty years if you want a really good idea of the potential of Musigny but this could be drunk already, such is the silken texture. Bravo!

2020 Musigny Blanc
The largest parcel is in Petits-Musigny, planted in 1990 – the historic part, high on the hill. This is normally bottled around the same time as the reds.
A deep, dark, vibrant nose – quite mineral too. Hmm, thats an interesting wine; muscular, slow-moving, darkly mineral though showing no obvious reduction. There’s a small fizz of gas, slightly menthol-inflected flavour, mineral and whilst not a powerful finish it’s really very, very long. A wine that impresses on many levels.

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