Dubreuil-Fontaine – 2020


Christine & Cleméntine Gruère-Dubreuil 2021 Domaine Dubreuil-FontaineTasted in Pernand with Christine & Cleméntine Gruère-Dubreuil, 15 December 2021.

Domaine Dubreuil-Fontaine Père et Fils
Rue Rameau
21420 Pernand-Vergelesses
Tel: +33 3 80 21 55 43
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Christine on 2020:
It is such a very nice vintage but it’s different from what we’re supposed to have – in the area it’s the earliest vintage ever, we started about 20 August – so earlier than in 2003 – and we even finished in August too. The reds are deep and rich but they have an interesting freshness so are not heavy. But when we came back from holiday about the 12th we were shocked how dry the vineyards were – parts were losing leaves like in 2003. Of course, the sugar levels are high but the acidities were also good. The whites were similar but with better volumes – the reds were about 40% down but the whites were better.

The wines…

As every year, consistently excellent wines for the vintage.

2020 Bourgogne Notre Dame de Bonne Esperance
Lots of colour, of course, the nose just a little compact and faintly spiced today. Supple, concentrated, growing with dark fruit intensity. Very good…

2020 Pernand-Vergelesses
Three parcels, Noirets, Boutières and one, Les Fichots is 1er cru
More aromatic vibrancy. More open too if less rich, more mobile and energetic. I like this more and it has a super finish too…

2020 Pernand-Vergelesses Clos Berthet
Also open, slightly redder fruit this time. Mouth-filling, more complex – good energy. There’s maybe some wc here? (Yes) It really adds to the perfume. Delicious!

2020 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Vergelesses
Three different parcels.
A much deeper nose – but no reduction – redder, slightly spiced fruit. Wide, open, mobile, complex – that’s a great Vegelesse! Bravo!

2020 Volnay
As always, a high percentage of 1er Cru in this wine.
A fine, pure direct nose – not much width – darker, silky fruit. Wide over the palate – beautiful clarity – today there’s a little grain of tannin but this has a joyous finish. Gorgeous wine.

2020 Pommard
Trois Follots and En Beouf
Narrow high tones but more basso profundo. A little gas, but intense and pure – that’s another super wine – the structure a little more rustic, but it’s Pommard and to balance it’s juicy! Yum!

2020 Aloxe-Corton
A little wider and redder nose. More open and airy – plenty of complexity here, a slightly drying tannin today but there’s no grain and a lovely depth. That’s a super finish – so good again!

2020 Beaune 1er Montrevenots
Not fully ready but this still has an airy, open, aromatic personality. Silky and wide over the palate, almost melting with cool fruit. Very sophisticated. And simply lovely in the mouth. Super wine and with a finish that creeps up on you – and then stays!

2020 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Ile des Vergelesses
Some of the vines here touch on those from the Savigny Vergelesses.
A narrower, deeper nose but with class – that’s really pure and inviting. Really extra mouth-filling too. Framed with some fine tannin, not drying as the Aloxe but still with no grain. Larger-scaled than most then bursting out even wider in the juicy finish. Simply excellent wine.

​2019 Aloxe-Corton 1er Vercots
Broad but fresh, dark fruit with a faint spice. Really mouth-filling, but complex and involving, darker flavours but with fine and mouth-watering style. Again holding a really super finish.

2020 Pommard 1er Les Epenots
Petit plus Grands Epenots
A small nose in volume but finer of line and slightly direct. Large in the mouth – structural, slightly fluid flavour delivery. That’s super and with a top finish.

2020 Corton Perrieres
Bigger, wider nose, almost a little smoky complexity. I like the larger scale and structure here – more open than the line of flavour in the Epenots. Finish a little chalky and mineral. Another super wine.

2020 Corton-Bressandes
This is much wider, cooler and more airy than the Perrières but slowly evolving some floral tones too. Top. Impact, cool fruit, great shape and texture.

2020 Corton Clos du Roi
As so often, quite a relaxed nose – but broad and pure, becoming more floral. Also in the mouth a very relaxed, melting style – showing a more chalky style today. The best finish!

Les Blancs:
DIAM for the Bourgogne and the villages, cork for the 1ers.

2020 Bourgogne Les Crenouilles
Bottled September
A decent nose – open, slightly redolent of the diam. Nice shape in the mouth, lenty of mouth-watering, juicy flavour. Fine texture – carafe today but this is good.

2020 Pernand-Vergelesses
More airy and fresh top notes – no reduction here. Some ripe citrus, a wave of fine mouth-watering flavour. That’s showing really super with zestiness and a small phenolic…

2020 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Sous Frétile
A little fuller and fresher in the width – complex. Larger scale, structural but with a little softness to the frame. Fine and mouth-watering agrumes flavour.

2020 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Clos Berthet
A more direct citrus nose. Also more direct and with a more rigour to the structure – that’s really good. A lovely finishing purity and long too. Super wine – as usual for this cuvée

2020 Corton-Charlemagne
Pernand side
That’s a larger nose, beautifully pure ripe citrus with a growing floral. Large-scaled really mineral, chalky for sure -large-scaled and great wine.

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