Vougeraie – 2020


Sylvie Poillot, 2021 Domaine de la VougeraieTasted in Premeaux with Sylvie Poillot, 04 November, 2021.

Domaine de la Vougeraie
Rue de l’Église
21700 Nuits St.Georges
Tel: +33 3 80 62 48 25
More reports with Domaine de la Vougeraie

Sylvie on 2020:
In 2020, 19th August was our harvest starting point in Pommard with some pinot noir then Corton Clos du Roi. Apart from some young vines, we didn’t really start in the whites for another 4 days – we did finish in September but that was vines in the Hautes Côtes… We ran all the grapes over the triage table, including the whites, and kept some whole clusters for our fermentations…

The wines…

There are some great wines here in 2020 – more the higher wines for the reds – a bit more of a mix for the whites – but all of these are worth a special search…

Bottling: A few will start in December but the reds mainly starting end of March, and whites from the end of April:

2020 Bourgogne Pinot Noir Terre de Famille
This the only wine that’s been bottled at this stage – done in July. Plenty of grapes from Hautes Côtes and some Bourgogne in Volnay that was once in the Gambal domaine
Plenty of colour. A little iron and pretty floral-inflected fruit. Mouth-filling, here is a fine depth of fresh favour, faintly tannic but without dryness. Lots of fading freshness to finish – slightly herbed but there are no wc in this cuvée. This will be a very tasty wine…

2020 Pommard Petits Noizons
80% wc in this one
A very aromatic and perfumed wine. Bigger in the mouth – more structural but also with lots of balanced and freshly mouth-watering flavour. So mouth-watering. Super.

2020 Vougeot Clos de la Vougeraie
Hmm – that’s a really beautiful nose – of wdth, character and invitation. Cool, beautifully textured – wide, very faintly smoky fruit, accented with some salinity too.

2020 Chambolle-Musigny ​
Multiple parcels – 8 – including the 1ers Baudes and Gruenchers which are declassified as they are too small for their own cuvées. 20% whole clusters – done with the 1er cru grapes.
A really elegant nose of some inviting sophistication. Structural, nothing hard, the tannin showing a little more but again with no drying. Slowly, deliciously fading flavour – very moreish.

2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles​
The young vines now about 7-8 years old – the rest about 40 – some whole-clusters from the older vines.
Pepper and perfume – a vertical nose of higher and lower tones but less width. Hmm, the texture is super again, slowly turning to velvet as the tannin begins to show itself – quite a spice style to these flavours – adding complexity. This will be super – and it finishes in such a positive, mouth-watering manner too!

2020 Nuits St.Georges 1er Clos de Thorey
The Monopoly of the clos here – the middle of Aux Thorey – but really not allowed to write monopole, despite using the label for many years at Rodet… This is half old vines.
A core of ripe but still exciting fruit is showcased by this nose. Bright, wide, vibrant. Of course, modestly structural but not a hard Nuits by any means. Finishing really well – growing in explosiveness.

2020 Vougeot 1er Cras
Airy, beautiful red fruit – such an elegant invitation – yes! Mouth-filling, mouth-watering, mineral and saline but there’s also fruit too – a wine that bubbles with ‘extra.’ I have memories of the magnificent 2005 – this not quite to that level (today) but it’s a great Vougeot!

2020 Nuits St.Georges 1er Damodes
80% whole clusters used here.
A very different shape to this nose – there’s depth and a certain silk too. Cool and more direct after the Vougeot. Mouth-watering, faintly tannic textured and mouth-watering again. The finish is the most complex of all so far – simply excellent wine.

2020 Corton Clos du Roi
80-year-old vines with small grapes. Bottled last week.
Perfumed fruit is in ascendent – not the 100% wc. Again, the freshness of cool-fruit – starting as a width and then filling, almost drowning the palate in flavour – but with a special class. That’s not fully demonstrative today – but it will be fully great wine.
2020 Clos de Vougeot
The small parcel at the bottom ex Ponelle which is destemmed but a much large section in the middle which provides the whole clusters, completes 1.5 ha for this cuvée.
Again the freshness of a forward aroma – surprisingly elegant too – it invites very much. Properly structured but never hard. Full of cool freshness and a certain minerality – strict but not hard – just how I like it (no extra questions please…) Simply excellent and possibly great!
2020 Charmes-Chambertin Les Mazoyères
Now 106 years-old vines and it’s only a tiny fraction that have been replaced – about 36 vines!
Wide and beautifully fine of line – that’s not a large volume of aroma but it’s a great aroma. Starting wide and then adding so much depth of flavour as it melts over the palate. Such a weight of finishing flavour too – no surprise that the flavour lasts so long. Nearly every vintage this wine is borderline great, maybe it is properly great this vintage!
2020 Bonnes-Mares
From Chambolle-side, right on the border with Morey…​ “You can’t miss it, it’s that hole in the ground with the sign, plus another higher parcel.” Harvested 29th August
An exciting nose – sauvage – of volume and a certain power – but like so many here, completely inviting/involving. There’s density but a melting character to the flavour that avoids any element of ‘heavy’ – such a sizzling, dynamic, wine. Great wine!
2020 Musigny
All whole cluster. Since 2020 moved from the small caterpillar tractor to using a horse.
A great Musigny blends a massive volume aroma with an ease of delivery that never seems too much – I sense this here. Extra in all directions – even after a great Bonnes-Mares. Ultra wine. Bravo – I can still taste this after the first of the whites that follow!

The Whites:
No whites are bottled yet.

2020 Bourgogne Chardonnay Terres de Famille
Also mainly from the Hautes Côtes but also some white soils near Volnay.
Very different, slightly smoky nose with some sweetness of fruit. Incisive – mineral, slightly reductive flavours but that’s a great Bourgogne – well done!

2020 Vougeot Clos du Prieuré
Also a little smoky with a little more volume to the aroma after the Bourgogne. A little herby extra here but beautifully shaped wine in the mouth – cool flavours, a little mineral. And finely textured. Long – ooh that’s so good.

2020 Beaune Montagne St.Desiré
Also an ex-Gambal vineyard, just above the Clos des Mouches.
Again faintly toasted bread but with good depth to the nose too. So fresh, so mineral, so melting over the palate. Vibrantly finishing. That’s really a fine Beaune Blanc.

2020 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er La Maltroie
Don’t forget that they have the large parcel of Chassagne coming from Magenta in 21.
Extra width and extra depth and lots of extra complexity – that’s a super nose. Mouth-filling – there’s extra here too – a proper step-up. Sinuous, mineral, intense, a richness cut with fine acidity. That’s a simply excellent 1er cru.

2020 Vougeot 1er Clos Blanc de Vougeot ​
Always 3 harvests here – top, middle and then the bottom comes last.
A narrower but deep nose, suggesting a faint reduction in the depth but quite airy overall. Vibrant, I love the energy of this wine – most years too! Growing in finishing intensity and clarity – that’s really a great wine – bravo! Framed with a mild tannin that becomes more visible in the finish.
2020 Le Charlemagne
2 vines – one week difference in harvesting – one Le Charlemagne, the other En Charlemagne. Now labelled since 2013 as ‘Charlemagne,’ the en and le assembled just before bottling.
A little smoky reduction – not as full a nose as the Clos Blanc. Extra width and depth of cooly mineral flavour – the intensity is more too. Here is a crescendo of finishing flavour. Definitely for keeping a while but what a finish! Like a prizefighter this wine!

2020 Bâtard-Montrachet
Three parcels, totalling 0.38 ha
More depth, slightly reductive fireworks and a more creamy coating to the aromas. More direct than the width of the Charlemagne, a little more elegantly structured too – overall a more elegant delivery of similar power to the Charlemagne. Holding such an impressive finish

2020 Bienvenues Bâtard-Montrachet
0.33 ha for this one.
A more attractive finesse in the width of aroma here – more overt charm. The volume is slightly more and delivered in a more mineral and mouth-watering, almost juicy style, a little agrume in this middle flavour and always with plenty, but never too much, energy.

2020 Chevalier-Montrachet
An extra airy width to the top notes of this wine. More up and down impression to the structure here, a slight cushion but then it is structure and freshness all the way. Holding some impressively persistent finishing flavour, this is a wine, like the Charlemagne, for keeping some time – have no shame in sipping the Bâtard while you wait…

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