Truchetet – 2020

17.1.2022billn

Pauline, Julie & Morgan Truchetet 2021Tasted in Premeaux-Prissey with Pauline, Julie & Morgan Truchetet, 27 November, 2018.

Domaine Truchetet
5 rue des Masers
21700 Premeaux-Prissey
Tel: +33 3 80 23 67 92
www.domainetruchetet.fr
More reports with Domaine Truchetet

Since I last visited, there’s been significant work to increase the height of the training and having in a green covering in the vines. They are not working the middle of the rows – there’s a lot of thought going on here on how to make a difference – but they are also sure that they see a difference in the texture of the pulp of the grapes. Then there’s the treatments; more and more, other than copper and sulfur, they are based on plants. “My grandparents had done their work with massale selections so we are doing the same and it means that we do already have some great vines. Even doing some marquettage – otherwise known as provignage or layering – they will see how long it survives…

Morgan on 2021:
We were relatively okay, there wasn’t actually that much frost in our village, that coupled with our later pruning meant that we were not so badly touched. Harvesting was between 26 September to 01 October – but it wasn’t easy to get the full maturity in this vintage. We stayed with the infusion style of vinification but obviously, this took quite a lot longer than in 2020 – we finished barreling only last week! Minus 40% volume.

Morgan on 2020:
Like in 2021 it was about 40% down but really due to the dryness. The wines have been assembled for about 10 days and will now stay in their tanks for the second winter.

Brother and sister Morgan & Julie Truchetet are responsible for the Domaine Truchetet wines. Morgan Truchetet is the label for the contract wines. The labels have been slightly updated too. Additionally, Pauline – Morgan’s wife, will inherit her family domaine and to start, they will buy the grapes and commercialise with a négoce label. There’s more coming in 2023 too – Auxey-Duresses, St.Romain and some Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune.

The wines…

Lots of ideas at this domaine but more importantly many, many really excellent wines – a few great ones too!

Trescasses version of DIAM used here:

2020 Côteaux Bourguignone
About half gamay – this on cordon in a deep and clay-y soil – this had the longest malo of all the wines.
A blend of depth and fresh top notes – that’s nicely pure. Direct and beautifully, vibrantly, energetic. Really an impressively finishing intensity and long-lasting. Yum!

2020 Bourgogne Les Clusere
Near Nuits with clay soil again but more stones here.
Fresh, a little mineral, the fruit more guarded here to start. Wide, again vibrant – a different depth and texture. More width and ease to this finishing flavour.

2020 Bourgogne Les Chaillots Vieilles-Vignes
Largest cuvée of the domaine – again with a lot of clay in the deep soil, red from the iron.
Of course, there’s lots of colour here. Deeper and fuller fruit in the depth. Ooh – yes – again vibrant but with an extra juicy side. The Nuits tannins are modestly more visible but without grain. A wine of power but that’s also completely delicious.

2020 Bourggne Fleur de Pinot
Bottled in September just before the harvest. A mix or Argillères and Chaillots for a no added sulfur cuvée – also none at bottling.
Deeply coloured. Hmm – that’s really not bad – round but clean, dark-fruited. The mouth-filling flavour is more supple and open, quite fruity and lacking no concentration. Only in the finishing flavour do you have the impression of a slightly different flavour profile.

2020 Bourgogne Pinot Noir Vieilles-Vignes
This just bottled a couple of weeks.
A little deeper colour. This a more savoury nose, faintly with licorice. Also in the mouth, a savoury style, but growing in volume and a little sweetness. Very much a flavour of licorice – wide and well textured with fine but ripe tannin. Good length but not really my personal flavour profile…

The next wines are not yet bottled – planning February:

2020 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits La Montagne
Same terroir as the white, above Premeaux at 330 metres – ‘it’s all limestone here.’
A more airy and floral nose – that’s lovely. Also directly juicy, mobile, just so moreish – that’s a great wine!

2020 Côte de Nuits Villages
In Comblanchien. From three parcels, trying some 500-litre barrels for this cuvée
Here the nose starts more compact and there’s a small impression of wc – but there are none. Extra width, similarly juicy – a little more concentrated. The tannin is more visible but with no grain. That’s a very impressive wine.

2020 Côte de Nuits Villages Bonne Menes
More open and fresh, here with some floral accents. A little barrel flavour in the middle but this is a more sophisticated texture, the tannin has a micro-grain but no drying aspects. Very delicious and slowly mouth-watering in the finish. Holding well too. I liked a lot the last wine but this is more sophisticated and simply excellent.

2020 Nuits St.Georges Vieille-Vignes
Charbonniers plus Taupons – together 0.45 ha – one part of Charbonniers almost 100 years old, the Taupons about 70… It was here where they first tried the higher training
A subtle reduction but this is an engrossing nose of darker fruited invitation. Wide, layered, good freshness yet still a contemplative side. A wine with concentration but another that delivers its goods with sophistication – and this is Nuits! Another excellent wine.

A range of contract wines from 3 different suppliers:

2020 Nuits St.Georges Taupons
Below Clos des Forets, the end of the band on the ‘wrong’ side of the road that begins with the 1er Clos des Grand Vignes. About 30% wc in this wine
The wc perfume is directly evident – but it’s well done and inviting. Bright, mouth-filling – full of energy. The texture is fine again. That’s a very long finish – 1er cru level – if you like stems you will love this one – I do!

2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Seuvrées
There’s both depth and freshness but here’s a nose that’s not fully open to start. Lovely impact of mouth-watering flavour. This is an easy but very tasty wine. Very good.

2020 Morey St.Denis
2 parcels – Clos Solon and Bas Chenevery – roughly equal.
More open, and complex nose of freshness with faint spice above supported by plenty of fruit. That sits very well on the palate – mouth-filling but open, melting, slowly mouthwatering. That’s a super wine – really…

2020 Chambolle-Musigny
Les Drazées plus a few rows of Les Herbues
Just the faintest impression of less colour – but marginally. This is fine but just a little compact vs the Morey – quite different in style with its sweetness of dark fruit. More direct, less mouth-filling but wide and with a lovely texture. More mouth-watering – a purer style of darker fruit – different and also delicious. There’s more definition to this wine. Different and a slight preference for me though the nose needs to expand.

2020 Nuits St.Georges 1er Vallerots
Just below the terraces
That’s a lovely freshness of wild strawberry fruit. Pure, cool fruit, fine texture, slowly melting. This is excellent wine and far too easy to drink! Lovely…

Les Whites:

2020 Bourgogne Aligote
Clay soil at the bottom of Premeaux. Two parcels assembled – just under 0.5 ha. This already bottled same time as the Fleur de Pinot
The nose starts full and energetic but with some rigour, slowly easing with air. In the mouth – open, airy, quite mouth filling – almost a quince style to this fruit. Very good finishing – that’s nice – a good wine…

2020 Bourgogne Aligoté Baes
With 7 months of skin contact. This tasted from barrel
This is a more open nose with some floral and herbal hints. Hmm – wide, really interesting, faintly tannic but with a slightly acidulated finishing flavour – wide and tasty. That’s very lovely – an excellent aligoté.

2020 Pinot Blanc
Bottled. Fermented in barrel, partly acacia-wood.
Hmm – that’s a large-scaled nose – almost a smoky, spicy, complexity. Much more direct and mineral than the nose suggests but still with some richness and melting sweetness of fruit. Wider in the finish, slowly fading, slightly contemplative. Absolutely delicious.

2020 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Chardonnay La Montagne
On the plateau above Premeaux after the forest, very little soil, mainly on limestone, bottled at the end of August. Barrels that have a mix of oak and acacia – the new ones. This will be bottled in Dec – 12 months in barrel then (now) in tank
A nose with some direction and yellow, ripe, citrus. Airy, melting, ooh – that’s really lovely over the palate – absolutely delicious – still some accents of the barrel but that’s a great Bourgogne

2020 Pernand-Vergelesses Les Plantes des Champs et Combottes
Bought as must
A deeper nose, ripe again but with freshness and depth. Wide, quite a mineral and mouth-watering style – some depth of flavour, slowly finishing. This needs more elevage it’s not showing the impressive style of the last at this stage but the parts seem good.

2020 Bourgogne Chardonnay
From the Côtes de Couchois
A very different style, slightly apple/oxidative to start. The shape has extra richness but there’s a nice mouth-watering balance to this, slowly lingering. Less my personal favourite style but quite long and tasty.

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